Leaking Radiator / Thermostat replacement / R16 Hoses

[bikermike]

While on a road trip over the weekend I developed a radiator leak. It started with just a whiff of coolant smell and developed into a pinhole leak that trickled under pressure. I got home ok and didn't lose too much coolant.

It looks like the leak is where the fan shroud came in contact with one of the tubes. It is likely a few more tubes are on their way.

radiator leak.JPG

Question:
Should there be a spacer or washer between the shroud mounting tab and the radiator bracket to provide some clearance?
There will be when I reinstall.

From looking at receipts, a previous owner had it "repaired and cleaned" in 1992. I don't know if it is 2 tube or 3 tube.
Question:
Does anyone know how thick a 3 tube radiator is?

Question:
If this is the only leak, is it repairable, or will I need to look at a replacement or recore?

While I am at it I'll be changing hoses and the thermostat. Luckily the tower wasn't too much of a chore to remove. One of the studs was a challenge, but I followed the advice in previous posts:
-removed top (2 nuts and 2 screws)
-tapped tower w/ rubber mallet and determined that only 1 stud was seized
-double-nutted looser stud to remove
-sprayed seized stud with penetrating oil
-tapped again w/ mallet to dislodge the tower
-replaced 1st stud loosely to keep tower from spinning
-double nutted 2nd stud to turn and remove.

It looks like I can reuse the studs. I cleaned them up w/ a wire bush and will apply some anti-seize before reinstall.

The thermostat that was in there is a 180* one, which explains my 190* running temp. It was doing its job.
A link to some 180* thermostat part #s.
http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... 56#p165007

I haven't searched past posts on R16 hoses yet. If you have some links or part #'s please share.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

[Gregs672000]

Mike, I think the wiki has some rad hose options, at least for the U20. I went to Rockauto and got both upper and lower (likely for a later U20 but I can modify them a bit to work, top should work fine). They were on clearance for half price (woo hoo!).

Should have no problem fixing the rad for the minor leak. Might get it boiled out while it's out... I had a leak at the overflow tube and had mine boiled out even though it was fairly new (3 core) just because.

[bikermike]

I came across this diagram.

Radiator & shroud.jpg

Notice the cutout in the bottom half of the shroud? Mine was installed with the cutout on top. In fact it wouldn't fit the other way. Just doing a sanity check. What do your R16 shrouds look like?

[spl310]

Cutout at the top iirc.

[bikermike]

Seeking references for San Jose or SF Peninsula area radiator shops if you have one...

[dbrick]

Dean has 3 core rebuilds on an exchange for your 2 core as long as the tanks are in good shape. about $350.00. Not really a plug for Dean, just giving a reference number. If a shop quotes your 2 core for anything close to 2/3 of that price, I would go with the 3 core replacement. Worth asking the local shop to quote you for a 3 core.
The aluminum units run about $200.00 - $250.00, Work well, but do look out of place on a stock car. I used a Champion, there are a bunch on Evilbay, not all say who makes them.

[Terry Z]

I just replaced my old radiator with a 3 core from dean. Fits great. The cutout on shroud was at the top on my 67.5 1600 as well. No rubbing issues with radiator and no spacers required.

[68DSU]

I went local and had a three core put in my old radiator. It cost about $350 and I thought I would save the hassle of shipping the core but in hindsight, I think I would have gone with Dean for his experience and knowledge that he has with the parts.
3 core...$350
Peace of mind...Priceless.

[bikermike]

Radiator Update:
Dean was out of stock and I didn't feel like waiting 2 weeks and dealing with shipping. I found a small local 1 man shop in San Jose who provided a quote after a phone call and a review of photos I sent via text message. He honored the quote when I went down to the shop and discussed options for cores. I showed him how the shroud had come in contact w/ the core and he agreed to adjust how the bracket mounts to the tanks in order to avoid interference.

The job was finished as promised. When I picked it up he showed me his process and tools. He will post a youtube video shortly that I'll share. I'll post some pics later on as well.

Price was $250 total out the door for a new 3 row core with a 3yr guarantee. He said in California he recommends sourcing cores from Beko. He would not provide such a guarantee on other cores.

I'll put it back in the car on Friday or Saturday in time for a Sunday fun run. Once everything is back together and running cool I'll share the shop's name and details as an endorsement.

Hoses:
For you R16 fans out there, I found a top hose that looks like a good fit. It is a Dayco 70704.

Thermostat:
As noted in another post - Stant 45858 - 180*
http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... nt#p165007

[Linda]

I wonder if you can order the core from Beko and then have a local shop put it together?
They would likely need the exact measurements
Linda

[bikermike]

He had a catalog on his desk and called them to confirm stock when I was there. I don't know if they sell direct to the public. You can probably ask your local shop where they source from so the whole assembly is guaranteed as a unit.

Aside from width, height and row count, there were options for # of fins per inch along the tubes and spacing between tubes.

A "high efficiency" core had more tubes with tighter spacing. I was a little concerned about restricting airflow since I am running a stock fan. The previous 3 row I had in the car was up to the task so I didn't opt to change things up too much.

[Terry Z]

Gates hose 21162. This one hose will replace upper and lower hose on your 67.5 SPL311 for under 20 dollars. On Ebay now with good picture so you know what I'm talking about. Will save my NOS braided hoses for a rainy day.

[JMartin]

BikerMike; I'm glad the Stant 45858 worked on the 1600 as well. I purchased it for the 2000, and liked the fact it had a pressure relief valve in it. when I posted the info, I wasn't sure if this was both a US and a Canadian number

Terry Z: Will the Gates 21162 fit just the 1600's? That is a very good price. Too bad I just changed mine. The Dayco upper rad hose mentioned in the post link above is (IIRC) a Chevy hose. I cut off about 2 inches, and it fit the 2000 just fine.

[bikermike]

Thanks for the tip on the Gates 21162 hose. I cross referenced to a Goodyear 61167 that my local parts shop had in stock. It looks like it will do the trick.

I came across this site w/ instructions on where to cut.
http://www.datsun2000.com/tech/nissan_part_numbers.htm

"The hose is a Gates 21162 lower molded hose, 1-1/4" ID. This hose has a sharp bend on one end that attaches to the the water pump . The opposite end has a gentle bend which will become the upper hose. Measuring from the gentle bend end, measure 9" up on the OUTSIDE curve of bend, cut the hose square and clean (I used a simple razor knife). This cut off end is now your new upper hose.

Install the now shorter lower hose at the radiator end first, do not tighten the clamp yet. Install the other sharp curved end onto the water pump, again do not clamp down yet. Now look down and check that you have clearance from the fan belt and pulley. If the hose is touching or too close for comfort all you need to do is reach down and give the hose a little twist on the bottom end to the right to create more space. That should do it. Now tighten those clamps. The upper hose installs simply. It will go on either way, but try both because one way fits better."

[JMartin]

Mike;

I didn't see that site before, I will have to look it up. Thanks for that tip. I put mine on the radiator and then laid in onto the water pump and simply cut off the excess.