More H20 Stroker Stuff

[S Allen]

Go for it! I am all eyes and ears. Thinking out of the box is a good thing. We will wait to see what you can come up with. No bah humbug from me. There is a guy in Gardena, CA that could probably grind you the correct cam. His contact info is here:
http://www.311s.org/tech/engine/strokercam.html
Just trying to help!

Steve-Mr. Patience--it is a true virtue! Patience that is.

[notoldnfat]

Well, I called a Nissan forklift dealer here today....he confirmed the H20 and H25 are compatable...block wise. Anyway, he doesen't keep them in stock. He did have a complete H20 for $3300...but that's longblock and injection etc. I told him, nope...I just need a quote on the short blocks...I checked both to be safe. He's supposed to call the distributor and call me back.....cross your fingers!!

[SLOroadster]

I think American cams are also known as Americam ( I could be wrong.) A friend of mine has a U20 cam that was reground (by Americam). It started as a B cam but was turned into the 068 grind. From the looks of it it is a gnarly cam. We havn't tried it yet.

Sorry off topic, thinking out loud again....

Will

[Linda]

I wonder what ever happened on this project?

Linda

[fj20spl311]

H25
the correct figures are 3.61 x 3.7

3.61 x 3.26 in Bore x Stroke = 133.47 or 2.2 L

[Pjackb]

I was reading this thread with interest and too bad it never amounted to anything
What would be the limiting factor? is it the crankshaft?
It seem finding rod, cam and piston even if they had to be custom made should not be a big deal no?

[Daryl Smith]

Actually, the big bore (3.61"), short stroke (3.268) idea is more interesting to me @ 2.2L than a 2.5L. 4 cylinder engines tend to get noisier and shakier as the displacement goes up. The shorter stroke would rev better, and still have a good boost in torque. A 6" rod from the R16 for a good rod ratio, and a modern, lightweight, custom piston would make a nice combination...BUT....IF this were a workable combination, I think Lou Mondello and the Ozzies would have a few running around already....so my thinking is there are some compatibility issues. Bore spacing perhaps? Head bolt pattern?

[JT68]

I'll snoop around, may be unicorns these days. Most were probably scrapped years ago. Low rev engine. Daryl's correct on big displacement/vibration issues. Other makers used balance shafts for the big 4's to keep them from shaking themselves silly over 5k from harmonics. Apparently Nissan wasn't too enthused with the H25 engine in general. There was a 3main H20 too, also rare. Personally I also like the 2.1-2.2 range.

[Pjackb]

It was more of a rethorical question than anything else,
I mean if it's the same block I was curious as to why not more folks were going with KA pistons and rod like Lou M. is doing
But it may be that 2.2-2.25 is the upper limit of this engine

The other thing I was curious about is that I read in the other thread that LM says that R head doesn't flow enough to get you past 150hp in a stroked engine and that he prefers to use H20 heads for his performance applications, since my understanding is that the car application for the H20 was in trucks and minivan I was kind of suprised by that

[Daryl Smith]

I have had two R16 heads checked that both flowed 166 cfm totally stock. Which, if you believe the books and internet, SHOULD be good for +/-160 hp IF the rest of the parts of your "system" are compatible and work together. (air cleaner through to tailpipe, valves and seats, combustion chamber shape and compression, piston, cam lift and duration, oil, cooling system...everything would have to be very well thought out, and obviously much modified from stock.
The head on my 2L stroker has been ported, with oversize valves, and flows in the neighborhood of 190 cfm (checked by a second shop). In a perfect world it should be capable of near 190 hp....Do I expect that?? Not a hope in hell. But I do hope I can get into the range of 165 -175 hp.
Why Lou would draw the line @ 150 hp for a stock R16 head (if he has) is a mystery to me.....

[Pjackb]

Darryl,
I was referring to this comment that was attributed to Lou from page 4 of this thread 150hp from R1600 , I thought it was 150 but it's 160, still I was quite surprised by it

Y44 H20 head is the best one around for a pushrod roadster, you cant make much more than 160 HP from a R16 or G15 head, believe me, i have tried. the Y44 H20 should be used in any performance application. the only downside is the weight.( a guy here in aust is working on an alloy version but dont hold your breath)

[Daryl Smith]

Yeah, guess I chose to ignore it or something....
I don't believe the H20 head they have is/was available in North America, unless possibly, a few in Mexico...
As far as the weight, sounds like it's an iron head, which would be about 20 lbs heavier than the aluminum.

[JT68]

I have a couple y22. The y22 would be good for maxed out 2.1-2.0 I think, but with a 2.0 the compression is way low unless you go to pop-up pistons. The head weighs almost as much as a 3main block lol. You can get good HP out of the 1600 head with other techniques.

[Curtis]

I investigated this motor and the very knowledgeable forklift man I talked to told me that the H25 has a weak bottom end and has a tendency to blow rods out the side. This ended my interest in the engine.

[Daryl Smith]

Curtis,
A weak bottom end could mean crank or rods, not nescessarily the block....and could also be part maintenance problems...I worked at a business for 1 1/2 years abusing the forklift....There was no maintenance done at all over that time...no oil changes. no check-ups, nothing. I guess if it broke they would fix it...but until then, drive damn it!
But, it could also mean a weak block or oiling problems....