Linda wrote:You can take it out and try to pressurize it to see where the leak is.
Look for any places where there is solder to check for a leak.
With a soldering iron or propane torch you can fix it, or just take it to a radiator shop.
The tank is a nice brass underneath the paint, which I prefer.
Linda
Ok cool, and would a leak in the tank cause the car to run hot then? Sorry for the stupid question (that's why I'm here ).
yes, it can cause the car to run hot, for two reasons: 1) You are losing pressure in the system (it's designed to hold pressure) and 2) loss of coolant, which gets replaced with air, which does not cool at all.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
Why do some some 67's have two gauges & three switches.. And other 67's three gauges & four switches(this is above the console on the dash) was wondering why & what's the difference for.
Thanks, Greg
72 goon ka24de
64 nova ss
68 camaro ss
65 chevelle conv.
2012 dodge diesel 4x4
Coarsegold, CA
So while trying to dial in my carbs and then chasing a misfire...I take a look at the offending spark plug and the gap has changed! It's almost fully closed! The carbs weren't right yet but no wonder it was misfiring.
Is this a thing that happens? Did my spark plug regap itself on it's own just to spite me? OR am I a huge idiot and forget to do it before I put it in? I'm 85% certain I gapped that plug correctly. The gap looked less than it does when the plug is brand new out of the box. Anyway, I regapped the plug and I'm back in business, but very confused.
andyroo wrote:So while trying to dial in my carbs and then chasing a misfire...I take a look at the offending spark plug and the gap has changed! It's almost fully closed! The carbs weren't right yet but no wonder it was misfiring.
Is this a thing that happens? Did my spark plug regap itself on it's own just to spite me? OR am I a huge idiot and forget to do it before I put it in? I'm 85% certain I gapped that plug correctly. The gap looked less than it does when the plug is brand new out of the box. Anyway, I regapped the plug and I'm back in business, but very confused.
maybe you accidently tapped the end of the plug on the block or something else on the way into the spark plug hole?
andyroo wrote:So while trying to dial in my carbs and then chasing a misfire...I take a look at the offending spark plug and the gap has changed! It's almost fully closed! The carbs weren't right yet but no wonder it was misfiring.
Is this a thing that happens? Did my spark plug regap itself on it's own just to spite me? OR am I a huge idiot and forget to do it before I put it in? I'm 85% certain I gapped that plug correctly. The gap looked less than it does when the plug is brand new out of the box. Anyway, I regapped the plug and I'm back in business, but very confused.
maybe you accidently tapped the end of the plug on the block or something else on the way into the spark plug hole?
That's about all I can think of, but it would take a pretty big tap to do that. I suppose I could have dropped it or stepped on it or something. It looked really pushed in. Geez.
Here's another question...
When setting my idle air balance, my Unisyn tool barely registers at 1100 RPM even when the tool is adjusted all the way down. I could just try to back off the 2 idle adjusters the same amount to get it down to 800 RPM but I'm worried it would end up unbalanced. Is there a way to modify the Unisyn tool further? Or am I going to have to do the "listen to the air whooshing" method?
If you cannot get the RPM down, I would suspect leaking throttle shaft bushings. Try a little carb cleaner at the shafts, if the RPM changes, you may need to re-bush/rebuild/replace the carbs.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
When setting my idle air balance, my Unisyn tool barely registers at 1100 RPM even when the tool is adjusted all the way down. I could just try to back off the 2 idle adjusters the same amount to get it down to 800 RPM but I'm worried it would end up unbalanced. Is there a way to modify the Unisyn tool further? Or am I going to have to do the "listen to the air whooshing" method?
that is kind of odd. on my unisync you can turn the knob to get the ball to rise to the middle of the gauge. the only issue is you can not leave it in place over the throat but for a half second or so as it chokes down the carb so much that it lowers the idle and can make it want to stall. for idle I usually set it so the ball registers on the lower 1/4'or so in order to not choke it down so much. you still have to not leave it in place long.
maybe your unisync is just not closing enough to let you do it at idle? is there not a knob / thumb screw wheel at the center or a bolt end or screw that comes out of it to adjust it with? or do you turn the disk that closes down?
Regarding the unisyn, it should be able to choke the carb off completely if the disc is screwed all the way in. A better balancing tool is the "snail" version, as it does not slow down flow and can be held over the carb as long as needed. The unisyn is a cover, read and remove quickly device.
Regarding your plug gap, it's possible your piston tapped it, or that a chunk of carbon positioned itself such that it hit the plug and closed the gap. I run high compression pistons (U20, 11.7 to 1) and have been concerned in the past about hitting the plug. The NGK BPR6ES plug does not extend as far as the BPR6ES-11 that is often used. If using the -11, you may want to consider the other version. If you're using another brand, I would compare how far they extend into the cylinder vs the NGK.
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