The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

[Alvin]

Ok, but here is my question: Is this tach super rare?

Simon, I'm excited to see the purple car out on the track! The (current?)previous owner is Gary Wasserman. He had a story about the gauge and showed me a photo album with detailed shots many years ago. Here is more info on it, though not conclusive:



viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19665&p=170060&hili ... ry#p170060

[2mAn]

man, thats such a cool piece... is that the only one ever seen?

[Alvin]

From 2008, before the gauge was restored!

[Shaundeegan]

Make sure the car is standing still when you try to reset it - it it's rolling, you will damage the reset and your trip odometer will not work again.
Tom

The trip odometer reset but it and the odometer don't work. Looks like I'll be delving into past posts to figure out that fix.
Thanks, Shaun

[Shaundeegan]

@Shaundeega

re broken hinge bolt.

don't KNOW this but see potential danger of door alignment. Since the 'plate' s a captive one, that slides in the a-pillar, if the helicoil is too big, you might run the risk of screwing up alignment.

Perhaps overkill suggestion, is to align door just using the 4/3 bolts or 3/4 bolts, depending upon which plate is damaged, THEN you can helicoil - IF you need to. This way, you can be sure that the helicoil won't interfere with alignment.

I may be being overcautious, but just a thought. You might find that you don't need it anyway, if it interferes.

Frankly, I would think that tapping it slightly bigger, would be a better solution. And indeed, retapping thread might even work.

Peter, I started to type this suggestion in my response then deleted it thinking that it might be too involved. What I was going to suggest is removing the door, (I Have had my doors off and on at least a dozen times in the last four years), And removing the hinge from the door and bolting it onto the A post. The hinge could then be used as a guide while drilling for the tap. This would insure alignment. I took a look at the captive plate and it looks like only 4mm thick, so I think that the harder steel of a Helicoil would be beneficial.

Lots of food for thought. Thank you, both . What do I have to lose with tapping and rereading? If that fails I can heli Coil. I appreciate both of your inputs.
Shaun

[theunz]

I would try retapping first. If you can get it to just hold the bolt snug than the other three should be sufficient to keep the door in place. If no luck there than I would just drill and tap the bad hole to the next size up.

[Ralph]

Any quick pros & cons to upgrading to an electric radiator fan (Looks like an engine pull is in the cards and I'm at the "While I'm here I might as well..." stage) U20 with Champion rad, alternator already upgraded.

[Gregs672000]

I love the electric, no worries in traffic, quiet, saves a hp or two, less stress on water pump, easier access to the crank bolt. No brainer for me!

[greydog]

Eliminating the stock fans eliminated the shrouds which opened up the front of the engine.
Efan only runs when needed.
Added Efans to both cars when moving alt so easy to do then.
Easy to go back to stock if you don't like it.

Cons? Added wiring. Maybe another pound. Appearance if you're a factory or nothing guy. Draw on electric system may be a problem if all is stock.
Dan

[Ralph]

Sounds like more pros than cons...any suggested brands & part #s?

Not worried about the factory of nothing at this point. It's a 1600 4 speed originally now with U20/5spd ... still have the old powertrain so if the next owner wants to re-install, they can fly at it

[2mAn]

Are you guys running your e-fans are pushers or pullers?

[greydog]

Both mine are pullers. 14" low profile 2200cfm from ebay.
Dan

[C.Costine]

@Shaundeega

re broken hinge bolt.

don't KNOW this but see potential danger of door alignment. Since the 'plate' s a captive one, that slides in the a-pillar, if the helicoil is too big, you might run the risk of screwing up alignment.

Perhaps overkill suggestion, is to align door just using the 4/3 bolts or 3/4 bolts, depending upon which plate is damaged, THEN you can helicoil - IF you need to. This way, you can be sure that the helicoil won't interfere with alignment.

I may be being overcautious, but just a thought. You might find that you don't need it anyway, if it interferes.

Frankly, I would think that tapping it slightly bigger, would be a better solution. And indeed, retapping thread might even work.

Peter, I started to type this suggestion in my response then deleted it thinking that it might be too involved. What I was going to suggest is removing the door, (I Have had my doors off and on at least a dozen times in the last four years), And removing the hinge from the door and bolting it onto the A post. The hinge could then be used as a guide while drilling for the tap. This would insure alignment. I took a look at the captive plate and it looks like only 4mm thick, so I think that the harder steel of a Helicoil would be beneficial.

Lots of food for thought. Thank you, both . What do I have to lose with tapping and rereading? If that fails I can heli Coil. I appreciate both of your inputs.
Shaun

The part where you said that the hole is now a little larger is what made me think that tapping the existing hole is not a viable alternative.

[mraitch]

For those of you who have ever wondered what actually happens when you install a GM alternator WITHOUT initially installing the requisite 30A inline fuse - voila

[attachment=1]Ammeter Full size.jpg[/attachment]

The solder melts and the "resistance (?) wire" springs away from the post.
[attachment=0]Ammeter-Molten Solder.jpg[/attachment]

And I guess, if one is good with a soldering iron, one could conceivably repair it.

Since I'm NOT, does anyone have a working ammeter that I might acquire?

Or conversely, is there anyone out there in roadster land that is handy enough??

[Curtis]

I would bypass it, put an inline fuse in and look for the thread on here for converting the late ammeter to a voltmeter.