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ah , someone hauls fast .. haha .... right on . then I'm sure he's already bled the brakes long ago..AidanDawn2000 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 2:17 pm Mushy and decreasingly effective middle pedal that comes as the result of hot brakes
I've defiantly got the latter. Fluid flush and new lines sound like a good starting point for me but if you happen on a good pad to upgrade to I would be interested!SLOroadster wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 3:32 pm If the pedal stays firm, but the car doesn't stop, its your pads. If the pedal goes soft, there is an issue with the brakes themselves.
Classic PremoGregs672000 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 8:21 pm I remember the day that Dave Premo showed me what my Roadster could do in a corner and at speed as we blasted down from one of the hill runs at Shasta. We got to the bottom and there was a set of railroad tracks there so he went to slow down... ah, no... car no stopee! Fade fade fade. While my stock brakes were never good examples of Roadster brakes, that was the day I decided to upgrade my brakes to the vented Maxima rotors and the Toyota 4runner calipers (BTW, NOT a bolt on for those interested). Never faded since (at least the car...).
Not sure what you mean but I'll go give them a lookredroadster wrote: ↑Fri Dec 14, 2018 11:54 am How glazed are the rotors ?
Mine are brakes ae. driveable but turning would rust them
Sounds like an excellent idea to me! Weather might not be the best for us no topers tho
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Ok, it sounds like there could be a sticking caliper, or air in the system, or you are getting pad knockback. I ran into the sticking caliper issue with the #44 car I raced at Monterey this year. I ended up pulling the pads, and pumping the pedal slowly till I saw the pistons start to move. (Not the ideal way to go, but when you are in a pinch, and don't have air pressure at your disposal you get creative.) There could be air in the system, but then I'd guess you would have a soft pedal that just got softer. You might bleed the master cylinder. That might be where you have the air. If you are getting pad knock back, first off, why? One of the tell tails of knock back is that the first pump of the brakes is soft but after that they are firm. Since the rotors are fixed, knock back on a roadster is rare. (Something will have to be lose.)AidanDawn2000 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 14, 2018 2:58 pmI've defiantly got the latter. Fluid flush and new lines sound like a good starting point for me but if you happen on a good pad to upgrade to I would be interested!SLOroadster wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 3:32 pm If the pedal stays firm, but the car doesn't stop, its your pads. If the pedal goes soft, there is an issue with the brakes themselves.
Simple......just drive faster.AidanDawn2000 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 14, 2018 2:58 pmSounds like an excellent idea to me! Weather might not be the best for us no topers tho
Haha that was the much rustyer 68 I had (incredible they worked)ppeters914 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 14, 2018 3:52 pm Hopefully, your front brakes no longer look like they did in 2015:
aidan brake bleed.PNG
) Come to think of it this makes sense as I do infrequently have to top up the fluid levle never any visible leaking tho, must be very slow. Still, seems like heat is the factor here as it’s fine until I really get things hot.C.Costine wrote: ↑Sat Dec 15, 2018 5:59 am Aiden, another possibility is that you have fluid leaking by your internal seals. I just happen to have mine all apart right now, and we know what a job a little moisture from the fluid can do on the cylinders while these cars sit. You could try opening up the outer seal next to the pads to see if any fluid is making its way out past the cylinder seal and collecting under the outer seal.
) I think two Christmases ago. All thanks to my dear friend Brian Kippen for sending me the Craigslist link an hour after it was posted!ppeters914 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 14, 2018 10:18 pm Oh! So all those Instagram pics aren't the same car?
Edit: Just noticed the two cars in your signature. When did you get the '69?
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How do you come to that Will?SLOroadster wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 3:32 pm If the pedal stays firm, but the car doesn't stop, its your pads. If the pedal goes soft, there is an issue with the brakes themselves.
Yes that is the right KFP part number, but they went from about $100 per set to $200 per set. I'm now looking for a different pad to try. The EBCs might be good for the street, but apparently you need 500 miles of break in before they bed in. Not really a good pad for track use. I've been looking for a p/n for Hawk or Carbotech to try either of those. I'm pretty sure I've heard of Jag E type racers running both, so I'd have to guess there is a part that would fit our cars.
Will
...which means the first three items in the brakes maintenance schedule I posted earlier were done on your '68.AidanDawn2000 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 15, 2018 1:54 pmI think two Christmases ago. All thanks to my dear friend Brian Kippen for sending me the Craigslist link an hour after it was posted!ppeters914 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 14, 2018 10:18 pm Oh! So all those Instagram pics aren't the same car?
Edit: Just noticed the two cars in your signature. When did you get the '69?
It’s turned out to be a great car and daily driver (around 10,000 miles this year!)
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