Tips for stopping engine pinging?

[pebbles]

Would adding an EI dizzy help with this issue ?

Linda

It may. Due to the fact that the old distributors breaker plate pivot ball retainers rust. Then the pivot balls get stuck and groove the breaker plate to a smaller than normal advance/pivot range.
but Ive only disassembled 3.

[Gregs672000]

Just an update... I recently suggested the use of the BPR6ES NGK plugs. I went to get a new set and found that these are now extended nose plugs, no different than the BPR6ES-11!
If ping is an issue, this can be it. I will try to find if they still offer the B6ES, as I have a set of those and they are the recessed nose. I also had an old set of BRP6ES plugs and they USED TO BE recessed, but not anymore?

[Mainer311]

NGK specifies a BR6ES plug, which is a non-projected insulator plug. The -11 is the plug gap. 11 meaning 1.1mm, or .043" so that doesn't really mean much.

It seems there is a lot of misconstrued information surrounding spark plugs on this site. I did a search and found a lot of people referring to the -11 being a longer plug. According to NGK, this really shouldn't be the case. The "P" stands for protruding insulator/electrode, not the -11.

See here:
http://www.blasterforum.com/attachments ... -png.9121/

Note that a BPR6ES and a BPR6ES-11 are the same plug. No dash number means the plug is set with the standard gapping.

[Daryl Smith]

What Mainer said^

Also a better spark can help by lighting the mixture off quicker, giving less chance for detonation.
Going to a bigger spark and a projected nose plug 'could' lead to a reduction in BTDC timing, ostensibly reducing the backwards pressure on the piston as it rises, increasing power in the process....that's the theory...and it makes sense...but, every engine is different.

High compression, timing, spark scatter, fuel, a/f mix, 'squish', oil in cylinder, plug nose length, heat range & gap, sharp edges in the combustion chamber,....harmonic damper condition...
The trick with the plug is to have it hot enough that it won't carbon up, and cold enough that it won't become the hot spot that causes problems...If your engine is basically stock you really shouldn't be pinging unless there's something else going on.....as stated previously.

Colder air intake and a cooler thermostat could help...

Timing - you can get pinging and detonation while the engine is still increasing in power. Best to dial it back till you figure the cause. Or burn a piston...your choice...

Have you checked your damper to see if it has slipped?
What is your compression pressure? checked?
Tried a leakdown test?
Checked for a vacuum leak at the manifold? could lead to a lean condition on 1 or more cylinders....

A search on 'best ignition timing' or 'knock limited ignition' will get you some good info.
This one is a decent start:
http://www.onpointdyno.com/2015/01/knoc ... tion-time/

[fj20spl311]

NGK specifies a BR6ES plug, which is a non-projected insulator plug. The -11 is the plug gap. 11 meaning 1.1mm, or .043" so that doesn't really mean much.

It seems there is a lot of misconstrued information surrounding spark plugs on this site. I did a search and found a lot of people referring to the -11 being a longer plug. According to NGK, this really shouldn't be the case. The "P" stands for protruding insulator/electrode, not the -11.

Note that a BPR6ES and a BPR6ES-11 are the same plug. No dash number means the plug is set with the standard gapping.

+1 on P meaning projected tip.

Just to add confusion or make things a little clearer ....LOL
The firing end electrode is actually taller by about .011" on the -11 plugs, that's why it's not a good idea to buy the wrong Gap number and change the gap.

[tjp]

Have you checked your damper to see if it has slipped?

Is this an easy situation to detect?

[notoptoy]

Obtain "true" TDC by having the Piston at the top of it's travel, then see if the marker aligns with the TDC mark on the crank pulley. Should be spot on, if not, then it has likely shifted, or your timing chain is off a link or so.

[Daryl Smith]

What notoptoy said....except the timing chain part. Just dealing with the crank. When the #1 piston is TDC the timing mark should be on '0'.

I would like to see the cranking compression #'s....
A leakdown test would tell you if you are getting excessive blowby....could push oil into the cylinders lowering the octane rating of your fuel as mentioned in the article previously linked.

[notoptoy]

Good point, crank only so timing chain not a factor!

[Mainer311]

When the #1 piston is TDC the timing mark should be on '0'.

Shouldn't it be at ~15?

[Gregs672000]

When the #1 piston is TDC the timing mark should be on '0'.

Shouldn't it be at ~15?

No, that is the ignition spark timing being advanced of top dead center by 15 degrees.

[Mainer311]

When the #1 piston is TDC the timing mark should be on '0'.

Shouldn't it be at ~15?

No, that is the ignition spark timing being advanced of top dead center by 15 degrees.

Oh yeah, duh. I'm thinking electrical and not locked mechanical.

[Linda]

Maybe check out an MSD system.
Linda

[Gregs672000]

Thanks for correcting my earlier post about the projection nose plugs being BPR6ES and not BR6ES. Sorry for the confusion!

[dbrick]

Maybe check out an MSD system.
Linda

As long as the timing advances correctly, the points can be used to trigger the MSD. An MSD6A would be good. You can also add an advance dial so you can dial back the timing from the drivers seat. Multi spark up to about 4000 rpm, I think, maybe higher on a 4 cyl. The only downside to an MSD is they occasionally just crap out , not that often, but defiantly more often than the Nissan EI.


Verifying the balancer is referenced correctly is absolutely vital, or you have no idea what the timing really is. You want to see a smooth advance from about 1000 rpm full advance at 3500 rpm. As mentioned, it's sometimes good to set the timing up around 30-32 degrees at 4000+ rpm and then let the idle timing be what it is. Anything above 12 at idle is fine, below that it can run hot.
My car has a B cam reground toward a C cam as per Bob, so it has basically zero vacuum idles really rough below 1100rpm. The SU's compensate a bit, but it was pinging badly with the vacuum advance connected. Much better with it off.



Always remember Dent's Law..
"If you think it's ignition, it's always fuel, and vice versa"