THE A-ARM SHAFTS ARE HERE!!!!

[eddietude]

Hi all,

Well, the first couple of A-arm shafts are here, and IMHO, look great.

Here are some pics of both the "stock Nissan" a-arm and the "aftermarket a-arm)

I'll post a list of some basic info, and point out the minor differences which will NOT affect performance.

[eddietude]

[eddietude]

Ok, as you will see, here are the following differences:

1) The overall center of the shaft is thicker. This was due to ease of manufacturing.

2) The flat tabs that hold the shaft to the body are welded to the shaft, it's not all one piece like the stock component.

3) The flat tabs are a tad thicker than the stock tabs

4) The flat tabs are solid, where as the stock tabs have a "divot" on the underside.

5) The new unit weighs a little more than the stock unit, but not much. It's also stronger.

When bolted up, everything is in the exact same spot as the stock unit. The bushings are in the same place, the holes are in the same place, etc.

The grease holes are there, exactly in the same place as the stock units.

According to the manufacturer who does nothing but make aftermarket steering components, all work was done to standard suspension specs for welding, fabricating, etc.

The threads have been hardened, but the shaft itself was not. Hardening the shaft would make it brittle. Thus, in a crash, a hardened shaft would snap, which could then cause a loss of control in the seconds after an impact. A non-hardened shaft has the benefit of being able to "bend" in an impact, but not break, thus allowing some steering control in the moments after an impact.

[eddietude]

Ok,

If you have specific questions about the units, please post here, as others may have similar questions.

The price is $95 per unit, plus tax and shipping, assuming we get enough units sold. (From initial interest, I'm positive that's the case, but if only a few people want a couple of them, they might have to go up a few bucks. I doubt it though.)

The manufacturer said they would drop ship, and I'm going to see if it's possible to have everyone pay them directly.

For those who think they'd like to get some "on the side", the manufacture has told me that they will NOT sell them directly to anyone and all sales need to go through me FOR NOW, until the initial run is over. Once that has happened, they WILL sell them, but the price is going to jump, probably a bit.

This is the best price we'll get.

So anyone who is interested in purchasing any of these should contact me directly. Please do NOT post requests to purchase on this thread.

My direct e-mail address is: eddietude@socal.rr.com

Once I have a complete list, I'll send everyone the info on how to pay, etc, as I'm still working those details out.

[Linda]

Wow, record time Eddie. Good job!

I'm still unclear about knowing whether I need one of these. Can the part be checked without dismantling the suspension? Anyone know?

Thanks,
Linda

[Nissanman]

Can the part be checked without dismantling the suspension?

No, not too the extent of doing a complete visual.
An indicator of good integrity though, is the spindle nuts at each end of the spindle.
If they are reasonably easy to rotate on the threaded portions, it is highly likely that the spindle itself is in serviceable condition.
The usual cause of problems with these components is a lack of regular quality lubrication.
This will cause the spindle nuts to gall on the threads but still have rotational movement inside the "A" arm tubes.
While the suspension arms appears to still rotate OK, the ability to completely disassemble the spindle and nuts is all but impossible without damaging one or the other or both.
It is only then that you realise that all is not per design and components get trashed.

So, to answer your Q, it won't be 100% possible to verify the condition of the upper or lower spindle without at least attempting to dismantle it.

[eddietude]

Nissanman,

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying.

An indicator of good integrity though, is the spindle nuts at each end of the spindle.
If they are reasonably easy to rotate on the threaded portions, it is highly likely that the spindle itself is in serviceable condition.

When you say "spindle nuts" are you referring to the bushings that are on the end of the a-arm shafts?

When you say "spindle" are you referring actually to the shaft that the bearings go into on each end?

The bushings actually thread INTO the a-arm's and then the a-arm shaft, the piece I had made, threads into those bushings.

The shaft itself should move easily in the bearings.

The bearing to ARM is another thing.

Every single mechanic I've spoken with says they are tough to get out and require the use of an impact wrench to remove, as well as put back together, even when they are NEW.

The THREADS on the A-arm shaft, the piece I've had made, is what gets messed up, due to poor lubrication. (Or perhaps hitting a curb or some other type of suspension damage.)

But the bearing to ARM threads are always tight, and that has nothing to do with lubrication, as those do NOT get lubricated.

Bottom line, the only way to know if those are bad is to take them apart.

[keith0alan]

The quick way to tell if your's are worn out is to take it in for a front end alignment. If the come out and tell you they can't do it because the shafts are worn out you have your answer. BTDT

The other thing to do is jack the car up and support it by the frame. Take your jack and slowly start lifting the bottom a-arm and wigggle the suspension. If there is play in the bushings you should be able to see or feel it. (be very carefull messing around under the car!)

keith

[ppeters914]

The other thing to do is jack the car up and support it by the frame. Take your jack and slowly start lifting the bottom a-arm and wiggle the suspension. If there is play in the bushings you should be able to see or feel it. (be very careful messing around under the car!)

Well, I guess I know what I'm gonna do when I get home today or tomorrow. Half-way there as the car is already jacked up on the frame... since June 2006!

[eddietude]

If there is play in the bushings you should be able to see or feel it.

If there is play, the bushings are REALLY bad. Mine didn't have any play, but when I took them apart, the threads were all chewed up.

This happens usually because the car wasn't greased on a regular interval, the bushings get dry, and then they grind on the threads.

The bushings can feel tight, but actually have chewed threads, which mine all did, on my main car, as well as one of my parts cars.

If you've got the thing apart, the a-arm should also swing up and down on the bushing easily, and the bushings should screw into the a-arm shaft easily.

(The bushings screwing into the a-arm itself is another story.... that's where you need an impact wrench.

[SLOroadster]

I have to say, nice work on getting these done. Thats awesome. As for checking for wear, everything on mine looked good, except for the fact that they had a ton of slop in them. Mine were scary bad. I replaced the upper and lowers only to have some punk kill half of them when he hit me in 2006. (Seriously, they had been on the car for a month.) So much for those.

I can't say I need a set as all of mine are more or less new, however an extra set might be worth having. Are these the upper or lower ones? (Sorry, I haven't been following the thread.)

Will

[eddietude]

Lowers.

Uppers are still available from most of the vendors.

[eddietude]

Well it appears after all that, only TWO people have emailed about the a-arm shafts. The rest will be going to the vendors who've asked for them.

What that means is this: If you want one later, odds are the price is going to be considerably higher.

If you think you want some of these, I'd suggest contacting me ASAP, as I'm going to be putting the order in soon.

eddie