headlights relay wires

[fj20spl311]

Once you have the circuit working from the relay, we need to check the relay.
With your volt meter on resistance we need to check which terminal are DM and SB.
S controls the solenoid and B powers the solenoid and the headlights.
There should be a resistance reading between the S and B, M terminals and No resistance between the B and M terminal.
If you have the lid off, you might be able to follow the wires. The wire that goes into the coil only is the S, the wire that goes to the metal arm and into the coil is the B terminal. There should be no resistance between the arm and the B or M terminals. When you manually press on the arm the M terminal will disconnect and the D will connect.

Clear as mud.....

[Lorna c]

Once you have the circuit working from the relay, we need to check the relay.
With your volt meter on resistance we need to check which terminal are DM and SB.
S controls the solenoid and B powers the solenoid and the headlights.
There should be a resistance reading between the S and B, M terminals and No resistance between the B and M terminal.
If you have the lid off, you might be able to follow the wires. The wire that goes into the coil only is the S, the wire that goes to the metal arm and into the coil is the B terminal. There should be no resistance between the arm and the B or M terminals. When you manually press on the arm the M terminal will disconnect and the D will connect.

Clear as mud.....

ok I'll do that . I ran some tests yesterday and I'm not sure which I was testing but it sounds rite . I even figured out that others work when pushing down on the arm to switch it on so to speak . that's why I put it back on .... but I didn't know what I was doing so going through it knowing what's up will help me remember . thx ... as soon as I get the coil correct I'll do it too.

[Lorna c]

!	Message from: fj20spl311

OOPS,
Looking at your system, you have a PASSING LIGHT RELAY. Three wires RED/WHITE, RED, BLACK. Disconnect the RED/ WHITE and RED wires.

The light blub I would suggest is a PAR36 12V

is that the old school light or ? mine came in, I like them , my old ones work still I'm tired of how dull they can be though ... but this might make y'all cringe but, I got an LED with Halo .. I didn't go colored Halo only white but it's nice and crisp .. this baby's a spotlight oh high beam . haha .. ok let me reread through your texts so I can follow them .

[Lorna c]

First let me say, I have not read through your posts.

OOPS,
Looking at your system, you have a PASSING LIGHT RELAY. Three wires RED/WHITE, RED, BLACK. Disconnect the RED/ WHITE and RED wires.


My suggestion would be to test the wiring from the relay to the head lights first.
On a 68, the headlights are switched on the Hot side of circuit.
Disconnect the Red/Black and Red/white wires.
Make an Extension wire of equal size wire to go to the battery. Extend the Red/Black wire so that you can "flash" the wire extension on the plus battery terminal. The high beams should flash on. If they do, than you can connect the wire to the battery and check to see if both sides are working.
Same procedure for the Red/White wire to check the Low Beams.

If this is Too Cowboy for you....LOL.....
Put a current limiter in the circuit, I have always liked an old school "Malibu" light....NOT an LED replacement. I tried to find one on the net, but maybe they have been replaced. You want something of about 3-6 amps, 18W-36W
You could use a Circuit breaker or even an old headlamp blub or fog light.

is that the same relay or another off to the side . this relay has 4 wires . black w/red band. red w/yellow . red w/blk . and red w/wt. .. idk if that voids out your instructions so I'll wait to hear back from ya'll

[Lorna c]

Once you have the circuit working from the relay, we need to check the relay.
With your volt meter on resistance we need to check which terminal are DM and SB.
S controls the solenoid and B powers the solenoid and the headlights.
There should be a resistance reading between the S and B, M terminals and No resistance between the B and M terminal.
If you have the lid off, you might be able to follow the wires. The wire that goes into the coil only is the S, the wire that goes to the metal arm and into the coil is the B terminal. There should be no resistance between the arm and the B or M terminals. When you manually press on the arm the M terminal will disconnect and the D will connect.

Clear as mud.....

and idk if this helps but I've opened it and #1 and #2 are under the coil thing inside . the 3&4 are under the clicker side with the switch thing . if that helps ??

[fj20spl311]

That's a head light relay. You will need to use your volt meter to convert 1,2 to S or B and 3,4 to D or M

The reason I want you to disconnect the passing light relay is because if bad could be confusing the problem.

You can use your old "dim" headlight as a current limiter, its on the high side of current and I would prefer you get a PAR36 blub....maybe $5 at the local hardware store if you at lucky.

If you want to email me directly, it my user name @ yahoo.com

[Lorna c]

Once you have the circuit working from the relay, we need to check the relay.
With your volt meter on resistance we need to check which terminal are DM and SB.
S controls the solenoid and B powers the solenoid and the headlights.
There should be a resistance reading between the S and B, M terminals and No resistance between the B and M terminal.
If you have the lid off, you might be able to follow the wires. The wire that goes into the coil only is the S, the wire that goes to the metal arm and into the coil is the B terminal. There should be no resistance between the arm and the B or M terminals. When you manually press on the arm the M terminal will disconnect and the D will connect.

Clear as mud.....

I get what your saying now .. at least the first part now the metal arm , which do u mean theirs kinda two on top each other , but not connected I believe u speak of . the one is copper comes from the other side and stays on top of both sides and does the bouncing up and down to trigger the switch I'm guessing . .. the other is metal and forms a block C shape around everything staying to the outside of things and staying on one half of it ... if that makes sense..? now which.of those explanation s do you mean for S and B ?

[Lorna c]

never mind on re explain . I think I understand after.a.few reads now

[fj20spl311]

Maybe this picture will help. This is my best guess on S and B.
Its also inline with the wiring diagram. I marked the arm that might be rotated...as lone as its not making contact with any other metal parts of the relay its OK.


Does this help?

[Lorna c]

now using my pic . S B M D S reads on B S reads on M . S does not read on D until I push the copper arm then D reads . that's when M shuts down . and when I let go it switches back . now B shows read with S And M but when I push the copper arm it stops and D comes on . so basically the act the exact same ! my S and B are responding the same down the line ??

[Lorna c]

which goes where I can't tell under that green tape .

[Lorna c]

looks to me that S goes to coil only . and B runs to the copper arm when I line up wire to post connection on first one ie: S on my picture ..

[Lorna c]

sorry but everytime I go to explain it I get reconfused so that was the easiest way for me to explain it to you I hope I didn't confuse you..

[Lorna c]

and I think I need a new relay . I'm not liking the reliability of this m Wiggly m that's not wiggly anymore but it's not always consistent either

[Lorna c]

Maybe this picture will help. This is my best guess on S and B.
Its also inline with the wiring diagram. I marked the arm that might be rotated...as lone as its not making contact with any other metal parts of the relay its OK.


Does this help?

and yes it did help . thanks