Brake line connection

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Gregs672000
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by Gregs672000 »

Good Lord, I thought I knew every and bolt on my car... even redid the brake lines many years ago, but I must have not gone beyond the engine bay cause I never recall dealing with this part. Considering the above facts, my suggestion is to contact a vendor like Ross at Sports Imports, or Dann at Rallye, or some of the other great vendors (Mike Young for example) who have some parts cars sitting around... good luck!
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roadstermike
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by roadstermike »

Classis Tube now has these for sale. I bought their 67.5 SS brake lines kit and they were incorrect for the half year car. They were really for a 68-70 car even though they say it for a 67.5. So after talking to them, I sent in my brake lines and they corrected their bends for the engine bay. Then when I installed them, I realized they didn't have a solution for their rear connector section that you are referencing. So I sent them my brass fitting and they reproduced it. Their full kit works as it should, just like the original, with exception it bypasses a turn at the rear if I recall correctly, but it works fine (I didn't sent the rear line for them to correct, just the engine bay lines).

Part number BR9216, I talked with Cliff today and that's the number he told me. $5.99 plus shipping. I buying a few extra in case I ever mess with another car or lose one.
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brn2rde
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by brn2rde »

roadstermike wrote: Thu Jun 13, 2019 11:54 am Classis Tube now has these for sale. I bought their 67.5 SS brake lines kit and they were incorrect for the half year car. They were really for a 68-70 car even though they say it for a 67.5. So after talking to them, I sent in my brake lines and they corrected their bends for the engine bay. Then when I installed them, I realized they didn't have a solution for their rear connector section that you are referencing. So I sent them my brass fitting and they reproduced it. Their full kit works as it should, just like the original, with exception it bypasses a turn at the rear if I recall correctly, but it works fine (I didn't sent the rear line for them to correct, just the engine bay lines).

Part number BR9216, I talked with Cliff today and that's the number he told me. $5.99 plus shipping. I buying a few extra in case I ever mess with another car or lose one.
Ding Ding Ding!!!!, we have a winner!. Spoke with Cliff, ordered 3. One to lose, one for the car, one for a phone-a-friend. Couple things to note: Cliff is the only guy that knows they have these available, so you have to talk to him. Price he quoted me was 6.99 each, with a $10 minimum purchase. Thanks everyone, and especially roadstermike! If anything ever deserved to go in the tech wiki, it is this otherwise unobtanium part and info!
1969 1600(daughters build/car)
1967.5 1600(future project)
Just for fun-1949 Chevrolet 2d sedan, 1913 Aussie Model T fire truck, 1948 Jeepster, 1949 Bedford Ute. I might have a car problem...
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notoptoy
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by notoptoy »

Ahhh, now you've gone an ruined my prose. Glad there is a solution! Will add to the Wiki under parts.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

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notoptoy
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by notoptoy »

"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

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brn2rde
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by brn2rde »

datsun ferrule2.JPG
Maybe we jumped the gun on this. Just received the part, but sure does not look right to me, nor can I figure out how it would be used. Female threads on one end, just a blank hole on the other? Thinking they shipped me the wrong part. Will call Cliff tomorrow morning...
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1969 1600(daughters build/car)
1967.5 1600(future project)
Just for fun-1949 Chevrolet 2d sedan, 1913 Aussie Model T fire truck, 1948 Jeepster, 1949 Bedford Ute. I might have a car problem...
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by notoptoy »

Definitely not the elusive Yeti Ferrule.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

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roadstermike
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by roadstermike »

Ha, I received the same part. I need to call Cliff tomorrow as well. They definitely have the "yeti ferrule". I guess no one in the parts room knows about it or what it looks like, except Cliff. LOL.
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by C.Costine »

brn2rde wrote: Mon Jun 17, 2019 5:12 pm datsun ferrule2.JPGMaybe we jumped the gun on this. Just received the part, but sure does not look right to me, nor can I figure out how it would be used. Female threads on one end, just a blank hole on the other? Thinking they shipped me the wrong part. Will call Cliff tomorrow morning...
Those are the OEM fitting for the junction. Mine had no sleeve when I took them apart. I was installing new lines and I made double flare on one side and a bubble flare on the other and they went together nicely and don't leak.
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brn2rde
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by brn2rde »

Spoke with Cliff. He now knows the packing clowns are sending the wrong item, and he is correcting it. Looks like we are on the path to success once again....
1969 1600(daughters build/car)
1967.5 1600(future project)
Just for fun-1949 Chevrolet 2d sedan, 1913 Aussie Model T fire truck, 1948 Jeepster, 1949 Bedford Ute. I might have a car problem...
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brn2rde
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by brn2rde »

Got the ferrule in the mail, and it fits perfectly. So if you loose that part, there is a fix!

HOWEVER.... I simply cannot get my new brake system bled. Tried everything from two man pump to vaccum bleeding to auto bleed pressure setup like in the tech wiki. I can pump them and get pressure, but it quickly dissipates. Clearly, there is air trapped somewhere and I cannot get it to move. Bled the master, jacked up the back of the car. Nothing. Two strange things that must not be coincidence-brake and clutch pedal sit at a much different height. I assumed that was the clutch because it has the adjustable rod, and the brake does not. Maybe that is it? Also, even with constant pressure via the pressure bleeder I only get a dribble out of the rear brakes when bleed screws are open.
Help me out here guys... I am a good 5 hours into a 15 minute job with no relief in sight. While this is the first time I have bled brakes on a dual master, I have bled many brake systems over the years and cannot wrap my head around what is going on....
1969 1600(daughters build/car)
1967.5 1600(future project)
Just for fun-1949 Chevrolet 2d sedan, 1913 Aussie Model T fire truck, 1948 Jeepster, 1949 Bedford Ute. I might have a car problem...
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notoptoy
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by notoptoy »

Are the rear brakes adjusted correctly? Do that first, they must be "tight" enough to create pressure when bleeding, if too loose that won't happen. Did you bleed the master on the car, or bench bleed it? I always bleed on the car, and it usually makes a difference. That ferrule can get turned if I recall correctly, are you sure it's seated correctly? Also, start the bleed from the farthest point first, the Drivers rear, then passenger rear, followed by passenger front and then drivers front. My guess it's the rear brake adjustment that is first suspect.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

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brn2rde
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by brn2rde »

I get fluid from each brake, just not the pressure/volume I would expect.When pedal applied I get enough pressure at the wheel cylinders to lock up the individual tires so I don't think I have an adjustment issue, but I will doublecheck.
I bled the master on the car-but think I am heading towards doing it again. Can I use the two bleed screws on the master, or do I need to disconnect the lines and 'bench' bleed there? Can't find any videos with masters that have their own bleed screws.
Very sure the ferrule is seated correctly. No leaks there and I do have fluid at the rear wheel cylinders. I am pretty sure the new ferrule could not go in sideways and as we speak, the system is pressurized with my pressure bleeder, not leaking a bit.
1969 1600(daughters build/car)
1967.5 1600(future project)
Just for fun-1949 Chevrolet 2d sedan, 1913 Aussie Model T fire truck, 1948 Jeepster, 1949 Bedford Ute. I might have a car problem...
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notoptoy
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by notoptoy »

I just bleed by loosening and bleeding each brake line individually at the master with a helper at the pedal if there is no bleeder (mine has bleeders). Make sure to have good rags to catch any runoff as you know brake fluid is nasty stuff to the painted surfaces! The brake adjustment makes a huge difference, also make sure that the emergency brake is not engaged when you bleed them.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

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2017 C43 AMG
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Re: Brake line connection

Post by notoptoy »

By the way, not to confuse the issue, but since this started out with the ferrule issue, I thought I would post how I got around losing that ferrule. I sure wish I had known about your solution, as I just replaced all the lines and used a new connection in the same spot.
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"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
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