Brake gurus- can you approve my custom brakes?

[gnoplos]

Alrighty so here’s what I’ve got:
-front brakes are Volvo upgrade
-rear brakes are from an explorer 8.8 axle
-unknown master cylinder with a front and a rear port (this could be stock but I don’t think it is)

Here’s my thought of how to plumb:
-remove stock proportioning valve
-just tee the front portion of the master cylinder to the front brakes
-run an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear

I was gonna run this all in steel because I’m also doing the fuel lines at the same time and would like them to match (copper doesn’t come in 3/8).

Does that all sound like it will work together? Is there any reason to keep the stock prop valve?

[spl310]

That isn't a proportioning valve. It is the switch that senses an imbalance and turns on the brake warning light.

[C.Costine]

I don't know about the 3/8 line. It will hold three times as much fluid as the OEM. Not that brake lines hold all that much anyway, but it could affect application rate.

[eye]

If you don't get the master cylinder diameter to match your caliper pistons you are asking for a very unpleasant experience. I'd do some research on your bore sizes and then talk to someone like Wilwood and get some good advice on master cyl bore sizes. Running 3/8 lines for brakes is dangerous. The brake lines hold a lot of pressure compared to a fuel line that might see 10psi on a good day with a mechanical pump.

Google and Wilwood are your friend.

Just my 2 cents

[gnoplos]

I don't know about the 3/8 line. It will hold three times as much fluid as the OEM. Not that brake lines hold all that much anyway, but it could affect application rate.

No no no the 3/8 is for the fuel lol. I meant that I don’t want copper brake lines and steel fuel lines. Brakes will be 3/16

[redroadster]

Dont know which cyl your calling frt. That goes to rear brakes. The cyl tank near the firewall mounting is for frt.
The rears push fluid before the frt. Does -kinda important. To have it that way .
You might want to run it by the insurance company you have ...Ive checked and the mods they do allow dont cover other manu on other manu.s. ...wildwoods are ? able
That is the1st thing an insurance adjustor would look 4 in a bad accident...gives them a out

And the brake switch on the firewall is there to shut off a frt open line ( if driving down the road and Lfrt. Line blows , now no frt brakes ...the switch has line press. Push a valve to close off the L side so still would have a R frt. brake also works if you still have air in 1 side

[gnoplos]

Dont know which cyl your calling frt. That goes to rear brakes. The cyl tank near the firewall mounting is for frt.
The rears push fluid before the frt. Does -kinda important. To have it that way .
You might want to run it by the insurance company you have ...Ive checked and the mods they do allow dont cover other manu on other manu.s. ...wildwoods are ? able
That is the1st thing an insurance adjustor would look 4 in a bad accident...gives them a out

Yeah the forward-most line says "R" and I believe I can make out an "F" on the closest to the firewall. That's interesting to call insurance, I would have never thought of that.

From the research I've been doing, it sounds like you can do some very complicated algebra to get you in the right ballpark, but there's no way to really hit the nail on the head without just trying it. I'll give my insurance and Wilwood a call in the morning but I think I'm leaning toward my original plan and just doing trial and error.

[redroadster]

Sounds good
I checked mine after a guy in the insurance office asked about mods ...my policy is 7 pages turns out there's a 15 page part to a policy ...that had the mods ...it read air cleaner, muffler, rear exhaust , wheels but with in .5 inch of originals different manuf. Parts that fit your car meaning not GM made for GM. , off brands ok and thats it

[Curtis]

I'll wait for my new Zeus calipers which are now in the testing phase.