Please help E Coast electronic Ignition

[Rdeanc64]

Trying last ditch effort before sending back. First with the old distributor on the car runs perfectly. Things I've done.
1 replaced old distributor with new ei exactly as the old one came out and set timing at 700 RPMs to 16deg with vacuum advance off. I had to remove retaining screw to get timing set. Car idles great but when I give it gas it bogs down and has no power.
2. Removed the gear an moved one slot to the left before direction was exactly vertical to the engine after it was at 11/25 set timing this time distributor was within the marks so I locked it down. Still had same results now power when RPMs increase.
3 rebuilt carbs
4 checked and adjusted valve lash
5 tried another distributor that Tom sent me
6 tried another coil, cap, and rotor
7 checked voltage at coil 12.5v
7 ran temp wire from coil to battery.
Got frustrated and put old distributor back on and it runs great no problems.
8 reinstalled ei distributor thinking I was just going insane
But nothing I do seems to work it idles great timing perfect but as soon as I give it gas it bogs down

Totally frustrated
Anyone else ever have this issue?

[GeoffM]

Have a look at this thread from way back....lots of great info.
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... tor#p59194

Also, when you swap back and forth between distributors, do you bypass the ballast resistor?

[Rdeanc64]

Yes I do bypass the resistor I have looked at the thred one guy had a problem that sounded a lot like mine but it never says if he resolved the problem. I reached out to him but no answer. The only difference was his was a 2000 mine is a 1970 1600

[GeoffM]

If it was me, I would put the slot back to where it should be while also being mindful of the correct slot offset and then check the rotor position at #1Cyl TDC. Make sure they are aligned. That's how I solved my problem. I used the old 'pinky down the spark plug hole' technique and found out I was a tooth off (and 180 degree off as well)

[Rdeanc64]

First pic is the original gear setting with points distributor. Car ran perfectly with rotor pointing toward the 4th cylinder on the cap this was #1 cylinder when I installed ei distributor this way there was not enough adjustment to be able to lock it down. So I turned it until I was able to get to a timing of 16 degrees, car idled great but runs like crap when RPMs go up

[Rdeanc64]

This pic is the new gear setting was able to set timing and lock down distributor but Sam results idles good runs like crap when RPMs go up

[Linda]

Are the springs intact inside the EI?
Is the matchbox plugged in well?
Is the advance plate working?
I am not sure but I don't think the EI includes a new advance diaphram.
Does the EI distributor tang match the tang on the OE distributor with the rotor then pointing to the same dizzy terminal, #1?
Random thoughts.
Linda

[Rdeanc64]

Yes this is a new east coast distributor an tom was good enough to send me another one but both do the same thing. Tangs match, yes it is plugged in

[Mainer311]

Did you upgrade your ignition coil to a 12V coil at the same time?

[keith0alan]

Try this and get back. On the electronic distributor take the cap and rotor off. Take the high tension wire from the coil off the cap and attach a spark plug and lay it somewhere convenient. Get out your timing light and hook the sensor to the coil lead. This will cause the light to fire four times for each turn of the distributor. With the cap off turn the engine over and look at the stator and rotor on the distributor. It should fire when the vanes are lined up. If it fires between vanes there is an internal wiring problem, the green and red wire are backwards. The one I have requires the wires to be opposite from the labeling to work properly.

[23yrRebuild]

When I first installed my EI, I had a very similar problem, ...try a timing light to check for vacuum and mechanical advance. Mine wasn't showing enough advance. On my EI, the vacuum can and the module was limiting my rotation to set the timing correctly. I tried adjusting the gear drive a notch at a time all the way around trying to get the adjustment correct, along with moving the plug / cap firing positions. Nothing seemed to work, so I finally put it back where it belonged at 11:25, and used a dremel and file to lengthen the adjustment plate slot just a small bit till I could get enough adjustment travel to where it would advance and accelerate the way it should. I couldn't find any another way, but this was an easy fix after everything else.....

[Gregs672000]

As above, my first test would be to see if the timing is advancing on the crank with the light. Bet it's not.

[Rdeanc64]

OK as for the trying to see where its firing according to the stator position I tried that but it's moving so fast I can't tell l.
I have tried using the timing light to see if it is advancing and yes it is.
And as far as lengthening the adjustment plate not sure this would help using 11/25 an setting the distributor 16 degrees btdc it still runs good but only at idle when you go up in RPMs it sounds boggy and has no power. If I set the distributor at around 30 degrees btdc it runs better but not sure that is good to do

[keith0alan]

Use the timing light to check where the stator is when fires. The car will not start of course but you will be able to see where it fires. If it isn't fireing when the vanes line up it will be really hard to get it to run right. BTDT

[Rdeanc64]

I watched the timing light turned over the car lights flashing stator is spinning. Sorry but this is all happening so fast you would have to have a slow motion camera to see it happen