Removable X-member, anyone done it?

Tech tips and how to's

Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68

User avatar
fj20spl311
Roadsteraholic
Posts: 5007
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: San Diego, Ca

Re: Removable X-member, anyone done it?

Post by fj20spl311 »

redroadster wrote: it adds so safety for sure , in a T bone accident , but minimal
I agree with minimal, its too low and far inside for much of any protection.
Phil
67.5 SRL311-00148 Blue (FJ cruiser VOODOO Blue)
67.5 SPL311 FJ20E teal SDS EFI
69 SRL311 SOLD
19 Raptor SCAB
User avatar
ppeters914
Roadster Fanatic-Site Supporter
Posts: 3075
Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2004 5:51 pm
Location: Lake Forest Park, WA (just north of Seattle)
Model: 1500/1600
Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5

Re: Removable X-member, anyone done it?

Post by ppeters914 »

The main reason I'm doing a frame off is that the X-member needs to be modified for the 71B 5-speed that was jury-rig mounted by a PO. Be nice if you could figure this out before January. :roll:
Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off started in 2014. Now I know why roadster projects take so long. What a stupid idea. :smt021
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 ***SOLD***
A couple of Porsches, a RAV4 Hybrid, and a motorcycle
fairlane292
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 82
Joined: Sun May 28, 2023 11:02 am
Location: 01571
Model: 1500/1600
Year: High Windshield-68-70

Re: Removable X-member, anyone done it?

Post by fairlane292 »

I know it's an old thread but was just reading it and wanted to mention that the '98-'11 Ford Ranger frame was a two piece frame with the back half 'C' channel sliding into the front half. When my '02 Ranger back half frame rotted out I got a new half from SC. Now these two sections were attached with factory rivets approx 3/8" in diameter. Granted this is not a X member but the Ranger 4X4 has to take a lot of abuse and these rivets simply don't fail. I drilled the rivets with a 3/8" bit (they were surprisingly soft) and easily air chisled them off. I don't recall if the forward crossmember was welded or riveted (I could look on my 2011). I used grade 8 bolts and hardware to replace the rivets. I did junk the truck about 5 years later as the front was then heavily rusted and the truck needed some mechanical work not worth fixing.
Dowel pins would be a good idea, should be better than not. The X-xember could be made a stronger version of itself and possibly there is a point forward and/or back of it where an additional smaller profile cross brace could be welded in. Possibly this addl smaller welded profile cross brace could also be bolt mounted to the main bolt mounted X-member. I haven't started my 5.0 T5 roadster swap yet so until I get into the body off frame mock-up stage I can't really be specific or overly confident. It's def part of a "complete" mockup to see if a removable x_member for trans and clutch removal is feasible. Again I'm not looking at the frame but if it did have a bit of taper in one direction then in theory you could have three mounting surfaces bolted (on each side). If so I don't see this loosing up particularly if done with dowel pins and grade 8 hardware. Of course there are considerations for exhaust, drive shaft, etc. Mockup of everything front to back (preferably on a junker) would be the way to go IMO.
Post Reply