Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
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- Mainer311
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Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
This is the official build thread of my new (to me) 1968 SPL311-21773.
I spent from 8am to 6pm yesterday working on getting the engine out and torn down for a rebuild. It was a long day, seeing as I have never, until this point, worked on a Roadster before.
I was very frustrated by the placement of the motor mount and header/carb nuts and bolts. In particular, those two large brass nuts that hold the bottom flange of the SU's on. In any case, about 6 hours later and covered with gobs of dirty grease, oil, and coolant, the engine was out:
The PO had the head rebuilt and it looks pretty nice. One less thing that I have to do I guess.
The engine supposedly had low compression on cylinders 1 and 2. The pistons and bores look very good with no scoring. This picture is after I used the ridge reamer to get rid of the top carbon build-up before popping the pistons out. This is how the engine sits right now, as I ran out of time.
One question: the car ran for a few minutes to put it onto the car trailer, and for a few minutes when I got it home. The PO put a brand new oil filter on it, but after removing the oil filter, there was no oil inside of it at all. Is this a sign of a bad oil pump? I've heard that oil pumps generally don't go bad on these. Is that true? I haven't removed the timing cover or oil pan yet, so I'm not sure what the lower end looks like right now.
I spent from 8am to 6pm yesterday working on getting the engine out and torn down for a rebuild. It was a long day, seeing as I have never, until this point, worked on a Roadster before.
I was very frustrated by the placement of the motor mount and header/carb nuts and bolts. In particular, those two large brass nuts that hold the bottom flange of the SU's on. In any case, about 6 hours later and covered with gobs of dirty grease, oil, and coolant, the engine was out:
The PO had the head rebuilt and it looks pretty nice. One less thing that I have to do I guess.
The engine supposedly had low compression on cylinders 1 and 2. The pistons and bores look very good with no scoring. This picture is after I used the ridge reamer to get rid of the top carbon build-up before popping the pistons out. This is how the engine sits right now, as I ran out of time.
One question: the car ran for a few minutes to put it onto the car trailer, and for a few minutes when I got it home. The PO put a brand new oil filter on it, but after removing the oil filter, there was no oil inside of it at all. Is this a sign of a bad oil pump? I've heard that oil pumps generally don't go bad on these. Is that true? I haven't removed the timing cover or oil pan yet, so I'm not sure what the lower end looks like right now.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
And the journey begins !
68 Datsun 2000 solex carbs matching number ... Now with long pipes
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
2 and 3 look like they have some unusual scoring on them. If the oil filter was DRY, I'd be freaked, but if not, then it probably just drained back down into the oil pan. It would have made one heck of a racket if it wasn't working at all. While they are reliable, if I was rebuilding the engine, as you are, I would want to know the condition of all parts and would strongly consider replacing the Oil Pump at the same time. You can check the gears for wear, and I believe there are clearances that are listed in the manuals and can be checked.
A note, it is not necessary to remove the carbs and starter to pull/replace the motor, in fact you want all that on when you put it back in, specifically to avoid the problem with the lower carb nuts.
Good luck, looks like uou are moving right along!
A note, it is not necessary to remove the carbs and starter to pull/replace the motor, in fact you want all that on when you put it back in, specifically to avoid the problem with the lower carb nuts.
Good luck, looks like uou are moving right along!
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
The scoring is very light. Almost light enough that you can see it but it doesn't feel like much. I'm hoping the flex-hone that I got will get rid of it.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
That motor looks pretty clean for just being pulled out
Might as well move the alt to the passenger side while you are at it.
Might as well move the alt to the passenger side while you are at it.
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
Are the wires and stuff long enough, or do you have to extend them? What's the main purpose of relocating it?RFR wrote:That motor looks pretty clean for just being pulled out
Might as well move the alt to the passenger side while you are at it.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
Bone dry. No oil whatsoever.notoptoy wrote:If the oil filter was DRY, I'd be freaked, but if not, then it probably just drained back down into the oil pan.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
Also, what does this hose do? One end goes to the lower block, and the other end goes to a small bulkhead. From the bulkhead, there is a small steel line that goes into the manifold that all the brake lines go to. The hose is dry rotted underneath the spring.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
Wow, that's really strange, how loud was it when running?
If there was no oil pressure at all, then I would suspect all the bearings are toasted.
Was there a "anti-drainback" tube in the oil filter - basically an aluminum tube that sticks up into the oil filter?
Perhaps the tube was wedged against the top of the filter, not allowing oil flow past that point?
Or the oil filter was wrong, and it was "reversed" in operation? I don't know, just grasping at straws here.
Definitely strange, as it looks like at least some oil was making it to the head.
If there was no oil pressure at all, then I would suspect all the bearings are toasted.
Was there a "anti-drainback" tube in the oil filter - basically an aluminum tube that sticks up into the oil filter?
Perhaps the tube was wedged against the top of the filter, not allowing oil flow past that point?
Or the oil filter was wrong, and it was "reversed" in operation? I don't know, just grasping at straws here.
Definitely strange, as it looks like at least some oil was making it to the head.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
Well, I found the exact same oil line on datsunparts...it's the oil pressure gauge line. But why does it go to the same aluminum manifold that the brake lines go to? Or is that just some sort of pass through "hub" for fluid lines?
It was a cheap STP oil filter (if that even matters, maybe the filter wasn't fitting right?), and there's no oil anti-drainback tube. Definitely a lot of oil under the valve cover when I took it off. It's stumping me too. The only oil on the filter was on the rubber seal. The car wasn't running that loud. I mean, it sounded about right for running on 2 cylinders and having a magnaflow muffler on it.
The car had TONS of exhaust smoke coming out of the PCV nipple on the valve cover. Where exactly does this amount of blow-by come from? Like, how does it enter the head underneath the valve cover. I looked to see where crankcase pressure enters the top of the head, but I can't find the location.
It was a cheap STP oil filter (if that even matters, maybe the filter wasn't fitting right?), and there's no oil anti-drainback tube. Definitely a lot of oil under the valve cover when I took it off. It's stumping me too. The only oil on the filter was on the rubber seal. The car wasn't running that loud. I mean, it sounded about right for running on 2 cylinders and having a magnaflow muffler on it.
The car had TONS of exhaust smoke coming out of the PCV nipple on the valve cover. Where exactly does this amount of blow-by come from? Like, how does it enter the head underneath the valve cover. I looked to see where crankcase pressure enters the top of the head, but I can't find the location.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
That would be your valve seals, though with that much blow-by your stems and guides may be shot. Either a bad head job, or the seals have dried up beyond usefulleness.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
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2017 C43 AMG
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
You will have to extend the wires, that's a minor job.Mainer311 wrote:Are the wires and stuff long enough, or do you have to extend them? What's the main purpose of relocating it?RFR wrote:That motor looks pretty clean for just being pulled out
Might as well move the alt to the passenger side while you are at it.
The benefits are: the alt is easier to get to........it lasts longer because it is on the "cool" side...........you can also replace it with a self regulating higher amp alt such as the GM "single wire"
I think the only reason it was moved to that side was to facilitate the smog pump, on earlier cars it was always on the passenger side.
Last edited by Roman on Mon Jul 16, 2012 1:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
Mainer311 wrote:Well, I found the exact same oil line on datsunparts...it's the oil pressure gauge line. But why does it go to the same aluminum manifold that the brake lines go to? Or is that just some sort of pass through "hub" for fluid lines?
It should not. it should be connected at a hardline under the battery. hard line to the gauge.
the "hub" is a proportioning valve. For brake fluid only.
David
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
I think the "hub" you are referring to is a clip that holds the brake lines and all in place. If you carefully trace the line, it goes into the firewall and to the gauge.
On the engine, I blame Dave!!
On the engine, I blame Dave!!
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
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1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
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1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
- Mainer311
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Re: Jordan's '68 1600 build thread
This car just keeps getting more and more interesting. I'll have to re-follow the hard line to see where it goes again to make sure I'm not crazy.
The valve seals were replaced when the head was rebuilt recently. The head was rebuilt by a performance shop in Concord, NH. I wonder if they f*cked it up?
The valve seals were replaced when the head was rebuilt recently. The head was rebuilt by a performance shop in Concord, NH. I wonder if they f*cked it up?
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".