Lower spinal link rebuild

[Gregs672000]

I had the suspension looked at yesterday, and they felt the lower spindle links needed attention. These probably have a lot of miles on them, and I know one is not taking grease these days. Kits are available but not cheap of course. What typically needs to be replaced? What wears? Can the threads be rebuilt, welded up and recut? Will replacing the bushings fix problems? Thanks as always.

[fj20spl311]

You can replace the caps if you can find them. Some times you can turn the spindle over/around. I would not waste my time.
Its a lot of work and they are not that pricey, should last tens of thousands miles if greased.
I am a little surprised that no one makes replacement complete lower control arms with improved lower spindle bearing and screw in ball joints.

[Curtis]

.......
I am a little surprised that no one makes replacement complete lower control arms with improved lower spindle bearing and screw in ball joints.

Sounds interesting. I thought there was someone that converted to a different ball joint. There has to be a better design for the spindle.

[Gregs672000]

They are near $700 for the both side kit, so not "cheap" even if they last forever. The bushings are available at $56 each x 4. This will probably be a winter project (that I actually WILL DO this winter instead of waiting to the last minute!) so I have time to entertain obtaining good used ones (?) or to rebuild my current ones, or to replace. What do I look for for wear? Since I have access to a great machinist I don't think it would be hard to weld up and recut, but I have not asked yet. Is there anything special I need to know about? Anybody have some decent used ones, or ones they don't want or need anymore and want to donate? I'm pretty sure I stored a set for years from a parts car but they may have gotten tossed during the move. Thanks you all!

[Curtis]

You may be able to weld it, it looks forged. By the time you mess around with it and pay someone to weld it, grind it and recut it you'll be ahead just buying them. I found a good used set on ebay. The threads wear down. Mine were flat on one side. I also bought both upper and lower sets from Nissan when the were still available. Saving the ebay set for the current driver and in the process of putting the new ones on the restoration car.

I also had to go buy a 3/4' drive socket for my impact wrench just to get the lower ones apart and put them back together.

I will be greasing them on a regular basis. Seems like they need to be taken apart from time to time to get the old grease out and make sure you can pump new grease in.

[fj20spl311]

At $700 I think we need someone to develop an aftermarket replacement lower arm.

[Curtis]

At $700 I think we need someone to develop an aftermarket replacement lower arm.

There is one from Rare Parts and one other I believe.

I don't see it on Rare Parts but I saw one that was a weldment version.

[fj20spl311]

Rare parts shaft has a suggested list of $234.....cost of $210

http://shop.rareparts.com/smtp/shopdisp ... COMPONENTS

[JT68]

Pm'd

[Gregs672000]

Thanks guys, I will research my options and discuss with my friend Steve on what it would take to weld and recut. However, since the rareparts one appears to come with bushings and seals, this looks like a more economical way to go if they will sell to me.

[sunbeam590]

I rebuilt My front suspension 9 years ago, including new drag links and rebuilt Idler, and Kyb shocks, well worth the money as over rough roads my susp is very quiet now, the noise before was bad, I grease every 1000 mls, and if you cant get grease in there do something about it, grease is the key to how long it will last. Cheers..

[Gregs672000]

Thanks Kevin. I'm gonna have a friend evaluate the front end to see what needs to be done over the winter. I hear you on the grease, but I've had that one that simply refused to take anything very often lately (I must have gotten some in there when I had it apart or I would not have put it back together). The front suspension is the next thing on the list. I bought new ball joints years ago during the big group buy run, as well as having swapped out at least the steering box (idler too?) for a newer used one that is in good shape. I have new wheel bearings too that could be installed if needed. Guess there is always something that needs to be done on a 50yr old car that "ain't no trailer queen!" and gets driven hard. I have no idea how many miles are on this car... I don't even track the number of miles on the engine since the rebuilds... it either performs or it doesn't.

[sunbeam590]

Greg, I use a needle point grease gun, and if still cant get the grease in I use a bar for leverage... good you use it. Cheers..

[Curtis]

I had not thought much about the process of greasing these. You hook the grease gun up to the zerk and start pumping and hope it comes out the other end.

The grease has to flow over the end of the spindle and then flow down through the thread(s). Not much space and if you get some gummed up grease over time then it probably won't flow on through. I wonder if you're better off to take the zerk out and use a screw in fitting and grease it? Also if there is a way to flush a solution through there to clean up the old grease?

[gnoplos]

Can anyone help me out? I’m working on rebuilding my control arms and have never dealt with this style of spin-on bushings. What order do I screw things together?

Do I fully install the bushings first and then screw the spindle links into those?

EDIT: I decided to try placing the spindle links in and then screwing the bushings into the arms. I suppose that’s the only real way to do it. I really don’t like this system lol. If these ever fail I’ll be fabricating control arms with modern bushings