distrubutor identify and gap/dwell set

[msampsel]

One other factor to keep in mind is having proper weight oil in the carbs themselves to keep the piston from raising too fast when you stomp on it...marvel mystery oil or ATF works well.

Another source is 3:1 oil (20 wt). The little bottle it comes in makes for easy filling

[Lorna c]

Yes on the ATF . And thank u on those slightly different instructions . That mad timing alot easier and faster than the ,I have no idea but sounds ok here , kinda way .. have a quick question though on the needle post I was reading yesterday . Do you know who does that exchange or something I read ? I have these and with this number written on the side it's making me think my guy who rebuild this may have somebodys or not returned or something . Something made me think while reading that post that maybe these are his .. do you know what I'm talking about ?

[Lorna c]

The needle also slides into a fuel nozzle, and they can wear too. Carefully replacing your needles may help but might not completely solve the issue. How much have you played with the adjustment dial on the bottom of the carbs/fuel nozzle? Tightening it causes the nozzle to raise up, leaning the mixture since it moves the nozzle further up the gradually thickening needle. If the needle is worn (thinner) or the nozzle is wider more fuel gets pulled past the needle/nozzle by the engines vacuum causing a rich mix. Start the car and get her warm, and check your air flow on both carbs to make sure they are balanced and flowing equally (you will need an air flow measuring device, like a unisyn or similar... ask about it if you don't have one) then replace the old plugs with new plugs so you are starting clean. Fully lean out the carbs by Tightening the dial on the fuel nozzle to fully tight, then turn it out say a full turn or two, keeping both equal for each carb (keep track, there is a raised bump on the dial to help you figure out if you went a full turn as I recall). Start the car (if it won't start or stay running then increase the fuel by loosening the dial equally on both carbs until it does), and once warm do the "raise the piston in the carb" test by pushing up the push pin on the underside of the carb... it raises the carb piston a bit, essentially turning off THAT carb and TESTING THE OTHER carb. The engine rpm should go up slightly, then the engine should act like it's running on two cylinders but should keep running. If it does run you know that carb is delivering enough fuel, otherwise richen the mix on the carb you are testing (NOT the one you're pushing up the piston on) by a half turn looser and recheck, adjusting until it does as described. Then move to the other carb and do the same thing, keeping the adjustments the same carb to carb. Now, rev the engine and if it pops or backfires through the carbs then it's too lean. If OK, read your plugs... black too rich, tan just right, white too lean. You only need to check plugs on 1 and 3 or 2 and 4, but you can check all 4 if you like. Adjust your dial accordingly and see if you can get her to idle well and not huff black out the tail pipe at idle, and continue to check your plugs with the goal of getting them tan in color while not backfiring through the carb (always means the fuel mix is too lean). You also want to read the plugs after a bit of a drive, so take it out for a drive and see how she runs... given enough time you will start to feel how the engine runs if it's too lean... it has a "starving" feeling... not just flat but kinda jumpy but hesitates. Too rich will be just flat and boggy. Find a very long straight somewhere where you can drive the car at say 4000rpm for a bit, then quickly but safely pull over and shut the engine off quickly, not allowing it to idle or decelerate for long (I would actually shut off the car as I let off the pedal and coast to the side, but be sure to not lock your steering wheel when you switch off the ignition!), pull your plugs and read them (bring cloth gloves, they're HOT)... that should give you an idea of how it is running while being driven, as your idle mix with worn carb needles can be rich due to worn parts and you can sometimes lean it out and make it right (tan plugs) AT IDLE but be too lean elsewhere which is not good for the engine (safer for the engine to be too rich vs too lean). It may be a compromise, and as parts wear out it will get harder to get it to work properly everywhere until the nozzles and needles are changed out, and hopefully the throttle shafts themselves are not worn so much that they allow too much air past them, causing a lean condition (intake leak). This is a process as you make adjustments, try them out, read plugs, etc over and over until you get the best adjustment.
Hope this Helps! This process is why I LOVE having a wide band Air/Fuel meter for my car, as I don't have to read plugs anymore and just KNOW what the carbs (in my case Dellortos) are doing all the time.

ooh , the carb thing I've been doing wrong /backwards .. haha oh good . I knew it was something stupid . when I lift a carb I adjust that carb . well now it makes sense .... ok ... and thanks again !