...which means the first three items in the brakes maintenance schedule I posted earlier were done on your '68.
...which means we're back to the condition of your '69 brake system.
- You have a pic of a new clutch master. How's the brake master? It could be leaking internally, too.
- When did you last completely flush the brake fluid?
- Never took the master off the car. Just filled it up when I was working on getting the car on the road and was pleasantly surprised when it appeared to work. I do have a new 510 twin tank unit on the shelf but I haven't gotten the thread adapters for it yet. Could swap that in real quick and see if it's better.
Last flush was on the way to Shasta 2017 when all the old stuff bled away on the freeway and had to limp in first gear to brain's shop where we fixed and refilled it.
Oil a little low? Time to get a longer dipstick:) Instagram!!!
1968 2000 SRL311-05110 (first car! Rust Bucket. Sold )
1969 2000 SRL311-10440 (matching numbers, Solex!)
SLOroadster wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 3:32 pm
If the pedal stays firm, but the car doesn't stop, its your pads. If the pedal goes soft, there is an issue with the brakes themselves.
Yes that is the right KFP part number, but they went from about $100 per set to $200 per set. I'm now looking for a different pad to try. The EBCs might be good for the street, but apparently you need 500 miles of break in before they bed in. Not really a good pad for track use. I've been looking for a p/n for Hawk or Carbotech to try either of those. I'm pretty sure I've heard of Jag E type racers running both, so I'd have to guess there is a part that would fit our cars.
Will
How do you come to that Will?
I have also the EBC yellow pads, and yes they have a grind layer that takes about 50 miles and a 100 miles further the work great.
On the circuit it will go much faster I guess.
I changed also the brake fluid for EBC BF307 this is a DOT 4 high performance till 300 degr celsius
I found a pic of the box that states "Please advise customers to drive cautiously during pad bed-in period wich can take up to 500 miles." Then in the instructions, it states...
"Important
After fitting new brake pads, care must be taken when braking. Brake performance may be reduced during the bedding in period. Avoid emergency braking for the first 200 miles until the new pads are fully bedded in. Brake pads should be visibly checked periodically. Always fit new pads when the lining thickness has worn to 3mm."
So, between 200 and 500 miles of use. Great, not really a race pad. Might be fine on the street, but not for the track.
Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
Not a race pad, but XK's Unlimited is selling a pad that promises less fade. Here's the link: https://xks.com/i-7084322-jaguar-semi-m ... 2052m.html
"Manufactured exclusively for XKs Unlimited, these brake pads were designed and developed in Canada under the highest quality standards: ISO9000, QS9000, VDA6.1 and TS16949 (which incorporates at least four more quality standards than QS9000). Made with riveted backing plates in place to solve a decades-old problem. Sold per axle set. Features and Benefits: Semi-metallic composite compound Noise free Excellent performance and fade resistance Minimal rotor wear Friction tested in a state-of-the-art Link Model 3900 brake noise dynamometer as used by OEM manufacturers Manufactured in the same plant where North American OEM friction products are built Manufactured using Positive Molding Technology common to most OEM pads but rare in the aftermarket. This press-curing process guarantees precise control of friction-material density. Most aftermarket pads are made via the Flash Mold method which requires high resin content and can lead to fade and increased stopping distances. Positive molding uses high pressure to compress the friction material and bond it to the backing plate. This process ensures consistent friction material density and excellent performance throughout the lifetime of the brake pad"
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