Clutch slave cylinder

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jayedeluxe
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Clutch slave cylinder

Post by jayedeluxe »

Hi all, I'm new to the website. it looks like a great place for info. I've had my 1970 2000 for 35 years here in San Diego and I've had a blast with it. Recently went for a drive, and had the clutch slave cylinder go bad. Never had this issue before, and I'm at a loss. It was leaking/gushing out from under the boot. I noticed there is no return spring, nor is there the nut adjustment nut that screws into the clutch fork. First question, will the clutch work without spring and adjustment nut ? I ask because in looking at the old slave cylinder, it looks like there was never a nut on it, I'm thinking I would see clean threads where it was, and there are no clean threads. I ordered one for a 1970 Datsun truck (apparently identical), hooked it up, but still no spring or adjustment nut (didn't come with it). In trying to bleed the new one, it spews out from under the boot, just like the old one. Any help to steer me in the right direction is much appreciated.
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S Allen
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Re: Clutch slave cylinder

Post by S Allen »

I just put a clutch slave on my rebuilt 5 speed for my 66 stroker project. There should be what they call a ball nut and a locking nut on the slave cylinder rod. There should also be a spring. You remove the spring when you are adjusting the play in the rod with the two nuts. Snug it up to take all the play out and them back off a turn and lock it in place. The reason you are gushing fluid out of the new slave and the old slave is because there is nothing to stop the rod from pushing out when you push on the clutch pedal. Not sure how you would have lost the nuts but the spring can go missing in action when the hole in the clutch arm wears through and the spring comes loose. Surprised your clutch worked at all in that state. I purchased a new slave from Auto-zone as a Duralast part # 10030, with spring hook. I did not have the ball nut so I ordered some locking nuts and regular nuts so I could lock it in place. Not exactly a ball nut but they are rounded and seem to work just fine. They were M8 x 1.25 on my new slave rod. I have extras if you would like them. Dean sells the ball nut but I am happy with the way mine turned out plus I have no idea what threads are on his ball nut. Will final adjust once the tranny is mated to the engine and mounted in the frame. You can buy a spring from here. This one is a roadster spring.

Slave Cylinder Spring


Here is a pic of mine installed.
clutch-slave.jpg
nuts3.jpg



PM me your address if you want the nuts.

Oh and welcome.

Steve
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66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
jayedeluxe
Roadster Nut
Posts: 56
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 3:50 pm
Location: san diego
Model: 2000
Year: High Windshield-68-70

Re: Clutch slave cylinder

Post by jayedeluxe »

So maybe my old slave is still ok and I lost clutch because the nut backed off, then fell off, as well as the spring ? I had no shifting trouble until suddenly no clutch at all. If that nut backs off, would there be shifting trouble, gradually increasing as the nut backs off more ? It looks like I'm missing the clutch fork boot as well.
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S Allen
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Re: Clutch slave cylinder

Post by S Allen »

You are definitely missing the nuts as well as the spring. Datsun Don Rising Sun Racing has the correct 5 speed boot. He is listed in the vendor's section. You can find the boot on Fleabay. Nuts may have back over time and then the spring. Or maybe the other way around. Either way you need them to make it work properly.

S
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
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fj20spl311
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Re: Clutch slave cylinder

Post by fj20spl311 »

I am not 100% sure, but I think the 70 pick-up truck slave cylinder will have 10 mm thread and your 2000 slave cylinder will be 3/8". The hose will thread into the 10 mm fitting, but usually will not seal under pressure. You only need the adjustable push rod if you use a return spring. The clutch master/slave system is a gravity bleed system. If you try to pump bleed the system, its possible to bend the clutch fork.
Phil
67.5 SRL311-00148 Blue (FJ cruiser VOODOO Blue)
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jrusso07
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Re: Clutch slave cylinder

Post by jrusso07 »

I am pretty sure I have used push rods with ball and locking nut, maybe a used spring. Yours for shipping from 14527. PM me if needed
Joe

1969 SRL311 - Solex
1970 SPL311 - U20 mod
1970 SRL311
jayedeluxe
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Re: Clutch slave cylinder

Post by jayedeluxe »

Put it all back together, then bled it. I can see the pushrod moving the clutch fork a good distance when my helper is depressing the pedal. But I get no pressure from the pedal, and it is not disengaging the clutch at all. I've adjusted round nut and locking nut back all the way down and all the way out and get nothing. Suggestions ?
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S Allen
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Re: Clutch slave cylinder

Post by S Allen »

You still have air in the line. The clutch you should be able to gravity bleed.

S
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
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