spl311 thermostat Housing removal

[danimal2]

Hello all, I have spent the last hour searching through this thread to no avail. I have a 1969 spl311 (R16) and was trying to replace my very bad thermostat and yes, I broke one of the studs taking the nut off. Actually the nuts came off just fine, I was trying to remove the stud on one side using the two nut process and it just snapped like butter. Not wanting to try the same process on the other. Any Ideas on how to get this off. The car has sat for many years. It runs very nicely now, but I am aware that it was getting to the point of over heating. That is why I decided to inspect the thermostat. Yes, it is toast.

I need to remove the housing and it is still not budging. I broke one stud, and I think I will need another Housing (where can I get one that is affordable).

Any insight on this process would be truly appreciated. The car is currently tagged, licensenced and insured. I would love to be able to drive it to town in the next couple of weeks.


Thank you all for your time.

Daniel in San Angelo

[Linda]

A lot of PB Blaster used down the stud holes may help. You may have to do that over several days or more. Then tapping with a rubber mallet could work. If you get it off sounds like you have to replace the stud since it broke, and that is another job there. If you really damage the housing they come up on EBAY.
Good luck. At least it is pretty accessible.

Linda

[sunbeam590]

no easy way to remove it, just spray and use a picker round the studs, also a bit of heat from an LPG torch will help, and tapping with the hammer and you will get it off, but patience is the main thing, hopefully the stud didnt break flush with the block, but at least its in a good position to deal with. Good Luck.

[bobd]

I had to cut the housing off with a Dremel and then the rest of the stud came off with vise grips after much soaking. Luckily the car came with a new housing in the trunk.

[Nissanman]

Treat the whole shebang as sacrificial.
The studs, housing etc will more than likely be totally trashed by the time you get it all off so plan to re-new everything.
Even a broken off stud can be drilled out and replaced
When you refit the new parts, use plenty of anti-seize/Coppercoat to minimise the same problem again.
Use a coolant additive and you should be set for another 20 years

[danimal2]

thank you every one. I have been spaying BP on the housing and studs. The one stud the broke, broke off at the top of the housing so, once I get the house to budge, I think I will be able to get the broken stud out a little easier. Yes, I plan to replace both studs and probable the housing. Any recommendations on where to get stainless steel studs for this?

[notoptoy]

Stainless studs, actually any hardware I have needed, (Including snap rings, roll pins etc.) I get from one of three places. Lowe's has a nice selection, but probably not studs, Automotive Fasteners and Southern Fasteners. Both of the last two have locations across the country. I'm sure there is a local equivalent for you!

[spl310]

If you cut the aluminum housing down the sides of the bolt holes, you will open them up and remove half of the rust friction. It may work, and the housing could be reused with the sides open. Just a thought.

[Linda]

Any recommendations on where to get stainless steel studs for this?

Here's a good resource Mcmaster-carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Linda

[K1200 GT]

I used a regular hammer on mine with an old rag under to keep from marking it up. I just dont thing the rubber hammer had any effect at all.
Tap...push ...pull. I was a point of rocking the whole car. But dont break the head housing.

Richard

[greydog]

I was able to use a propane (Bern-o-Matic) torch to loosen the rust. My theory is that the aluminum expands quickly and loosen the rust around the stud. I heated the housing right along the studs, then tapped the housing with a hammer and hit it again with PB. Don't breath the smoke, it's nasty.
Next morning one stud came out of the head, the other snapped but I was able to get the tstat housing off.
I'm gonna use a 240Z housing and eliminate the stock one.
Dan

[Linda]

Isn't there a risk of cracking the head with heat, or is there not enough to worry about?

Linda

[greydog]

I don't think there's much chance Linda. The idea is to heat the area of the studs in the housing and the temperatures are no where near what the head sees as combustion temps.
Dan

[K1200 GT]

Graydog what does the 240z housing look like? Maybe a option for me next time.

Thanks
Richard

[greydog]

The 240z housing looks like most "regular" thermostat housings on a small block Chevy. It's a half globe on a flange with a nozzle for the hose. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0640851056" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
You can buy them at Black Dragon They use the roadster thermostat and gasket. Rather than studs, you would use bolts although shorter studs could be used if desired.
I have helicoils in the head so I'm not worried about using bolts (they'll be stainless anyway).
If you use the 240Z unit, the next issue to resolve is how to fill the system since the 1600 radiator doesnt' have a fill. One can be added (although there may be a clearance issue with the hood) or a fill can be spliced into the radiator hose. I'll use the radiator hose solution as it doesn't require me to hack into my radiator.
Of course, a 2000 radiator or an aftermarket radiator resolve the fill issue also.
Dan