Best alternator option

[Copterpilot]

Will this alternator fit on either side? I'm considering trying to put it in the normal spot as I looked through my parts stash and don't have the smog bracket to use to switch over to the other side.

[Solex68]

Yes.
Mine started life in the normal position (what a pain to get to w/Solexes) and then it switched sides a couple of weeks ago. You do need the smog bracket though.

[khalifa]

Recently the RPM gauge on my 67 ½ 1600 starting wave back and forth wildly. I have noticed some other electrical problems such as the Fuel and Temp gauges they works and some time failures.
I wonder what the cause for failures?
Do I need to swap alternator, but what the best alternator option?

[notoptoy]

The RPM Gauge (Tachometer) is mechanical, and unrelated to the other gauges, so either the cable is bad, or more likely, the internals of the Tachometer are on their way out unfortunately.
The other gauges there are two likely culprits 1) the gauge voltage regulator - lots of threads on that, but it is a small 1" x 3" metal "can" under the dash near the ignition switch. This controls the voltage to all the gauges and is frequently the source of problem. 2) A bad, or multiple bad, grounds on the dashboard.
I would try simply removing, cleaning the contacts and replacing the gauge voltage regulator, especially the surfaces where the case screws to the dash, as that is the ground for it.

[Gregs672000]

See Notoptoy's thread above. I will just suggest you get the tach disconnected before it goes completely and becomes unrepairable. Pull the cable from the housing at the distributor and make sure it is undamaged, then try lubing with graphite or similar. However, it probably is internal to the tach. Take it out (not hard) and take it to a speedo or other such instrument shop and see what they say. Where are you located???? QATAR??? If you disconnect the cable from the tach side, make sure you don't catch the cable on loose clothes etc when the engine is running as it twists around and grabs things (I know!).

[DaRoaster]

I recommend the Bosch version of the 280Z alternator, it's lighter and our cars don't need that many amps. The bigger GM alternator will rob you of slightly more horsepower. Get the smog bracket, and appropriate bolts to run it on the passenger side. One issue I ran into was the cooling tower puts the radiator hose on the adjuster bracket, and the vibration from the motor will slowly wear into the hose. You can deal with that by fabricating a custom thermostat housing as I did, leaving the radiator cap there, or use a radiator that has a cap on it like the 2 liter cars. There's a thread of what I did somewhere on this site with pictures.

[Copterpilot]

I recommend the Bosch version of the 280Z alternator, it's lighter and our cars don't need that many amps. The bigger GM alternator will rob you of slightly more horsepower. Get the smog bracket, and appropriate bolts to run it on the passenger side. One issue I ran into was the cooling tower puts the radiator hose on the adjuster bracket, and the vibration from the motor will slowly wear into the hose. You can deal with that by fabricating a custom thermostat housing as I did, leaving the radiator cap there, or use a radiator that has a cap on it like the 2 liter cars. There's a thread of what I did somewhere on this site with pictures.

I looked at the 280ZX alternator, and it has 3 ears while the one off my 68 has just 2. So I don't think it will work with the later cars unless there is some trick to make it fit.

[DaRoaster]

The 60-amp Bosch AL 241 X alternator is what I'm talking about. There is a version with two tabs. Make sure you get the right pulley. It was assigned to the Pulsar, some Nissan trucks, and the Subaru GL. FWIW, I preferred this alternator to the 1-wire GM.

Search threads in archive for "alternator alternatives": http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13320" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Lots of good info here.

I looked at the 280ZX alternator, and it has 3 ears while the one off my 68 has just 2. So I don't think it will work with the later cars unless there is some trick to make it fit.

[Curtis]

The 60-amp Bosch AL 241 X alternator is what I'm talking about. There is a version with two tabs. Make sure you get the right pulley. It was assigned to the Pulsar, some Nissan trucks, and the Subaru GL. FWIW, I preferred this alternator to the 1-wire GM.

Search threads in archive for "alternator alternatives": http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13320" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Lots of good info here.

I looked at the 280ZX alternator, and it has 3 ears while the one off my 68 has just 2. So I don't think it will work with the later cars unless there is some trick to make it fit.

I went with the 50 amp version al 238x as noted in the thread listed here. I got mine for $35 but they can run more. Bought a spare. And as also noted you do have to modify the alternator bracket.

[Geistfahrar]

I am hooking onto this old thread, in the hope that Fergus O might notice & give me some good insight on the GM alt he obtained, and any problems he encountered. It appears that most of the members went with a GM alt ( search provided no numbers though ). Google search on Bosch alts only turned up re-mans with serpentine pulleys. I don't plan on revving beyond 5K, but would be more comfortable with pully that matches OEM groove diameter. Part numbers in posts don't match the ones in the Wiki (??).

I want to put a replacement alt on the passenger side while I still have the radiator & water pump off. Like Fergus, I would like to keep the ammeter enabled ( high windshield , padded dash 2L ). Details on adding a digital voltmeter would be appreciated ( I am not electrically challenged ). I have all the smog bracketry, plus ( of course ) the current OEM hot-side alt brackets.

Posts seem to indicate that there will be no upper radiator hose clearance problems with a 2L pass-side install, but please correct me if I am mistaken.
I have a good 3/4 HP bandsaw, so cutting the nose of the smog bracket down, & cutting tube-stock for spacers is not a big deal. I have a small drill press, so I could enlarge a non-GM pully hole if I have to, but would prefer to find a matching pully that will not fly apart at 5K RPM.

Thanks for any help & info ---

Garry S.

[greydog]

I have a Denso 45 amp alty on the 2000, a GM 10si in tje 1600.
Mounting is the same, both work well. Tje Denso is much smaller but I dont find the 10si size to be objectionable.
I think either would be just fine.
The 10si is probably most available.
Dan

[nismou20]

There's great info in Wiki tech I followed on the GM Alt and he lists part # and the wiring connections. I just completed mine a couple mo ago and regularly romp on up to 6K+ with no issues. Hi windscreen retains Amp gauge and throttle blips start the charging. So simple 60 amp Alt. Must do unless you're a purist. No more pulling radiator or fight getting to that pivot Bolt down under again!

[Tonymig]

Ok so I bought the gm alternator which is slightly larger then the Mitsubishi had to remove radiator to get it in. After install I put the old belt back on and tightened it up. I noticed it was actually touching the steering box . I went to get another belt slightly shorter by 1/2” I could not get it on. So I put the old belt back on and slightly release it away from the steering box (what ever it’s called ) and it seems to been doing ok. It’s charging not squealing and more importantly not hitting the steering box. I want to get it on the other side. Dumb location.

[nismou20]

Did you move it to passenger side or is it still on drivers? You need the smog brackets to relocate it.

[Tonymig]

I have not moved it yet. Where’s the best place to get brackets to move alternator to passenger side also best place to get a new alternator as a back up to my new gm alternator. Thanks. Tonymig