Was the Solex 44PHH Type S5 ever used on Roadsters?

[Gregs672000]

"I just got an Innovative AFR meter to log the ratios while driving. Im hoping to get this all buttoned up by next weekend and then get her on a dyno for fun."

Should be great! Get your ratios where you want them before hitting the dyno so you're not wasting dyno time jetting the carbs and are more doing maybe some fine tuning. It can take a while as you learn how things work, how to read your meter and understand what is happening in the carb. I don't know anything about your car, its level of tune, hx of work done etc. However, I discovered a lot of missing HP with JT68s adjustable cam gear as my cam was waaaaay off (my engine is not stock however), but it may be something to consider if you're into tinkering and your engine is rebuilt a time or two or modified, etc... careful tinkering when you're messing with cam timing. Have fun!!!!

[harrison]

Im not going to try to adjust the Cam unless I really need to.

Btw.. I have an electronic dizzy and there is a what looks to be a vacuum hose going to the vent off the thermostat housing. I see that most U20s with mikuni setups do not have the vent tower. If I were to remove the vent where would the vacuum line to the dizzy then need to be connected to?

[Gregs672000]

You would cap off any vac advance lines as they are no longer needed. Initial timing is then set at 20 degrees BTDC, backing it off a bit if needed if she pings on premium fuel. With the mikuni carbs and the A/F meter you will be able to monitor your ratios better, which will allow you to slightly richen the mix to help avoid ping at lower rpm. That's part of the value of this style of carb vs an SU... more fine control because of the separate systems (low speed and high speed), and clear objective data from the A/F meter.
Sounds like the car has been desmogged with the EI dizzy (now with the correct timing curve), plugs in the head for the air injector piping holes, vac lines removed, yes?

[Gregs672000]

I understand about the cam timing and not wanting to mess with it. In my case, my cam was so far off that I was actually going backwards on the dyno with the modifications I had made, including an Isky cam that should have (and now does) work better. My head had been cut and shimmed and the cam timing was off enough that it was not working well... the more you modify things the more sensitive they become to slight changes, and this engine has been modified just a bit

[harrison]

Yes, no smog equipment left. caps in the holes.I dont see any other vacuum lines going to the dizzy. Just 2 coming off the SU manifold to the vent on the thermostat housing.

Im not 100% on the timing right now. Since it has a cam i know it is not at the stock timing. When putting on the mikunis I will be replacing the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and spark plugs. I should be able to then check the timing by lining up the crank pulley.

[Gregs672000]

Yes, adjusting cam timing is not for the faint of heart since this is an interference engine and we're talking about couple of degrees on the cam. JT68 has noted that there are factory marks for cam timing assuming the timing marks on the crank pully are true (0 mark on the pully actually is TDC), but apparently that's a big assumption! Since I knew mine from other mods i have made (crank fired ignition system) I was able of see that my cam was off and eyeball adjusted it a few degrees... engine woke up! I plan to finalize changes on the dyno, but it really demonstrated how much difference a couple degrees makes.

Get her set up and working well with jetting and stuff, and then do a pull on the dyno and see what she does. If it's way lower than you expect or it does not want to rev high or seems to drop off early, then we might consider messing with the cam a bit with JT68's or others adjustable cam gears. Step by step. But only if you like to tinker!

[harrison]

Ill have to check all the markings and see how the cam is timed with the crank. I really dont want to adjust anything myself and risk blowing the motor... cause they aint cheap and mine is original to the chassis.

[Gregs672000]

Ill have to check all the markings and see how the cam is timed with the crank. I really dont want to adjust anything myself and risk blowing the motor... cause they aint cheap and mine is original to the chassis.

True that! Step by step, you'll have fun! Glad to help, I want you to be happy that your efforts result in what you want! I've come home from the dyno going "What the heck!? Why is this not working how I expect? I clearly need to learn more." If I'm capable, you're capable if you take your time, ask questions and logic things through. The wealth of knowledge here on 311s is outstanding and freely given... what a great family! I respect and depend on others knowledge all the time. Whatever you want to do, we will be here!

[harrison]

I found my cam specs:
Intake lift .435"
Exhaust Lift .435"
270 Duration

[harrison]

Mikunis and new header are on! Put in some new exhaust studs too. M8x1.25 both sides.

Waiting on fuel lines and will need a new exhaust system.

[Gregs672000]

Mikunis and new header are on! Put in some new exhaust studs too. M8x1.25 both sides.

Waiting on fuel lines and will need a new exhaust system.

I bet you're just looking at them, walking back a bit, looking at them again, smiling, imagining, walking around to the other side, looking again... I know, been THERE! Have Fun!

[harrison]

Before:



My god was that exhaust manifold a bitch to remove.


After:

[notoptoy]

Very nice!

[Gregs672000]

Betcha can't stop looking!

[harrison]

The velocity stacks are so long i cant put the ITG one piece filter on lol. may have to get smaller ones. or individual filters.
Should have the fuel lines on this weekend. Then I need a custom exhaust fabbed up.

Then onto:
300zx brakes. Watanabes. and some custom carbon fiber work.