water pump removal

[Linda]

So the water pump on the car is VERY stuck. I did a search and looked at the usual tips on removal: PB Blaster, heat, hammer etc. Studs do not move either. Nothing has worked, does not budge, at all.
So, next question is how would you cut the thing off? I am trying to not destroy the spacer, at least initially. One suggestion was to drill tiny holes along the stud line, another was to cut a groove and use a chisel. Anyone have to try anything like this?
Thanks for any info,

Linda

[notoptoy]

Are you talking just the fan, or the water pump off the block? I'd stick with the WD-40, PB Blaster and time and tapping. Are all the bolts and nuts off? (And sorry, but are you SURE?). If you are getting a new one, and if it were ME, I'd apply some serious leverage to the old pump shaft.

Now, given if that fails, per my signature - get a bigger hammer. (But keep your aim from the side on the pump shaft, don't whack the pump base or block or you may damage the sealing areas.)
My two cents!

[Linda]

Yes all the nuts and bolts are off the pump, there are 2 studs and one bolt. A 5lb hammer has been used with a 2x4 also.

Linda

[notoptoy]

WOW! That is on there. Well I guess it didn't leak!
Have you tried squirting the PB Blaster inside the water pump to get to the backside of the mating surface? At least it can sit there and soak that way.
Is there signs it's corroded in place, or is is there evidence of a sealant/glue?
If corroded, I'd stick with the PB Blaster, if sealant or Glue, you might try Acetone or other adhesive remover.
As far as the bigger hammer, the water pump should go (Break into pieces)before the block, so you may just have to keep whacking it!

[K1200 GT]

Do you have the radiator out? you dont want to do damage to that. Just keep pushing and pulling and tapping. Use plenty of the juice. On mine I see where I could get a small pry bar between the head and pump. May try rocking it back and forth there. Mine has bolts so would be easer to remove. Good luck.

Richard

[Linda]

Yes no leaks, but the pump is old and it has to go. The radiator, alt and everything else in the way is out. I definitely don't want to damage the head so I don't think a pry bar round the back would be good. I'm wondering if heat along the spacer block edge would loosen the adhesive? I think I'm past the tapping stage though.

Linda

[notoptoy]

I think you'll be OK with heat, but watch out for fuel vapors, and of course you are close to the fuel pump, carbs and fuel line so be Verwey verwey careful (Think Elmer Fudd)!
I definitely would avoid the crowbar for the reasons you state.
Good luck!

[K1200 GT]

Come on....big hammer, pry bar whats the diff. i think you need to get it to rock back and forth...maybe at the water out let. Front then back side of the pump front then back. That should help.
I had to do that with my thermstate housing. If and when you get it off put some anti sieze on the studs or bolts.

Richard

[greydog]

Wow! PO must have used permanent Permatex and glued that thing on!
Here's what I'd try.
First, use PB Blaster, this stuff works better than anything I've found and I have a shelf of prentrants and oils.
I'd use a good hammer (maybe not the 5 pounder). I'd spray the top edge between the block and the pump housing, then immediately smack the nose of the housing with the hammer. I'd work my way around the pump doing that and working from side to side, much like torquing a head. Every joint has a weak spot and that's what you're looking for!
You might try to get some leverage on the pump body, perhaps by bolting something to the fan mount to give more leverage but usually it's the impact that loosens it.
I'd keep at it, spray the Blaster, smack it and so on at 4 hour or so intervals. You might try some heat but it's gonna be hard to get the wp housing hot enough to matter much without heating the block too. (think of a cast iron fry pan, it spreads heat very well and stays hot for a long time).
I think a combination of liberal solvent, impact and patience will win.
Good luck.
Dan

[spaul]

Try drilling a series of small holes in the pump where the studs go through it. Apply PB Blaster into holes. Let it sit for awhile then try prying it. If that doesn't work use a chisel to crack the pump where the holes were drilled. This would release any pressure from corrosion. Of course the pump would be thrashed. It may have to come off in pieces try not wrecking anything that can't be easily replaced. Good luck!

Paul

[GeoffM]

Linda,
If you haven't tried a no-blow hammer, go buy one and try it.

[ttyR2]

I'd venture a guess that gasket sealant isn't what's holding it on. If the waterpump is junk (i.e. can't be rebuilt), I'd just crack or slit the aluminum around the stud in the block. It's probably full of corrosion.

[Linda]

i'm not trying to save the pump, I have another new one. So I am going to trying drilling and cracking it around the upper left stud hole. We'll see how that works!

Linda

[dbrick]

the studs are probably what's holding it, same as the thermostat housing/tower. If you can remove the studs, the pump will likeley come off. I've has good luck drilling right next toand parallel to the stud with a small bit, 1/8" or less. You need to try follow right along the edge so the bit scrapes along the stud. Go as deep as you can without hitting the block. 2 or 3 holes would be ideal. Then spray in the penetrant and let it soak. bang on the side of the pump with a metal hammer to shock it a bit. If you double nut the stud, you may be able rock it tight/loose and get it to back out.


You can also try using a heavy duty utility knife blade as a wedge. A super thin putty knife or the back of a thin hacksaw blade can be used the same way, but are also brittle steel, so beware. Hold with pliers or visegrips and tap gently into the joint where the gasket is. You need gloves and goggles, if it shatters, it breaks into small pieces. Try this in a few places.

If all else fails, an air chisel is really fun and very effective.
Coat the sides of the new studs with conductive antisieze for the future.

[Linda]

Well finally the pump is off. Here's what had to happen though as the pics will show you. Numerous attempts at PB Blaster, heat and whacking did nothing. Threaded the studs to back them out did not work.Then holes were drilled along the top of the left stud, the smaller one, and then a Dremel with numerous cutoff discs were used to cut grooves between the holes in order to use the cold chisel to spit off pieces of the casting. .The top and sides had to be done to get the stud exposed.A Sawzall was used on the end corner. Pump still stuck.
Then the screws in the backing plate at the top were drilled out allowing the pump to rotate with a little separation of the spacer and plate as well. Pump still stuck. Then the bottom stud casting was drilled with holes to break off chunks with the cold chisel and air chisel. This allowed the pump to be wiggled forward and off. Spacer intact but needs cleanup. I think the pulley (front part) is salveageble but that is it.
See pics:



My thanks to Peter Harrison who drilled out the screws, had the tools, and always provided ideas to try.
Next, new studs after the old ones are removed.

Linda