Changing Timing Chain

[Gornal]

Hi,

Can anyone tell me if changing the timing chain is a DIY job? What replacement parts will I need in addition to the timing chains?

thanks

[JT68]

So the good news is you didn't break a chain - that can be near total destruction.

The bad news is the most straightforward way to deal with this is pull the engine, now - before you do break a chain.


If you rotate the engine at all right now, you are risking damaging the engine in several ways. There is little to be gained. You can't really (thoroughly) inspect the lower chain.

It is possible to do chain work in the car, but unless you are a very good mechanic, you will find it much easier to pull the engine.

If the engine was rebuilt, it is possible, though not very likely, that the parts were left in the oil pan by accident - I have found all kinds of things in oil pans....still, I would not make that assumption, you are on the good side of disaster right now.

If you really want to do it in the car, I can tell you how, but odds are you are pulling the engine anyway. Suggest you not buy ANY parts until you know what the issue is exactly. j

[Linda]

How long would it take a good mechanic with tools, to do the job, engine in car, and how long for an amateur? Then comparing that with the job out of the car?
Out of curiosity...
Linda

[JT68]

I'd only suggest trying it in the car if you know for a fact the engine has been rebuilt and expect things to come apart easily. If the engine has been together for years, its much easier out of the car.

Hard to put an exact time on it since we always get side tracked cleaning up, replacing other stuff etc.

For a pro, the time commitment is probably about the same I'd say. For most mechanics, certainly easier on an engine stand since you can rotate the engine.

[theunz]

Since you already have the engine out changing the chains, yes there are two of them, is easy. The only special tool you might need is a puller for the harmonic balancer. Unless someone has changed it the timing cover has studs that go into the oil pan and the head. Since you have already removed the pan those on the bottom will not be a problem however, the ones on top can be. Indexing the chain to the crankshaft and camshaft is critical! Get a manual or have jt68 explain it to you. I would expect that you may need to replace some, if not all, of the gears as well. JT sells the parts you will need.

[cktrap]

You can pull the engine in about 4-6 hours the first time. I can get it in or out in about 2 hours by myself. It pretty straightforward after the first time. Like JT said it a lot easier to work on when it’s on an engine stand. Easier on the back, too

[Gornal]

I already have the engine out, on an engine stand as the body is off getting painted. My gut feel is to go the whole hog and replace both chains just to be on the safe side. A list of parts from JT would be helpful and a quick guide. I have a couple of manuals I am consulting but any advice or tips are always well received by me, thanks

[2mAn]

please take lots of pics when you do the change... Im probably going to do this soon

[2mAn]

any updates on this?

[Geistfahrar]

Excuse me for jumping on this thread, as I am not contemplating changing my timing chains, but I wanted to interject that I am complete agreement with TJ & the others re pulling the engine for ANY major internal engine work. I pulled mine in '83 & did a 90% rebuild 0f the engine & trans, finishing in '84. My problem is that I am no longer physically able to do it again ( I was a youngster of 51 in 83' ). Indeed, I can no longer do much work under the car as well, due to a crushed disc in my neck ( a 90-degree turn of my head and I pass out ).

I am hoping that some of the So Cal fanatics that troll the Tech forum will take note, & recommend a savvy roadster mechanic that can take over for me, for any major repairs & under-car work. I agree with the recent posts suggesting complete replacement of the brake lines for any car that has sat unused for several years. I replaced the right front line some 20 years ago, but it was not an OEM part ( hydraulics guru built one for me ). Before I put the car on the road again I want to flush the lines and bleed/test all master/slave cylinders.

When I put in the required shims for the upper chain, to take up the slack, I inspected, as best I could, the lower chain & sprocket through the inspection port, and all the parts I could see & feel appeared ok ( 25,574 miles on the re-build ). I do wonder, if there is a good way to detect a dangerously worn lower chain, by the "stethoscope" method.

As far as the overall restoration of the roadster goes, I am treating it as a Bucket Item, that I will take as far as I can. I do not want the "old girl" ending up a parts-store, so I want to get it up to "road-worthy" status, before my time is up. The job can be finished by some worthy roadster nut, with Grandson #3 getting first dibs. He is finishing up his Automotive Technology course at Rogue River Community College in Grants Pass, & can handle the job, as he & his classmates just finished completely re-building his Uncle's 1990 Beemer.

Thanks for the help ---

Garry

[Linda]

Skip Miller, Miller Sports and Imports for any repair work including anything you might have messed up doing work yourself
.Nice guy who worked on Roadsters when new.
Now back to topic.
What about paying a mobile mechanic to pull the engine then you do the work and then mobile guy reinstalls. Not everyone has all the tools for an engine pull but they still want to do the work.
Linda

[Geistfahrar]

Thanks for the input Linda!

I had checked out Skip Miller's location online ( Google Earth ) about a year ago, when I first started getting my ducks in a row for the roadster repair. I had planned to drop in on his shop, on the way to my friends house on Kinneloa Mesa, but when he passed away last April, I put the visit on hold. Besides the brake work, I have a new tie-rod & u-joint ( 48560-25900 & 37124-P3000 ) that also need to be installed ( my previous mechanic in Brea CA retired before finishing the front steering assembly replacement ). Miller's shop is only 15 non-freeway miles away from me, so I could probably get the car in & out in one day, if I get the brake parts ordered & ready before I go in.

Garry

[2mAn]

I’m no pro but I’m stupid enough to leave the motor in the car. I’m currently doing this for the first time and am about to pull the head off. I know that it’s easier by pulling the motor out and if you have the means I’ll second everyone else’s suggestion. It wasn’t in the cards for me so I’m currently going down this path doing it the harder way.

[spyder]

Make sure you get the bottom chain timed correctly. If it is off it will cause the top chain to be off a 1/2 tooth.

[theunz]

Timing is everything