“Who killed the power?†- Intermittent dead condition
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- Roadster Fanatic
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Re: “Who killed the power?†- Intermittent dead condition
So many items on this one but also meant to show image of one wire possibly being contributory. This was installed during the misfires. The other boots were not in this deteriorated state.
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- Roadster Fanatic
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Re: “Who killed the power?†- Intermittent dead condition
Apologies for delay in responding with outcome on this post. Had several in flight posts and touched on related items there but in case anyone ever searches, good to have specifics to this point reported.
Since initially posting this, I have seen one or two new posts with similar issue. As most have suggested my issue was tied to a loose connector on the white wire on the ammeter and when checked the push-on connector at the starter solenoid, although on there it slid off very easy without feeling of grabbing or friction.
When either of those two connectors comes off all power is gone on the car. What is interesting I had checked the connector on the ammeter, took it off, tried to squeeze the connector with pliers for better bite on the spade terminal on the back of gauge AND it still came off when trying to start car. Someone suggested the voltage running through the wire when starting the car can create inertia to knock connector off the gauge if not a good friction fit. I also observed the plastic sheath over that connector was melted and smoke colored.
I will look to install a new spring-type female connector and plastic insulating sheath on that white wire. Any recommendations for sources to find the female spring crimp-on connector for a 12 gauge wire are welcome.
On the starter solenoid connector I removed the end of the harness that has the 2-wire ring connected wires and push-on wire connector. That push on connector appears to have a spring component to it. I took a small flat blade screw driver and pried up the inside surface of the connector to create a better engagement/friction on the push-on spade terminal on the solenoid.
Since then no issues with dead car situation.
Thanks all for the help.
Since initially posting this, I have seen one or two new posts with similar issue. As most have suggested my issue was tied to a loose connector on the white wire on the ammeter and when checked the push-on connector at the starter solenoid, although on there it slid off very easy without feeling of grabbing or friction.
When either of those two connectors comes off all power is gone on the car. What is interesting I had checked the connector on the ammeter, took it off, tried to squeeze the connector with pliers for better bite on the spade terminal on the back of gauge AND it still came off when trying to start car. Someone suggested the voltage running through the wire when starting the car can create inertia to knock connector off the gauge if not a good friction fit. I also observed the plastic sheath over that connector was melted and smoke colored.
I will look to install a new spring-type female connector and plastic insulating sheath on that white wire. Any recommendations for sources to find the female spring crimp-on connector for a 12 gauge wire are welcome.
On the starter solenoid connector I removed the end of the harness that has the 2-wire ring connected wires and push-on wire connector. That push on connector appears to have a spring component to it. I took a small flat blade screw driver and pried up the inside surface of the connector to create a better engagement/friction on the push-on spade terminal on the solenoid.
Since then no issues with dead car situation.
Thanks all for the help.
- Linda
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Re: “Who killed the power?†- Intermittent dead condition
Recommend the starter harness from Curtis to take care of all the issues with that part.
viewtopic.php?p=265945#p265945
Linda
viewtopic.php?p=265945#p265945
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
- rwmann
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Re: “Who killed the power?†- Intermittent dead condition
On a '68 2000, similar behavior at high rpm was traced to mechanical harmonics causing the externally mounted regulator's current and voltage sensing coil points to bounce, effectively isolating the white power lead connecting voltage regulator to alternator to the #2 and #3 30A and 20A fuses.
- mraitch
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Re: “Who killed the power?†- Intermittent dead condition
Harmonics known impact on headlights.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California