Removing the air injection manifold

Tech tips and how to's

Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68

User avatar
cktrap
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 964
Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:56 pm
Location: colleyville,tx

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by cktrap »

Who knew
'70 SRL311
'10 GMC 2500HD
User avatar
68DSU
Roadster Fanatic-Site Supporter
Posts: 1000
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 10:02 am
Location: Fair Oaks, Ca.
Model: 1500/1600
Year: High Windshield-68-70

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by 68DSU »

If I were to admit to taking the smog off my car I would be one who boxed it up, "just in case". If you keep it currently registered or non op, there would be no reason for anyone to check the smog system. If someone decided to check on a stop, that person would have to know what was required for that year model of car. That officer would have to pretty much own a roadster. Having said that, I know at least three in California. If stopped, be nice, just in case.
The system in 68 was adapted to meet requirements but did not hold up over time and actually made the car run less efficiently. IMO taking the system off makes for a cleaner running car than keeping an old system.
Rick
Constantly working on the Datsun whenever I get around to it.

1968 SPL 311
1987 Toyota MR2 T-top (don't hate, wife's car)
2014 Ford Mustang convertible
SPF 50
Geistfahrar
Roadster Nut
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2018 1:50 pm
Location: S G Valley, So Cal

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by Geistfahrar »

Well, all the smog equipment is off the roadster & the radiator is drained. Next step is to loosen the alternator and remove the cooling system hoses. With the air pump out, I can see the timing arrow on the right-front of the block, & I noticed that the vibration damper is really covered with rust. I haven't pulled the roadster down this far since 84', so I don't remember how deep the timing marks are cut in the damper. I am hoping a shot of PB Blaster and a wire brush will let me see enough marks to set the new dizzy, without rolling the car out of the garage. I will pull the plugs & see if I can turn the crank with a wrench, What size is the nut on the damper ( I hope clockwise is the proper turn ). Any comments?

Garry S.
Location Southern Cal
69' 2000 Roadster, being repaired by O/O
2001 Mercedes ML430; Was Wife's ride, now Grocery-hauler
2005 Jeep Wrangler X; Was Motor-home Toad, now local shopper
2005 33' Dolphin motor-home; Was vacation home, now guest house
User avatar
mraitch
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 3629
Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:03 pm
Location: Lake Balboa (SFV) - CA
Model: 1500/1600
Year: High Windshield-68-70
Contact:

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by mraitch »

It's ANTI clockwise if you are at either side of the car. If at the front (awkward its clockwise), sitting in the driver seat (impossible) then anti-clockwise. - lol

Thinks it is a 27mm, though it's so large that anything close will work. (And REMEMBER to remove it after your have rotated the engine, otherwise nasty things may happen (ask me how I know)

Without the smog pump, you really should change the springs in the dizzy (check tech wiki) and timing is I believe 16-17 BTDC (again tech wiki)

Keep the smog pump bracket - you will need it if you ever decide to move the alternator over (or better yet get a modern single wire and mount it there) - tech wiki again!!!! You MIGHT have to shave a bit from the 'nose' of the bracket) but again techwiki.

There is also a little electric attachment between the carburetors that can also go.

BTW, you might add your car (year/type - 1600/2000) to either your signature or your avatar!

You should see 7-10 HP increase.

BTW, are you running a clutch fan or a 7-blade. Certainly ditch the former and try to find a 4-blade. Quieter and less draw.

HTH.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
Geistfahrar
Roadster Nut
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2018 1:50 pm
Location: S G Valley, So Cal

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by Geistfahrar »

Thanks for the updates Pete ---

I checked my tool box and found a 1-1/16" socket that fits perfectly ( undoubtedly used when I did the full tear-down in 82' - 83' ). I had already decided to swap my wobbly OEM dizzy for GB drop-in from East Coast Roadsters. I haven't purchased it yet, as I want to take care of all the problems at the front of the engine first. My radiator is original & does not leak. When last out on the road ( before the water pump let go ) circulation was good, and ran too cold if anything. The lower radiator hose is original ( braided cover ) & feels firm when I "massage" it. If it looks rotted internally when I remove the WP I will replace it ( Rallye Enterprises has a Nissan direct replacement ).

I have left the air-pump support bracket in place, and am saving the pump through-bolt/nut as well. I read Eric Smeby's GM Alternator Swap write-up in the tech Wiki section, & looks like the way to go. Unless I miss-read it, he indicated the GM would be a drop-in if the smog-mount had already been modified to switch the oem Alt over to the passenger side. The mods seemed to be minimal, and something I can probably handle with my shop equipment. I have the padded dash, so I would have to do the wireing mod, to keep my original ammeter.

My understanding is that only the 70's with SU's have the electrical gizmo between the carbs. My guy is a 69 2L ( SRL31108559 ). It is listed on the Forum registry, probably from some earlier sign-on to this or an earlier forum. I haven't figured out to get my pix onto an avatar or signature. I have a couple of recent ( 2011 I think ) photos, in Jpg format. When I figure out how, I will get them out for the members to see. I am assuming that other personal info ( additional rides, residence locatiom etc.) do not appear on my signature, as I am Newby to the forum.

Regarding the radiator fan, it is the original 7-blade plastic one, with a spacer replacing the clutch that failed decades ago. I took an interest in the flex fan, mainly due to Spyder's enthusiasm, but am leery of the 6-blade offerings from Summit Racing. I have not investigated 4-blade fans to any extent ( I assume all are plastic ), but quick searches turned up words like "pricey" & "significant mods" relative to an OEM pump replacement. I stand ready to be educated, while in the process of removing & replaceing the pump.

Garry S.
Location Southern Cal
69' 2000 Roadster, being repaired by O/O
2001 Mercedes ML430; Was Wife's ride, now Grocery-hauler
2005 Jeep Wrangler X; Was Motor-home Toad, now local shopper
2005 33' Dolphin motor-home; Was vacation home, now guest house
Geistfahrar
Roadster Nut
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2018 1:50 pm
Location: S G Valley, So Cal

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by Geistfahrar »

Since the smog stuff is off and boxed, there is no need for me to pursue this thread any longer. I am now running into nasty problems regarding removing the radiator, in order to get to the fan. I will do some searches relative to radiator removal problems, since many members have probably hit the same obstacles. If I come up dry, I will open a new thread & detail my specific problems,

G.S.
Location Southern Cal
69' 2000 Roadster, being repaired by O/O
2001 Mercedes ML430; Was Wife's ride, now Grocery-hauler
2005 Jeep Wrangler X; Was Motor-home Toad, now local shopper
2005 33' Dolphin motor-home; Was vacation home, now guest house
greydog
Roadster Fanatic-Site Supporter
Posts: 1790
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 11:37 pm
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Model: 1500/1600
Year: High Windshield-68-70

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by greydog »

I dont recall any significant issues pulling the radiators from either of our cars although there isnt a lot of room.
What is giving you trouble?
Dan
SPL311 aka Skooter. Sold. Now wasting away in the SF area.
1990 Nissan 300zx. Sold this one too.
2018 VW Tiguan
Geistfahrar
Roadster Nut
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2018 1:50 pm
Location: S G Valley, So Cal

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by Geistfahrar »

Thanks for the reply greydog. I posted my problems ( somewhat ) a few minutes ago on the "stuck removing fan/radiator" thread.

Garry S.
Location Southern Cal
69' 2000 Roadster, being repaired by O/O
2001 Mercedes ML430; Was Wife's ride, now Grocery-hauler
2005 Jeep Wrangler X; Was Motor-home Toad, now local shopper
2005 33' Dolphin motor-home; Was vacation home, now guest house
User avatar
mraitch
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 3629
Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:03 pm
Location: Lake Balboa (SFV) - CA
Model: 1500/1600
Year: High Windshield-68-70
Contact:

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by mraitch »

Typically, in my experience, I have had to remove the fan first.
Think thet are 10mm bolts. Might be easier to remove all shroud bolts, PLUS upper radiator hose from tower to radiator. This will allow you to easier access the fan bolts.

Then remove LOWER radiator bolts, bolts holding the 'air deflector" (again 10 mm) to the bottom of the radiator, and then all the retaining bolts on the top horizontal bracket - EXCEPT those JUST attached to the radiator. Disconnect all appropriate hoses and it should come out quite easily.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
Geistfahrar
Roadster Nut
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2018 1:50 pm
Location: S G Valley, So Cal

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by Geistfahrar »

Thanks,

Tomorrow I will see if I can get a 10 MM box wrench ( or socket ) between the radiator & the fan ( cardboard against the radiator 1st ). Space between radiator and fan hub is 2", so can only hope the bolts are not in too tight ( no room for a 16" breaker bar ).

Garry S.
Location Southern Cal
69' 2000 Roadster, being repaired by O/O
2001 Mercedes ML430; Was Wife's ride, now Grocery-hauler
2005 Jeep Wrangler X; Was Motor-home Toad, now local shopper
2005 33' Dolphin motor-home; Was vacation home, now guest house
User avatar
mraitch
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 3629
Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:03 pm
Location: Lake Balboa (SFV) - CA
Model: 1500/1600
Year: High Windshield-68-70
Contact:

Re: Removing the air injection manifold

Post by mraitch »

Ideally. It will work with a ratcheting wrench that is flexible.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
Post Reply