Aluminum flywheel

[ryderfmjones21]

Hi, I have an aluminum flywheel. I was wondering if I need to use a clutch made from a different material to run this? I don’t know where this flywheel came from but I can’t find anything like it online! My guess is somebody had it made or is no longer available. Anyways, I was just wondering what kind of clutch I should be using. I also want to explore the idea of using a 240z clutch? Just throwing that one out on the table though, it’s not very necessary.
Thanks!

[ryderfmjones21]

She came off my 69 Datsun 2000 btw^

[JT68]

Has that been surfaced? Looks like it. The budget AL flywheels made back in the day had a hard chrome wear surface that fails religiously. Looks like that was surfaced off. The better units (Tilton) had a steel wearing plate that matched the diameter of the disc. Without a hard surface it won’t do well.

As for the 240 plate, yes, you can drill the FW for the larger plate if the perimeter is the full diameter. You need a rotory table on a vertical mill - it isn’t a drill press job. Have to drill and press in the dowel pins too and one is offset. Then you must have the assembly balanced since it will definitely need it.

If I was going to run that FW, I’d add a wear plate.
J

[ryderfmjones21]

Yea, figured as much. The fly wheel was abused by the previous owner. Clutch worn so badly the rivets cut a .060 groove into it. I got some aluminum turned it and Borden it out to support the flywheel so I could run the tail stick into it. I then faced it.
I’ve considered putting in a wear plate. I have the ability to here at the shop. Maybe that’s a future project. In the mean time Would it just be better to buy a steel one online? I’m curious to see what would happen if I just ran the aluminum one with a stock clutch. Any idea how long it would last?

[ryderfmjones21]

Here are a couple more pics of it

[JT68]

We stopped building the AL units since the billet chromoly units are so much nicer and nearly perfectly balanced as-is.

You could probably get a wear plate from Tilton- requires a big lathe and/or very careful work on a mill, then balance for sure.

A lot of work, but will certainly work-it will have a short life without the wear plate. Will get "grabby" and tear up the AL.

Also, check to make sure that ring gear is pinned/bolted on- the early AL-FW's had a bad habit of shedding the ring gear. j

[ryderfmjones21]

The wear plates are the same size at the whole flywheel or just the clutch? I might be able to make one on the mill here. I’m only 18 so still learning. But it might be worth a shot just for the experience

[JT68]

The wear plate should be hardened steel for best durability, but only needs to be 200mm OD for the stock clutch, 225mm for the Z. The ID would match the ID of the wearing surface of the disc. Suggest you buy an insert, you really don't want any of this to come apart. You would have to recess it to be pretty much flush with the existing AL FW face.

Just google flywheel insert and track down one for a 200 or 225mm. I would certainly recommend the Z pressure plate - it's just a way better solution-you will never look back

[Mike Unger]

You can buy inserts, here's an example in the link below. If you have a rotary table and a mill you can mill a recess for the insert and drill and spot face the holes for mounting the insert.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fiz-228001/overview/

[JT68]

You might be really cautious on the "do it yourself flywheel" project. Dave pointed out that if this is one of the early 9lb flywheels, there really may not be enough material thickness left on the backside of the FW after you have machined a wear plate flush with the face. If it is too thin back there, there whole thing may fracture, collapse and explode. Might also consider a scatter sheild if you proceed. Seriously, no joke. Best, j

[spyder]

I wouldn't use an AL flywheel without a steel insert. It will wear out fast. I use a kevlar disk. It lasts way better than the normal disk.

Here is a pix of a heavily abused kevlar disk (about 5 years old) against a new one. I ordered the new one before I pulled the engine. I found the old disk was darn close to the new one's thickness and didn't need to be replaced,