redroadster wrote: ↑Thu Mar 19, 2020 7:56 am
pinion pin in the diff. Has spun and starting to sling ?
A guess. That sounds like the drum rubbing way different than a WB starting to go ...but may have rusted the race severely
Those electronic stethascopes are handy at diag noises
Some 50 -65 $ fun to play with too
I think what I'm gonna just end up doing is jacking it up and pulling that axle out. I was contemplating just ordering the parts first, but hate doing that.
There's not been and slippage with power, and there's no changes with any application of brake or e brake.
1968 CJ-5
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600
Just as suspected, I pulled the passenger side axle out and the bearing has chunks of metal inside. Next up us pull the collar off and replace the bearing.
With this fantastic virus hitting the streets, what are my options for removing the collar? I have basic home tools and no press, minimal heat, and nothing that will probably cut through aside from a dremel.
All the parts look great aside form this single bearing. Would you all advise to just order the bearing replacement kit I linked earlier in the thread and replace both bearings and all the seals? My other option at this point is to just replace this one bearing, but if this bearing went bad, it's probably only a matter of time before the other one goes too.
Mike
1968 CJ-5
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600
I have a place about 5 min away that said just bring them in and they shouldn't have any issues with the removal and repressing.
After some thorough reading last night I'm going to remove the collars and potentially the bearings myself, order the new parts, and have the local shop do their thing. I'm doing both sides, cause of Murphy's law of course.
1968 CJ-5
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600
The Neck wrote: ↑Tue Mar 24, 2020 1:12 pm
I have a place about 5 min away that said just bring them in and they shouldn't have any issues with the removal and repressing.
After some thorough reading last night I'm going to remove the collars and potentially the bearings myself, order the new parts, and have the local shop do their thing. I'm doing both sides, cause of Murphy's law of course.
The Neck wrote: ↑Tue Mar 24, 2020 1:12 pm
I have a place about 5 min away that said just bring them in and they shouldn't have any issues with the removal and repressing.
After some thorough reading last night I'm going to remove the collars and potentially the bearings myself, order the new parts, and have the local shop do their thing. I'm doing both sides, cause of Murphy's law of course.
Spoken like a true Allroad owner
I could write a book after having that car for many years. Probably one of the funnest and fastest wagons I've personally driven though. Boy do I miss that V6TT and 6 speed.
1968 CJ-5
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600
You can grind the collar with a 4.5 hand grinder down on 1 side removing all the strength it has ...the kit has a new collar ? I then grind into it creating a lip on each side then a air hammer with chissel.bit going back side to side. If you dont have one usually. 15$ at a shop a mech will do it
Datsun dealer tech 76 to 87
Mitsubishi tech 9 yrs
Volvo, Kia, Toyota too
6 month - Rolls Royce
ASE MASTER TECH 96. - 11
70 SPL 86 Z31 T , Sportster
Machine shop just pressed off the collar which preserved the axle, then put new stuff on. Much safer than taking a chance gouging something.
Linda
My experience from A to Z on rear bearing. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21533
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
