Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

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greydog
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by greydog »

As I thin,k about it, my cover had bolts at the top. When I put it back, I used bolts in the pan too.
I used a wide blade putty knife to keep from snagging the head gaskey when I slid the cover back.
Greg is right, there was not muck wiggle room.
Dan
SPL311 aka Skooter. Sold. Now wasting away in the SF area.
1990 Nissan 300zx. Sold this one too.
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sunbeam590
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by sunbeam590 »

I wonder where all the metal went from the evil L, I would also be having a serious look at the oil pump and strainer,I have seen them with fractures in the wire strainer..and while there check the sump Baffles for fractures ( Very common on U20 with the Alloy sump )
KEVIN
69 Datsun 2000, Factory Solexes.
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toplessdottie
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by toplessdottie »

Just to update:

First, thanks for all the help. I'm going to go ahead and just go for a full engine rebuild.
My "list of items" needed is quite large (and quite expensive).
But I've been sitting on a pair of Mikuni 44phh's, and putting them on a refresh engine just feels right.

So far I think my parts list is quite complete, thanks to your input. However, I have some questions for folks who have done it in the past... like adjustable cam pros/cons? Rewire while I'm at it? Electronic ignition? Etc...

But seeing as it's off topic for this thread, I'll run a search... and then perhaps start a "rebuild" thread, documenting it extensively and with lots of pictures.

Thanks again.
Just be happy, and have fun!

Chris in Dallas
'64 1500 3 seater
'70 2000 KA Swap
'21 Titan Pro4x
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Gregs672000
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by Gregs672000 »

If you have the carbs and manifold, you'll want a cam to go with it. Â nice new old stock B cam just cam onto the list, or you could run a regrind with proper lash caps if needed. But here's the deal... you're gonna need to tune and jet the carbs, and that takes some time and understanding. Cam timing is important on these engines. It is good that you'll be using new chains and gears, as that should get you close to factory cam timing, but the reality is that it's still some hit or miss. Some may feel cam timing is beyond a typical rebuild, but without getting it right my highly modified street engine did not produce the power it should have... only by adjusting the cam did it wake up. Your builder should know how to use a degree wheel and a dial indicator to be able to determine top dead center so that the timing marks on the crank can be evaluated for accuracy and to mark it appropriately. Then the cam timing can be looked at when the cam is installed. JT68 has been kind enough to reveal that Nissan used a mark on the cam bearing cap as a cam timing mark (the little arrow), and with an adjustable cam gear can get very close. The only REAL way to know is to run it on dyno later and adjust the cam a degree or two advanced or retarded to see what the output does and where in the power band it makes power. I would also suggest getting or borrowing a wide band O2 air/fuel meter for carb jetting... will save hours of effort setting up the carbs. We can get you close, but every car is different.

This is a very involved deal, rebuilding a U20, especially when you're adding hipo parts and wanting to reap the benefits. I want you to know what you're committing to, not to scare you... I want you to be successful, and this is quite doable. There's a ton of knowledge on this site, and we're ready to help any way, any time.
Greg Burrows
'67 2000 #588
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toplessdottie
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by toplessdottie »

Greg,

Thanks for the transparency and tips. It's more than appreciated.

Realizing it's going to be an INVOLVED ($$$) process... now just feels the right time. I know it's a "while-I'm-at-it" situation.

To be perfectly honest, I think I've been secretly looking for a reason to take it this far. The timing chain and gears just gave me that excuse.
Just be happy, and have fun!

Chris in Dallas
'64 1500 3 seater
'70 2000 KA Swap
'21 Titan Pro4x
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Gregs672000
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by Gregs672000 »

Ah Ha! The truth comes out! Makes me smile!
I'm excited for you. You asked what else might one want to consider, and that opens up the door for a couple of important questions if I may...
What is the condition of the rest of the Car? Brakes? Suspension? Transmission? Cooling? Tires?
All good? Are there concerns one should consider since you're committing to doing some work on the car? Any safety concerns? Sometimes its important to take some things into consideration.
What are your goals with this engine rebuild?
How long do you expect this to Take?
Where do you expect this to occur?
Can you trust the organization you are trusting your car to? How do you know? (No disrespect of course!)
Regarding the EI ignition, that's a must in my opinion. There are some interesting options out there, all of which work great. Some offer more adjustability, with subsequently more expense.
More than happy to share anything, don't pretend to know Everything, but always wanting to help!
On ward!
:smt006
Greg Burrows
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Linda
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by Linda »

I would check with all your Texas pals in the Texas Datsun Roadster Club. There is a wealth of knowledge there about the car, local resources etc.
Have an engine pulling party!
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
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toplessdottie
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by toplessdottie »

I LOVE the idea of an Engine-Pull-Party!!! Haha

So here is the breakdown of the current plan.
I've got a '64 1500 (with a 1600 internals). What I'm going to do is transplant the rebuilt U20 with new carbs into the 1500. Since it doesn't have the original motor in it, I don't feel that I'm "disrespecting" the car. I'm looking to keep the exterior/ interior stock "looking."

**The '70 2000 will then sit and wait to be transformed into an off-the-wall SR20DET street demon and show-circuit car (in the distant future)**

As to your questions Greg (all good to think about). I realize you were asking rhetorically, but I thought while I answered them for myself... I'd share them with you.

What is the condition of the rest of the Car? Body needs help, and it will come off the frame for the strip, work, and re-spray
Brakes? Looking to steal breaks off of the '70, as they've served me well
Suspension? Open to suggestions. But thinking Mike Young comp springs with JT86 shocks (will need leafs too). I love the low windshield cars riding a little lower.
Transmission? Use the '70's 5-speed after a refresh (including the clutch and lightened flywheel)
Cooling? Would like to use the 70' rad to keep the bay looking slightly period correct. But I may have to update cooling components, and add an electric fan. Especially going to B cam.
Tires? Nice new white walls are on the 70
Wheels? Would LOVE to find a pair of 1500 caps, but will probably have to have a knock-off set custom made.

Are there concerns one should consider since you're committing to doing some work on the car?
Any safety concerns? Only one (but there is not too much I can do about it). One reason for taking this route with the 1500 is that third seat. I have a little girl, and I'd LOVE to share a cruise with her AND my wife. As of today, only one of them gets to ride. I'm sure she'd LOVE that sideways seat.

Sometimes its important to take some things into consideration.
What are your goals with this engine rebuild? The goal of the build is having confidence knowing who/when the motor was touched. Getting 50 years of gook and grime out. Starting fresh
How long do you expect this to Take? About two years
Where do you expect this to occur? Engine rebuild and tuned with my guy in Dallas, the transplant probably done by Simtec Motorsport
Can you trust the organization you are trusting your car to? Engine, yes. Transplant, I think so.
How do you know? (No disrespect of course!) I spent the better part of a day at the Simtec shop, Craig is a DIE-HARD Datsun freak. I have confidence it will be in good hands.


I'm also taking a flight up to see Michael at Spriso in the near future. He's done an SR swap on a 1500, and while I'm not going that route I think that his feedback on the 1500 resto will be beneficial. He documented it well here, but there is nothing like see/ discussing it in person.

As I said, I'll start a detail build thread too.

I realize that some of you might be thinking, "why do a mikuni and B cam swap when you say you want to drive your family around?" Think Porsche Panamera.. I'd like to have the option to cruise with the family OR tear a little hell when I want. Also, I just think, had the technology/ customer existed in 1964, Nissan would've offered a 2L Solex option. Right? :)
Last edited by toplessdottie on Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just be happy, and have fun!

Chris in Dallas
'64 1500 3 seater
'70 2000 KA Swap
'21 Titan Pro4x
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Gregs672000
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by Gregs672000 »

Sounds like a good plan my friend! Several years ago I too considered the 3 seater but was unable to find one. Not sure whats available for the 1500 vs 1600 for a rad, but that would be a good idea, and I'm a big fan of the electric fans. You will LOVE the Bilsteins for shocks. I run flexform rear springs, and if you need to replace the old springs they are a good way to go. You'll need lowering blocks to match the front spring drop (made? Most mass produced are too long to use without modifying the metal plates, which is the route I went. I can measure mine and give you an idea what size block you will need to match the front Springs well... one inch as I recall. Will also need longer u bolts, have them made at a spring shop). Since you're getting new gears, get the adjustable cam gear, your builder will appreciate it. If you're keeping stock compression, you should be fine with the advance curve in the EI distributor that's available. Your other drop in option is the new 123 ignition distributor where you can program the curve at certain rpms... helpful if you're pushing the compression ratio up and worry about ping/knock, or like playing with ignition timing. Crank fired systems like the megajolt I run will not be needed unless you're bumping compression considerably and still trying to run pump gas like I do.
Sounds like you have good, knowledgeable folks doing the Work! That's great. If they have any questions we're happy to help! Start a thread and we'll journey along with you!
Greg Burrows
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SLOroadster
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by SLOroadster »

In dropping a U20 into a 1500, are you going to run the 4 spd, or put a 5 spd in? If you are putting a 5 spd in, you may or may not need to cut the transmission tunnel for the shifter. (I have no idea where a 1500 shifter sits in relation to a U20 and a 5 spd.) You might also budget for a lightweight aluminum flywheel. It will make the engine much more crisp.
Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
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toplessdottie
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Re: Death Rattle... aka I should've been listening

Post by toplessdottie »

SLO,

It is currently running a 1600 motor and transmission. I'll be dropping in my 5speed. I'm hoping no/little modification is needed to the tunnel or shifter hole... but I'm doubtful. This will me my first go-around with a 1500 body.

But I agree on the flywheel, I've already got one in my cart!
Just be happy, and have fun!

Chris in Dallas
'64 1500 3 seater
'70 2000 KA Swap
'21 Titan Pro4x
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