The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

[Curtis]

Noticed yesterday the car was running a bit hot at times. Checked the coolant today and put in between 1 and 2 quarts. What is normal coolant loss over time for these? I don't drive that much. Could be I did not get it topped off last year when I put in antifreeze.

Any pressurized system if operating properly will not loose any, However even a short overheat situation can cause it to push a little out.

Thanks. Must not have got it topped off. Can't remember if I did the push the thermostat open with the screwdriver trick.

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Champion Radiator part number?
Looked through the archives to no avail
thnx

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Adding to the above question..........
I thermo-tested the radiator, therm tower, upper hose, lower hose, and head
the initial test from start up (after warm up) was lower rad hose 115 upper 85
after 20-30 min the upper and lower were rising to the point where the upper and lower showed approx 230
the gauge on the 67.5 1600 seemed to be accurate
Is this indicative of a clogged radiator?
therm was replaced last year
bled the system multiple times last year as well as the start of this year (today)
thnx
t

[C.Costine]

Adding to the above question..........
I thermo-tested the radiator, therm tower, upper hose, lower hose, and head
the initial test from start up (after warm up) was lower rad hose 115 upper 85
after 20-30 min the upper and lower were rising to the point where the upper and lower showed approx 230
the gauge on the 67.5 1600 seemed to be accurate
Is this indicative of a clogged radiator?
therm was replaced last year
bled the system multiple times last year as well as the start of this year (today)
thnx
t

What do you mean by "the gauge seemed to be accurate"? Are you intending to say that the gauge agrees with the hand held thermometer?

[space]

Adding to the above question..........
I thermo-tested the radiator, therm tower, upper hose, lower hose, and head
the initial test from start up (after warm up) was lower rad hose 115 upper 85
after 20-30 min the upper and lower were rising to the point where the upper and lower showed approx 230
the gauge on the 67.5 1600 seemed to be accurate
Is this indicative of a clogged radiator?
therm was replaced last year
bled the system multiple times last year as well as the start of this year (today)
thnx
t

What do you mean by "the gauge seemed to be accurate"? Are you intending to say that the gauge agrees with the hand held thermometer?

yes

[autoairman]

One of the oldest,and best ways to check for blockage is by feel.You should have unrestricted access to the front of the radiator to do this.I would run car off idle,for optimum coolant flow,and as thermostat opens,top tank and top of core will be hot,and with a clean radiator,will give up heat as it flows down.I can promise you a hand felt core at 230 degrees will get your attention quickly,180 degrees is much easier to make your diagnosis with if system is working properly.Also remember for every pound of pressure your system is under,boiling temp. is raised by 3 degrees roughly.If you are running 230 degrees and not under pressure,I would look at a gauge problem.I dont think you mentioned fan and shroud type.These are both very important to a car that has no ram air effect as in driving down the road.If you think air flow is a problem,put a fan in front of car while testing.
Just my 2 cents worth


l

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Thanks auto
The shroud and fan are original

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update
put a fan in front of radiator No Fan:
Top of radiator (TOR) 87 100
BOR 60 95
Tower 186 216
lower hose 73 83
upper hose 83 95
Block (plug side) 173 180

also there is some coolant around the tower cap (i suspect its the cap gasket)
thoughts?
T

[mraitch]

The inside of at least the '70 'vent' windows are 'satin' Is this a 'coating' that can be removed other than by polishing?? It does polish up, but even with 'black' it takes quite a bit of effort.

Thanks.

[C.Costine]

What is the correct pathway for the current to get from my alternator to my battery? The car came off the road in 2002 due to trouble shooting a no battery charge condition. I have been performing a major overhaul since Feb of 2015 and have it nearly done. Motor and both major wire harnesses were removed and most terminals labeled. The wire harnesses were closely inspected and a number of terminals replaced and some bypass jobs returned to original according to the 1967 wiring diagram on this site, with continuity between most appropriate ends checked . Currently the battery is getting no charge. The schematic shows just one wire from the battery, being the cable to the starter, but another wire (black) from the starter terminal to the ammeter, then the white from the ammeter to the fuse block. Here is where my wiring differs. I have one 10 gauge white from the battery to the fuse block by way of in front of the radiator. On the same terminal on the fuse block is a heavy black wire which I am pretty sure goes to the ammeter. The ammeter also has a heavy white wire but I don't recall ever checking where it went. The ammeter doesn't work during starting or running. Before installing the alternator, which I believe is the original, I motored it and it made current. I have two wires on the starter terminal besides the cable end, one being probably 12 gauge black, which appeared to be correct during inspection but now is suspect.

The major thing right now is that I just noticed an unused large wire terminal on the uppermost post on the alternator, that I had labeled "white, fuse block/battery" which tells me that I missed it during assembly and that I need to run a wire from this post to the battery probably #10. It appears also that I need to find if and where the white off the alternator connects to the extra black off the starter. OR, do I instead run from the ammeter to the starter, removing the white which I can't verify? One wire that I removed during dis-assembly was one with two fusible links in it that ran over the top of the transmission from the fuse block.

[Curtis]

What is the correct pathway for the current to get from my alternator to my battery? The car came off the road in 2002 due to trouble shooting a no battery charge condition. I have been performing a major overhaul since Feb of 2015 and have it nearly done. Motor and both major wire harnesses were removed and most terminals labeled. The wire harnesses were closely inspected and a number of terminals replaced and some bypass jobs returned to original according to the 1967 wiring diagram on this site, with continuity between most appropriate ends checked . Currently the battery is getting no charge. The schematic shows just one wire from the battery, being the cable to the starter, but another wire (black) from the starter terminal to the ammeter, then the white from the ammeter to the fuse block. Here is where my wiring differs. I have one 10 gauge white from the battery to the fuse block by way of in front of the radiator. On the same terminal on the fuse block is a heavy black wire which I am pretty sure goes to the ammeter. The ammeter also has a heavy white wire but I don't recall ever checking where it went. The ammeter doesn't work during starting or running. Before installing the alternator, which I believe is the original, I motored it and it made current. I have two wires on the starter terminal besides the cable end, one being probably 12 gauge black, which appeared to be correct during inspection but now is suspect.

The major thing right now is that I just noticed an unused large wire terminal on the uppermost post on the alternator, that I had labeled "white, fuse block/battery" which tells me that I missed it during assembly and that I need to run a wire from this post to the battery probably #10. It appears also that I need to find if and where the white off the alternator connects to the extra black off the starter. OR, do I instead run from the ammeter to the starter, removing the white which I can't verify? One wire that I removed during dis-assembly was one with two fusible links in it that ran over the top of the transmission from the fuse block.

This is how it is supposed to be wired.

http://www.kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsun_ ... _66_67.pdf

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As posted earlier I have an overheating problem on my 67.5 1600
According to the laser therm the highest reading is on the therm tower
I have decided to remove the thermostat to determine weather its bad
I then will reverse flush w/vinegar
Is there any down side to this thinking?
Thnx
T

[notoptoy]

No, it's a good plan. Boil the OLD thermostat in a pan of water and see if it opens as it should - that will tell you real quick if it is the problem. What temp thermostat? there are 165 and 180 degree models, you may want to try the 165.

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180
couldnt find the part # for the 165

Removed Therm and ran car for 1/2 hour in the garage and temp gauge never went above 185
Apparently the new thermostat is defective
Thnx to all that offered support
T

[2mAn]

Lower Chain Tensioner. Is that bad enough to replace, or is it a "might as well replace it" because its out?