shifter play...

[JDeatsch]

I'm going to make an assumption here: (I know, I know).

Is the prescribed method for 'tightening' up the sloppy shifter to renew the bushings on the bottom end of the shift lever and reef down on the bottom nut?

Seems to me that might make sense. I know about the shortened shifter but I've been doing that for years with LBC's so that's not an issue.

Thoughts from the Wizards please?

Tanks,

Jim

[greydog]

If you look at the shifter mechanism, you'll see that there is a limited amount the shift rod will do for you. On the transmissions i have, the majority of slop comes from the clevis (that connects to the bottom of the shift rod yoke) and the casting that slides on the actual shift rod.
Side to side play comes from the clevis and fore/aft play comes from the casting slider. Both are soft and wear over time.
There is an article in the Wiki about how to take the slop out. I'm sure it works but have concern about the longevity of the fix as it basically uses a plastic clip to replace metal worn away over time. Seems like even uhmw would get chewed up pretty quickly. Side to side is basically a matter of getting a high strength bolt and clamping the clevis to remove play. Again, I'm sure the process would work but seems pretty short lived, especially since you'd have to pull the engine and trans to do the repair (and do it again when it wears out).
I've wondered if there is a better solution but I haven't come up with one. Has anyone come up with a lasting solution short of replacing the parts with new?
Dan

[JDeatsch]

Dan,

Thanks for the information, truly.

I looked in wiki and found nothing, sigh. I'll try again.

You're telling me that in order to replace the shift lever (the one we put our hand on) and the rubber bushings it's necessary to pull the engine/gearbox?

Jim

[Linda]

The WIKI shifter slop fix can be done with the engine in the car.


Linda

[JDeatsch]

Thanks Linda.

I'm assuming it's the same for the 4 speed and 5 speed?

Jim

[Linda]

4 speed for sure.
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... tOfA4Speed

Linda

[JDeatsch]

4 speed for sure.
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... tOfA4Speed

Linda

Yep, that was my concern Linda, that what I was seeing was for 4 sp only. Guess I'll just have to dig in and see what happens.

Tanks,

Jim

[greydog]

No Jim. You do not have to pull the engine to replace the shift lever bushings. You can do it thru the shift hole.
The bushings are tapered and hard rubber (and get harder over time). Unless your's have hardened and started to fall apart, it's not likely the slop you're feeling is due entirely to the bushings.
Some of most of the slop is likely due to wear in the components farther down the chain.
The shift lever goes into a double tapered socket and it held in place by washers that trap the busings and squeeze them into the tapered casting. Sort of like shock absorber bushings.
That casting fits over a rod that goes into the trans and actuall moves shift forks. If you pull the shift knob and boot and watch what happens when you move the shift lever, you'll see how it works and where the play is.
Since the shift lever pivot is only a couple inches from the shift fork rod but 5 or 6 times that from the pivot to the knob, any play in the shift mechanism is magnified. In other words, a small amount of play in the strike rod/clevis makes a lot of slop at the shift knob.
You can also see how it works if you look at any of the online manuals.
Dan

[JDeatsch]

Excellent info Dan, many thanks.

I'll be digging deep soon.

Jim

[Roman]

You actually dont need to dig that deep. As soon as the shift plate is off and you can see the mechanism, it becomes apparent

And yes, the shifter shaft needs to be tight, but is not the cause of the slop.

[sunbeam590]

Yes a certain amount of the play is caused by the bushings at bottom of shifter, the easy part,and a lot more comes from the monkey mechanism, which is the bit that requires the engine out of the car, I have just done mine, but only because I was doing the engine up anyway,it comes down to removing the tail section of the tranny,the side to side motion and up and down wears the casting to a point that it needs a shim to tighten it up, which in turn means that you need to remove the selector shaft, and drift out the support tube, and while you are in there you can replace the 3 orings and rear oil seal, and fit a suitable shim to remove the play, a big job, but easy, and as I was waiting on parts .

[JDeatsch]

Thanks Kevin and Roman. I really appreciate all the information.

I guess I'll just learn to love the wear.

Jim

[mraitch]

Side to side slop is also controlled by springs - somewhat accessible with the 5-speed but not so with 4-speed.
On 5-speed there are two brass plugs at rear of tranny that cover the springs. One of mine was broken, replaced from spare tranny and most slop went away.
Can't remember if tranny was out though.

[JDeatsch]

Thank you Peter.