So the 70 I picked up had a leak in the rear circuit (LR wheel cylinder gave up the ghost) and I'd been driving around on just the front brakes while I sorted out the fuel issues, etc. So this weekend I tore it down and swapped to the 510 cylinders (13/16" Raybestos PN WC37274). Obviously the inlet on the 510 WC is 10mmx1.0 thread vs. the stock 3/8-24. While I've seen quite a few people install adapters at the wheel cylinder or at the junction block I didn't like that solution as it just creates another point for a potential leak or failure. Since both the stock and 10mm lines use 3/16" tube I ended up buying a section of 3/16" copper nickel tube with the 10mm fittings already installed (you can also buy it in bulk rolls but this was readily available at the parts store). I cut the end off one side and slid a 3/8"-24 inverted flare over the tube, flared it and called it a day. Nice and simple and looks clean and no problems with clearances between the spring mounts or diff on the junction block.
I picked up a master cylinder brace awhile back from someone and it looks pretty straight forward. Assuming I just unbolt the lower master cylinder mounting bolt/stud and slid the brace in and then the lower two mounts/bolts go through the steering shaft support mount?
510 rear cylinder "trick" and questions about master cylinder brace
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- justinmc89
- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2015 5:24 pm
- Location: KCMO
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
510 rear cylinder "trick" and questions about master cylinder brace
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- GeoffM
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Re: 510 rear cylinder "trick" and questions about master cylinder brace
The only issue I ran into when installing the support bracket was that the lower bolt is susceptible to corrosion if the MC has leaked at any point. It uses a captured nut, which I tore out when trying to loosen the bolt. The fix was to convert it to a lock washer and standard nut.
Geoff
1969 SPL-311
1969 SPL-311