Flat dash conversion. A work in progress.

[MSmethers]

After spending hours scouring the search function and perusing hundreds of pictures, I found the most helpful to be the post by "Pebbles" and info obtained via Michael Spreadbury. I did not find a thread or info walking through step by step. So.....

This is neither the right way, wrong way, or only way, it's just how I'm doing mine. 1967 dash top, 67.5 dash face into a high windshield 1970. Thanks to Paul "Phred58" for the windshield Rubber piece, it was indispensable for this project.

After much time pondering, trial fitting and planning, time to dig in.

The hardest part was making that first initial cut. Here I marked out where I thought would be a good starting point. The basic theory is to "Sneak up" on it.


After trimming the ears off, and debating over the upper wiper mount, I hacked it off too knowing that the early dash carries the same mount in what appears to be the same place.

The next step was to narrow the dash to fit in between the windshield posts. Turns out this is the largest hanging point in getting the dash into the proper location. I had to cut and grind multiple times to get the dash in far enough. The picture is after the initial narrowing.


Next comes trimming off the leading edge of the dash itself where it drops down to the pinch weld. At first I only took off the outer layer of the pinch weld. You will have to cut off the entire pinch weld and grind the bottom flat.


Now it's getting closer to fitting. I kept the steering column in place and bolted the top to bottom and the center console section to help locate things. Then a couple blocks of wood to prop things up in the neighborhood of where they belong.

I should mention at this point I had a buddies 67 bare shell at the shop as well for easy reference and pulling dimensions. I will sketch something out and scan it in showing what dimensions I used where. I also used an angle finder to check the angle of the dash top to the cowl. The passenger side has a 12 degree difference when measured directly above the glove box latch, and an 18 degree difference on the driver's side just above the steering column.

You will also end up cutting off the entire bottom of the pinch weld and grinding flush.

[MSmethers]

From here out I just kept trimming and trying to fit. The driver's side defrost tube will hit the steering shaft support on the right rear bolt. In trying to come up with a solution, I looked at the 67 and it's only held by 2 bolts. So I just trimmed off that corner. Once that was done, moving the dash in and out with the face bolted to the upper became much easier. The pinch weld that holds the windshield weatherstripping sits 90 degrees to the outer edge of cowl and is kicked back about 30 degrees. Once trimmed at the bottom of that pinch weld, the dash will slide up and under. Once I had it where I thought it needed to be, I took it out once again, drilled 5/16" holes as close to the leading edge as possible, sandblasted and painted the piece top and bottom.


Then bolting the face to the upper and dropping the steering column a bit, slid it home for what I hoped would be the last time. Wrong, more trimming to the sides and taking a bit more off the leading edge of the dash were needed to match the measurements taken. This took a couple more tries, but finally fit to my satisfaction. It is 1/8" further into the cabin than the 67, but square fore and aft and within 1/32" side to side. Close enough for government work.


The sides were tack welded at the windshield posts and I managed one more tack reaching in. At this point it is stable enough to remove the dash face, steering column and console.


Now the ugly part, watching me try and maneuver all 6'3" and 275 lbs onto my back and up under the dash to finish plug welding to the cowl. (I'll save you the gore of posting any pictures of that part.) I did end up building a couple little "L" brackets and welding them to each side just to assure rigidity. In the center, the remainder of the windshield wiper mount made a strong attaching point. You can just see the bracket in the above picture.

I put the windshield gasket back in place to take a few end of the day pictures.




Overall, between yesterday and today, I have less than 8 hrs into the conversion. I still have to build brackets for the dash face to attach to the windshield post. In one of the above pictures, you can see where I had to grind off the screw heads from the horizontal style dash brackets. I'll probably re-bend the side brackets and use nut-serts or just weld 1/4" nuts into the wall.

Back at it tomorrow. Will post an update at the end of the day.

[pebbles]

Excellent work Marshal. I'm still sneaking up on mine.

[Alvin]

WOW. I had no idea it was this much fab work to do it right, thanks for posting a how-to
I appreciate the dash conversion even more
why no '66 dash?
will you also describe gauge/wiring mods?

[notoptoy]

This is a great reference, thanks for taking the time for posting and allowing others to learn from your efforts.

[MSmethers]

WOW. I had no idea it was this much fab work to do it right, thanks for posting a how-to
I appreciate the dash conversion even more
why no '66 dash?
will you also describe gauge/wiring mods?

Not a simple conversion to be sure. As previously stated, the hardest part of the project is making that initial, irreversible first cut.

I've found multiple 67.5 dashes and zero 66's. It's kind of irrelevant anyway based on my gauge requirements. When it comes to gauges, I'm a mechanical guy and will use mechanical over electric everytime. I wanted 5" tach and speedo, 2 5/8 Oil, Water, Fuel Level, Voltmeter, Wideband AFR and a clock. The only black faced Autometers meeting those requirements were the Sport Comps. I'll have to build a face plate for the dash anyway as the 67.5 will fit the 5" and one 2 5/8" the other two holes are just under 3" IIRC. To use the original gauge configuration, I would have had to get rings lasered or waterjetted to keep them from pulling through. I'm lucky in that there are local fab shops that have both the "Laser" (insert Dr. Evil) and a waterjet.

Wiring is a long ways out, but will be covered when I get there.

[MSmethers]

Excellent work Marshal. I'm still sneaking up on mine.

Thanks David, it is time consuming, bringing one of these back to life aye?

[MSmethers]

This is a great reference, thanks for taking the time for posting and allowing others to learn from your efforts.

I've learned so much from my predecessors here on the forum, It's only right to give back a little "Sumpin, sumpin".

I just hope it helps someone down the road, or at least lets them know what they're in for.

[pebbles]

Aye!
My problem is when sitting in the roadster I look through the steering wheel. But I like the seat all the way back. I have the material to shim the column down, (dash will be about 3/4" lower as well), then disassemble all of it blast it put it all back together and weld it.
I left about 1/4" of the car, and trimmed the dash top at the pinch weld so I could locate it all aft 1/4" more. In hindsight, I should have trimmed the car flush as you did and hammer/dolly the window trough to fit.

Thanks for taking the time to put together a proper step by step.

[MSmethers]

Finished up the conversion today and am making a "Clean up" post to the thread. Hopefully, tying up any loose ends.

First off, here is the modification required to make room for the defrost tubing. Cut off the corner that encases the right rear mount bolt. Now there is plenty of room.


Now for some angles and measurements. If you open the full size image, you should be able to read the tape and angle finder.
Starting with the driver side; Angle finder sat on cowl in line with cage nut directly over steering column. You can see that the car/cowl is currently sitting at roughly 2 degrees


Now placing the gauge on the steepest part of the dash on the same line as that of the cowl, roughly 20 degrees. A difference of 18 degrees which perfectly matches the stock 67 angles.


Along the same line, the distance from the front of the cowl to the trailing edge of the dash; OOPs, kinda missed that one. 17 1/2"


From the floor to the edge


Passenger side, following the same line from the cage nut centered over the glove box latch forward. Again 2 degree starting point


onto the dash 17 degrees.


Dimensionally, front to rear 18"


Height is 23 7/8"

[MSmethers]

Face of dash to pinch weld; 1/2"




And yes, the stock 70 windshield wiper motor does mount into place on the 70 lower and 67.5 upper brackets.


To tie the side brackets from the dash face to the cabin, after removing the horizontal style bracket from the 70, I bent them to parallel and within 1/4" of the windshield post/pillar, and welded 1/4" nuts to the wall. Go easy on my welding skills, they have made me a better grinder.




And finally all buttoned up.




The sharp eye may have noticed a few things that "strayed" further from stock. The aftermarket Ididit steering column and the relocated brake and clutch pedal. Since I had to widen the tunnel at the front by 1 1/2" there wasn't enough room to fit my 5" wide size 14 between the brake and tunnel to push on the loud pedal. I heated and bent a Z into each pedal moving them over a little over an inch. There is now 6 1/2" between the tunnel and brake pedal. Woo Hoo, I can wear shoes while driving. As for the column, it's something different and wiring into the Painless harness should be well.... Painless.

Well, there you have it. I'll let ya'll get back to the regularly scheduled programs now.

My hope is that this write-up can help somebody, somewhere down the line.

Keep em shiney sides up fellas (you too Woody)

Marshal

[dbrick]

Keep em shiney sides up fellas (you too Woody)

Marshal

Well, it was up, just up against the tree.
Great post, all the important points well illustrated. It may also perform a great service by keeping someone from starting this and not being able to finish. I did the lazy mans conversion, bought a 66 and sold the 69, but I think you would be a bit tall for a 66. I have size 12, usually fit OK on the pedals, but occasionally forget and wear a pair of skate shoes, get it stuck and drive home in socks

[MSmethers]

Keep em shiney sides up fellas (you too Woody)

Marshal

It may also perform a great service by keeping someone from starting this and not being able to finish.

That was an ulterior motive for this thread also. I could certainly see where someone could get in over their head very quickly. Especially if they don't have the resources some of us are fortunate enough to have. Equipment, moral support and a chassis fabricator in house (not me)

[I did the lazy mans conversion, bought a 66 and sold the 69, but I think you would be a bit tall for a 66. I have size 12, usually fit OK on the pedals, but occasionally forget and wear a pair of skate shoes, get it stuck and drive home in socks

That thought occured to me as well, but you're right, to tall. I'm barely looking under the windshield frame as it is. To put it another way, I'm in no hurry to refurb the soft top frame, nor am I looking for a hardtop at this time. Once I've driven it a bit, we'll see.

[dbrick]

I'm 6'2", but really thin and I can just fold myself in the 66 with the top up.. With the aftermarket seats in the 69, I was almost looking over the windshield, on the 66 with stock seats I am looking out the top of the glass and can't see traffic lights with the top up. It's perfect for my wife. I'm guessing you're using a smaller than stock steering wheel.

[MSmethers]

6'3" and far from thin. Stock seats are my only option as far as I'm concerned. That or a piece of cardboard on the floor. Yes, smaller wheel. How much smaller remains to be seen. I envision myself trying to get my fat arse thigh between the wheel and seat.

Traffic lights are overrated anyway.