‘67.5 R16 Not Firing - Ignition Electrics?

[itsa68]

This wire likes to break inside the insulation and you would never see it.
When the distributor advance moves the points mounting plate, connection of the wire inside the insulation can be broken intermittently,or completely broken.

Cheers
Ray B.

dizzy wire.jpg

[redroadster]

Did it flood ? Have you pulled all plugs to crank it over.
See if it pushes out fuel..fuel fowled pugs a likely problem.
Spark shrinks quickly with compression and its a high compression engine .( anyone use one of the Perrless brand sparkplug testors that had a coil and a glass window to see the spark as you turn up the air pressure)
gas is fresh ?
I suggest using a dwell meter for setting points .dist shaft play normal?
Centrifical advamce working free.?

[SP3]

Closing the loop on this one and wanted to thank all the contributors for their invaluable help.

Been sorting this project with new ownership but so some of the items replaced where on the list at some point to establish a baseline of what has been addressed just wasn't intending to make these sweeping replacements to correct non-running status but more a good tune-up.

So that real culprit as to why the car would not start once I confirmed continuity to the key ignition components- 12 volts to ballast resistor, coil, points when dizzy was on lobe and ultimely to the plugs was the following:

• In all the attempts to start the car prior to static timing it the car became hydro locked- thanks Ray!! All this unburnt fuel in combustion chamber drained into the pan. I drained out 8 quarts of thin, black, gas smelling oil. I changed oil and filter with intent of flushing motor and changing oil after about 100 miles. In checking recently it still looks clean and fresh on the dipstick so maybe stuff in the various block galleries drained into the pan before I changed out.

• I static timed the engine and put fresh spark plugs in it. It fired right up and then started missing again, only running on a few cylinders. The issues appears to be the carbs need attention. Possible faulty fuel valve, float height off and dialing them in per guide on the Forum here - thanks Linda! I installed a set of test carbs that I adjusted per Keith's tech wiki add and the car is running on all for cylinders and starts easy after doing a final set of timing at 16 degrees. I set the nozzle height to that .087" recommendation but still smells a little rich at tailpipe and when I pulled the plugs after 30 minute highway romp at 70mph they had a grayish film on electrodes that I could wipe off one I tried. No black sooty looking plugs. I was expecting tan color with that highway pace.

• Tying back to another related post on the car dying all of a sudden. The cause there was the known loose wire connection at the Ammeter and on the Starter solenoid. Despite my pulling both connectors off and squeezing with pliers to create a better "bite" on the spade terminal posts on both parts. One would think a connection as critical as those on both would have a Ring connector and securing nut as opposed to friction fit push-on connector.

So kind of went down a rabbit hole with ignition system on initial diagnosis of issue as one plug wire had cracked, dry rotted boot on dizzy cap.

I would say the Fuel system was the smoking gun. Initial observation of fuel filter 75% clogged with rust and sediment. Leaking brass float in front carb and sediment in both fuel bowls and suspected fuel valve and obvious float height off due to sinking float caused overly rich condition causing miss at speed.

Thanks for all the inputs. Still going to run the Points ignition system for the moment based on simplicity and maybe see if I get a performance boost in swapping back in that 1.5 ohm 40,000 volt coil. If thoughts/experience are it will burn-up the points, I will stay with the stock spec replacement coil.

Thanks again!!

784E34CF-56AF-4329-BE54-0B3EAD1CE1A4.jpeg

[Linda]

Thanks for checking back in with a recap. A very useful contribution to the education of all using the forum by tying it all together.
Now for some pics!
Linda

[Gregs672000]

FYI, based on the color of your plugs you are running lean (white insulators). Tan or brown is what you're looking for. Glad you're getting it sorted!

[Linda]

Thinking maybe you should run it a little bit longer to let everything stabilize. I know those are new plugs, which do not look lean to me, the tips appear darkish. After that maybe an adjustment would be warranted. Glad it is running!
Linda

[raylim]

M-
You’re welcome!
It was the sins of the previous owner that decided to have the overflows of the carb bowl hook directly into the crankcase vent hose instead of having it drain to the atmosphere when the needle and seat failed. I too was shocked to see how much fuel was dumped into the crankcase! Looking forward to a future run!
BTW -Love those wheels. Please update with a pic