Just doing a bunch of small fixits on the roadster before spring season (snowed again here yesterday... sigh)
Got a new temp sensor from Ross @ Sports Imports and went to pop out the old one, and snap! It popped apart with the lion's share of it still wedged in the port:
It's pretty flush to the cast, can't get pliers on it. I assume the correct fix is to disassemble the flange off the elbow of the water pipe and drill it out?
Advice cheerfully accepted...
Rob
1969 Datsun 2000 Solex # 12921
1967.5 Datsun 1600 # 14262
1990 300ZX Twin Turbo
another 1990 300ZX Turbo
1993 300ZX Convertible
new garage DONE Oct 2019!!!
Edmonton, Canada
Yes, take the parts of the head and mount the plate firmly in a vice.
What you then need to determine is the exact centre of the remaining sender.
Use a drill bit [or a series of bits] to remove the sender.
DO NOT drill larger than the thread size that you can measure on the new sender.
Once you get close to the diameter of the sender it is likely that the remaining parts will suddenly break free.
Feel free to use plenty of your favourite lubricant, WD40/CRC-556/yada
I agree with Nissanman about taking the housing off but I would use a screw/bolt extractor instead of trying to drill it out. Big chance of damaging the threads by drilling. Definitely soak it for a long time (overnight) with a penetrating oil.
Robert Ellis
Saratoga Springs, UT
1969 SRL311
1969 SRL311-07332
Matching numbers
1966 Mustang Coupe
Just doing a bunch of small fixits on the roadster before spring season (snowed again here yesterday... sigh)
Got a new temp sensor from Ross @ Sports Imports and went to pop out the old one, and snap! It popped apart with the lion's share of it still wedged in the port:
It's pretty flush to the cast, can't get pliers on it. I assume the correct fix is to disassemble the flange off the elbow of the water pipe and drill it out?
Advice cheerfully accepted...
I had a similar break on my R16. I managed to get it out with vice grips and a prybar.
I could get the grips on. Looks like you cannot? Guess yours screws in, mine does not.
P1030424 (900x506).jpg
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67 1600 (Mods only a mother could love)
78 911 SC Targa (Severe Oversteer but still loved)
This looks like a U20. If so, My experience with thee has been a lot of corrosion on the inner surface of the sensor mounting plate. It might be acting like glue on the sensor. The only threaded part is the locking nut which is removed. The rest is a slide in fit.
You may be able to push it out from the inside after soaking in penetrating oil.
Also note that the seal gaskets have little staples in them to ground the sensor mount plate to the block.
Yes, the sensor is a slide in type, I ordered a new water elbow & flange with the correct gaskets for grounding the sensor from Ross... will disassemble this water tower and see if I can extract and salvage the cast parts.
Rob
1969 Datsun 2000 Solex # 12921
1967.5 Datsun 1600 # 14262
1990 300ZX Twin Turbo
another 1990 300ZX Turbo
1993 300ZX Convertible
new garage DONE Oct 2019!!!
Edmonton, Canada
"PB Blaster" has worked great for me at the body shop for years, on things like this. the soak period is much shorter than other penetrating oils I've found
Am currently caretaker of:
67.5 1600 restored
69 2000 nearly "complete"
Make sure you use a gasket with the metal tabs on both gaskets so your sender will ground. I make my own gaskets with a small piece of bare wire punched through and bent over flat. Keep any gasket sealer you use away from the metal surface in those areas to allow the metal tabs to make contact with the rest of the unit/engine. There is also a small hole that allows air to bleed out past the thermostat before it opens (visible on your pics). Most thermostats have a pin to do the same thing, but not all.
I don't use anything on the thermostat itself, it fits into the groove.. and be careful with sealers, as it takes VERY little and any extra can get squished out and later lodge in small spots in your cooling system. Antiseize on all bolts... won't hurt! Install the thermostat with the air bleed pin at or close to 12 o'clock.
A definite NO NO on RTV. These old engines are not designed for it.
As Greg says, it will create silicon worms and they will be on the INSIDE of your cooling system: never a good idea.
Ditto with the oil system if it is used on the sump for example
Loctite No. #3 Non-hardening Aviation Gasket Cement is my tip
You need only one gasket with the staple in it. It is placed between head and spacer block. there is no need to ground the elbow that has the hose on it.
