The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

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Upsetk9
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Upsetk9 »

I hope I'm not reposting this question but I can't seem to find the old post anywhere.

Does anyone know if a 1966-? fully synchro'd 4 speed or 5 speed transmission is a direct bolt on replacement for the non synchro'd 1st gear 4 speed on the 1965.5 spl310? I'm really tired of a non synced 1st gear and second gear is having issues in the sync department also. I have a g15 (1500cc) engine.
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Nissanman
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Nissanman »

ME TOO!
I have now discovered that the synchro on 2nd is easily beaten and it also pops out of reverse gear :(
What I have determined though, is that it is very important that there is nothing interfering with the rocking motion of the gear stick retaining cap.
Mine was binding on a rubber sheet I had fitted to help plug the hole in the tunnel and changing into 2nd, either up or down, was a disaster!
171020141490 (Large).jpg
I trimmed the hole a wee bit larger so that the sheet sat down further on the 'box and that appears to have solved the problem :)

A replacement box in my situation is not an option but it will have to come out eventually for repair.

The non-synchro 1st is a novelty for me atm since my car has only been on the road for 8 days.
I guess in the interests of originality it will have to stay that way :roll:
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Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
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spl310
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by spl310 »

The short answer is no, it is not a direct swap. The shifter comes out in a different location, the driveshaft is a different length too. If you do swap, you will have to do tunnel mods and I believe that you will have to get a custom driveshaft. The differential was different from the 1500 to the 1600 making the driveshaft length an issue.
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Upsetk9
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Upsetk9 »

spl310 wrote:The short answer is no, it is not a direct swap. The shifter comes out in a different location, the driveshaft is a different length too. If you do swap, you will have to do tunnel mods and I believe that you will have to get a custom driveshaft. The differential was different from the 1500 to the 1600 making the driveshaft length an issue.

Thank you for your answer. I really appreciate it. Do you know if the bolt holes line up for the engine?

Mike
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by tjp »

Did the early Roadster ever come with flat top SUs?
My junk pile:
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70 1600 legit 2nd owner. Stroked and bored
Several salvaged w access to a barn full of parts, part cars & whole cars
......What's in the barn is for sale. What do you need?
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Nissanman »

Not as original equipment, I believe.
Nissanman, just trying to help.
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tjp
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by tjp »

Nissanman wrote:Not as original equipment, I believe.
I didn't think so either but saw on guy on facetube who said the flat tops on his R6 build are OE.
My junk pile:
71 Jeep Gladiator. Restored w/#s matching engine. My WeeBeasty
70 1600 legit 2nd owner. Stroked and bored
Several salvaged w access to a barn full of parts, part cars & whole cars
......What's in the barn is for sale. What do you need?
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Datsun.David »

I know a guy in Calgary with flat top Hitachis on his roadster - off a 73 or 74 Z car... Garbage as a rule...
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Nissanman »

Yes, they were introduced as a means to reduce emissions and are no where near as good as the domed top version I believe :roll:
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
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dbrick
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by dbrick »

Upsetk9 wrote:
spl310 wrote:The short answer is no, it is not a direct swap. The shifter comes out in a different location, the driveshaft is a different length too. If you do swap, you will have to do tunnel mods and I believe that you will have to get a custom driveshaft. The differential was different from the 1500 to the 1600 making the driveshaft length an issue.

Thank you for your answer. I really appreciate it. Do you know if the bolt holes line up for the engine?

Mike
I believe the bellhousing pattern is the same.
I test fit a U20/5 speed in a 64, trans tunnel was tight on pass side. You may want to consider a diesel 5 speed, by grinding the ribs down a bunch it fit in the 64. Considering all the work you need to do, may as well get more gears.
Rear swap is easy, later rear is a bit narrower so you can fit wider wheels and probably use a 4 speed later roadster driveshaft.

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tjp
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by tjp »

If you buy a fuel pump rebuild kit, would you expect to get two valves?
If you buy two fuel pump rebuild kits, would you expect to get four valves?
My junk pile:
71 Jeep Gladiator. Restored w/#s matching engine. My WeeBeasty
70 1600 legit 2nd owner. Stroked and bored
Several salvaged w access to a barn full of parts, part cars & whole cars
......What's in the barn is for sale. What do you need?
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Nissanman »

The kit I bought was a full recon. kit and yes it came with everything required to be replaced.
The valves are easily checked using the mouth and blowing, should only pass wind in one direction.
Usually though, it is the moving diaphragm that is the worse for wear, holes, tears etc.
Nissanman, just trying to help.
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https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
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Trav
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Trav »

I'm going to be removing my headers in hopes to find where my crazy/loud exhaust leak is coming from.

But, before I do that... having never worked with carburetors. Anything I NEED to know before I try and remove the carbs? Or is pretty simple.... just remove any hose I see attached?
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GeoffM
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by GeoffM »

It's pretty simple. Kinda like your TB off a 2.5 NA. Make sure you take good pictures and label everything. Very important not to mix and match parts from carb to carb as that can lead to issues especially with the piston/ bell because they are a matching set.
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

Post by Nissanman »

...as he said.
But if you are intending to just repair the headers, the carbs. and manifold can be left assembled.
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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