"Alternative alternator" wiring to fuse etc.

[Lorna c]

I have done this a ways back but some of the wire I used was speaker wire 10gage and they're falling apart now . Ok I see that now.. duh ... anyway , I needed to put a diode in because the car had "run on or off " when I took the key out and kept on running and I also put in the fuse I believe it's on a different line.. or wire I mean .. anyway I switched out the speaker wire to real wire But when I put on the ground to the battery back on ..it blows my fuse out ... .. a couple questions if I may ,.
** Can those jack fittings (#2of them) touch side by side ..meaning should I protect them from touching eachother ? And
The side prong fittings the jack's go to , there's two , top or lower one . Which goes to main power post in middle of alternator. Top or Bottom one ? .

And which way should to diode point , into wire harness or towards alternator ? Sorry need to check before I just rip everything and not need to it's getting dark and I don't want to wake up to this if anyone could understand that what I tried to explain ..

[nismou20]

Uh, No not really. You're all over the place on this. The alternator has no affect on run-on and you have what seems like a direct short somewhere to blow a fuse just by connecting battery ground. I would strongly recommend getting a rebuilt or known good alternator and just replace rather than try to repair the bad one. Unless you have a basic understanding of electrical flow that is.

[Lorna c]

Yeah . I didn't make any sense .. sorry . I think I explain really well and it's probably further away when I'm done .

[JT68]

The run-on issue with the alt is certainly real, but only occurs with newer style self regulating alternators and it does make sense. Here is a simple explanation:

In order to work those alternators require switched 12V. That connection is typically made by connecting it to the ignition circuit so with the key on it is energized. That also typically means there is a direct connection from the alternator "lamp" or "excite" circuit(often the dash idiot lamp is the excite circuit) whether the key is on or off.

Prior to energizing the excite circuit is basically at ground potential, but as soon as the Alt is charging that wire become a 12+ source. Once that happens if you turn the key off, 12V is still connected to the ignition circuit and the car will keep on happily running.

The diode only allows excitation of the Alt and stops any current flow from the excite wire back to the ignition circuit. A resistor will also work if it is the correct value, but a diode eliminates any concern with that.

hope this helps. (This situation never occurs with original alternators) j

[Lorna c]

The run-on issue with the alt is certainly real, but only occurs with newer style self regulating alternators and it does make sense. Here is a simple explanation:

In order to work those alternators require switched 12V. That connection is typically made by connecting it to the ignition circuit so with the key on it is energized. That also typically means there is a direct connection from the alternator "lamp" or "excite" circuit(often the dash idiot lamp is the excite circuit) whether the key is on or off.

Prior to energizing the excite circuit is basically at ground potential, but as soon as the Alt is charging that wire become a 12+ source. Once that happens if you turn the key off, 12V is still connected to the ignition circuit and the car will keep on happily running.

The diode only allows excitation of the Alt and stops any current flow from the excite wire back to the ignition circuit. A resistor will also work if it is the correct value, but a diode eliminates any concern with that.

hope this helps. (This situation never occurs with original alternators) j

Yes it does thx .

[Lorna c]

The run-on issue with the alt is certainly real, but only occurs with newer style self regulating alternators and it does make sense. Here is a simple explanation:

In order to work those alternators require switched 12V. That connection is typically made by connecting it to the ignition circuit so with the key on it is energized. That also typically means there is a direct connection from the alternator "lamp" or "excite" circuit(often the dash idiot lamp is the excite circuit) whether the key is on or off.

Prior to energizing the excite circuit is basically at ground potential, but as soon as the Alt is charging that wire become a 12+ source. Once that happens if you turn the key off, 12V is still connected to the ignition circuit and the car will keep on happily running.

The diode only allows excitation of the Alt and stops any current flow from the excite wire back to the ignition circuit. A resistor will also work if it is the correct value, but a diode eliminates any concern with that.

hope this helps. (This situation never occurs with original alternators) j

Ok now may I ask you .
The excite wire the number #one top connection(Spade) that's the one with the diode pointing towards the alternator, current flows to the alternator.. and the bottom one goes back in and it loops on the power post. ? Right ? And the fuse is on the main power wire to the post , right ?

[Lorna c]

Let me start over and try to explain it better /different .
When switching out an alternator, to a new generics Ford style replacement three wire kind , there's two posts on the side taking Spade style connection s , there's a #1 &#2 on them , a main power post in the back middle . Now I used speaker wire 10g before and yes it's brittle now and crumbling . Who knew speaker wire was so different . I do now ... So I flipped them out really quick 3 days ago . Now each time I go to hook the battery back up it blows the fuse that runs to the power post positive in back middle that I was told to add to it . So far I have the diode pointing to the alternator *line is tward alternator side . I believe going to alternator and not back into ING. ? Then the #2 lower side wire goes back to look into main power post in back middle (?) And the #1 going to ING with diode on that wire . Is this correct or something wrong ? I keep blowing that fuse 40w fuse ..
If anyone undstands me pls help . I'm going on 4 days now just to flip out crap wires

[Lorna c]

Found my other post on it finally .. electrical drain it's under

[Curtis]

First, please break up your explanation in to blocks so we can read it better and help you better. Second it would be helpful to us if we had a picture of the alternator.

The diode for exciting the alternator should not have anything to do with the fuse. The fuse to protect the circuits should be on the 10 ga wire. My question is did you accidentally hook the 10ga up to the ground post on the alternator? i'm supposing you didn't but that could explain the immediate blowing of the fuse.

[Lorna c]

First, please break up your explanation in to blocks so we can read it better and help you better. Second it would be helpful to us if we had a picture of the alternator.

The diode for exciting the alternator should not have anything to do with the fuse. The fuse to protect the circuits should be on the 10 ga wire. My question is did you accidentally hook the 10ga up to the ground post on the alternator? i'm supposing you didn't but that could explain the immediate blowing of the fuse.

No I didn't but good thought . My spade connections we're grounding to the block . I still haven't found a good plastic one yet . That was it since I flipped #1&#2 having them back words before I called out for help on here . . So , 3 days off and on work just to switch out wire that I used the last time I did alternator.. note to self ,
**not all 10g wire is the same !
I hate all this learning I'm having to do . I've got a headach now . Ok welp that's all for now . Oh and blocking it up to make it easier to help me , I need to do more reading on here to see what that means . I know what it means but I think when I'm trying to explain it so you all can understand me , it goes bad .. I'll keep working on it . Don't hate me yet , I'll be helpful soon . I hope .

[nismou20]

When I went to a GM Alt there is 2 spade connector and 2 posts on Alt body. One is positive and the other alt ground on body. Are you sure you don't have the 10 Gauge White wire connected to ground? That's a short and will blow fuses. I'm just assuming Ford Alts are seemingly the same maybe not. You really need to know which wires are which. I'm also assuming the excit wire is one of the spade connector wire.

[Linda]

Pic, Lorna, pic. Labelled if possible with view of wires.
Linda

[Lorna c]

When I went to a GM Alt there is 2 spade connector and 2 posts on Alt body. One is positive and the other alt ground on body. Are you sure you don't have the 10 Gauge White wire connected to ground? That's a short and will blow fuses. I'm just assuming Ford Alts are seemingly the same maybe not. You really need to know which wires are which. I'm also assuming the excit wire is one of the spade connector wire.

I got it , I got it .. it's a value something $35 alternator . Idk if Ford but was off the list in wiki back when I did the job .. I guess I think you know what I mean , or don't realize someone wouldn't .. anyway I got it .. it was a grounded side connecter hitting the block . #1/#2 ? Idk which or both but it's fixed . . I got tired of ripping all out and doing it again so I had another thought . Pulled all including drop out altt to be able to get to those wires again and wrapped them up with electrical tape and put back in . And vrummmm ! That was so fun I can't wait to do it again ..

[Lorna c]

Pic, Lorna, pic. Labelled if possible with view of wires.
Linda

I know , I know . My phone isn't listening to me about sending lower Gigs .. I'll figure something out about that though ... For sure now .. thanks

[Lorna c]

Hey I updated my phone and it's listening again ..

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