Windshield

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Bobby67
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Windshield

Post by Bobby67 »

I am new to the site. and was wondering where i may get a windshield for my 67 Fairlady roadster. I just got the car, It was a Family members car that past away. It has been sitting for several years. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Need to get it going, I promised his wife i would take her for a ride in it.
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mraitch
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Re: Windshield

Post by mraitch »

check the vendors on this site - fortunately for you you have found 311s. there are a host of people with knowledge about our cars. Sine you are new and the car has been sitting for quite some time, I suggest that you read through the entire TechWiki. There will be answers to questions you never thought to ask. well worth the time.

and welcome!!!

be sure to update the registry with your car info
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
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mraitch
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Re: Windshield

Post by mraitch »

there's a whole lot more likely to be done if sitting so long - bad gas, rust in the tank, detoriarating/seized brake cylinders, bleeding needed on all systems, replace engine and transmission oils, clean out carbs, put some oil through the top of engine and turn over with coil disconnected. amazingly these little cars are remarkably resilient - just need taking care of.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
C.Costine
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Re: Windshield

Post by C.Costine »

Let me second two of the points that mraitch made. The wheel cylinders collect water and will soon start rusting. get them bled TODAY! you may save $500.00 and a lot of time. I suggest converting to silicone fluid which will not attract water or hurt your paint. You need to bleed thoroughly until all of the old fluid is out. The top end lubrication: It takes awhile for the oil to make it up to the rocker arm assembly. Mine had sat for 15 years and the shaft galled before the oil got there. I suggest removing the cover and squirting some oil directly on it.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
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spl310
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Re: Windshield

Post by spl310 »

The closest would be Rising Sun Racing in Bristol Tennessee. Don Morrell. Good guy. Tell him I said hello if you contact him.
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TurboRagtop
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Re: Windshield

Post by TurboRagtop »

+1 on bleeding the brake cylinders. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it loves to grab moisture from the air and any other source. Hence, rusty wheel cylinders are all too common on a roadster that’s been parked for a long time. Get that old brake fluid out of there ASAP!
And good luck!
You found the right place at 311s.org
Karl Payne, Gilbert, AZ
1966 1600 roadster, 2.3L EFI Turbo Ford engine, FMIC, 2.5" exhaust, T-5 trans, 300ZX big brakes, stand-alone Megasquirt ECU/TunerStudio
DAC21
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Re: Windshield

Post by DAC21 »

Well my 41 year old (parked Roadster) Wheel cylinders must look like the Titanic by now LOL. Karps sleeves for sure on the rear. I guess there is no getting around $500 for the front calipers.
1967 1600 in waiting SPL311-09002 / R-28178
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mickspl311
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Re: Windshield

Post by mickspl311 »

metropartsmarket.com Are listing a new windshield for the roadster , My 66 could do with one but not sure it would get to me in Great Britain in one piece !!!
Bobby67
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Re: Windshield

Post by Bobby67 »

Thanks to all for replying. I am exited to get started on this little car. Wayne was fixing it for him and his wife to drive and enjoy but this stupid Virus got him. Sorry, got off the subject. Yes the brakes are no good. master is locked up. That's as far as i have gotten with the brakes. i put a battery in just to check the electrical and no power to the switch. So got to sort thru that as well. Lots to do just to get it running.
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TurboRagtop
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Re: Windshield

Post by TurboRagtop »

DAC21 wrote: Sun Oct 25, 2020 3:07 pm Well my 41 year old (parked Roadster) Wheel cylinders must look like the Titanic by now LOL. Karps sleeves for sure on the rear. I guess there is no getting around $500 for the front calipers.
Hey, add another $500 and for around a grand you can upgrade to the awesome 300ZX calipers and vented rotors up front.
So many plus factors:
+ Buy modern AL calipers at the parts store or Nissan dealer
+ Enjoy huge vented rotors with dust grooves
+ Replace brake pads in minutes
+ Flog it on the track, mountain roads, etc. and never worry about brake fade

Cons:
- You need to upgrade to 15 inch wheels

My $0.02
Karl Payne, Gilbert, AZ
1966 1600 roadster, 2.3L EFI Turbo Ford engine, FMIC, 2.5" exhaust, T-5 trans, 300ZX big brakes, stand-alone Megasquirt ECU/TunerStudio
DAC21
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Re: Windshield

Post by DAC21 »

TurboRagtop wrote: Tue Nov 10, 2020 5:08 pm
DAC21 wrote: Sun Oct 25, 2020 3:07 pm Well my 41 year old (parked Roadster) Wheel cylinders must look like the Titanic by now LOL. Karps sleeves for sure on the rear. I guess there is no getting around $500 for the front calipers.
Hey, add another $500 and for around a grand you can upgrade to the awesome 300ZX calipers and vented rotors up front.
So many plus factors:
+ Buy modern AL calipers at the parts store or Nissan dealer
+ Enjoy huge vented rotors with dust grooves
+ Replace brake pads in minutes
+ Flog it on the track, mountain roads, etc. and never worry about brake fade

Cons:
- You need to upgrade to 15 inch wheels

My $0.02
From what I have read , that when the original brake system is in good order the stock brakes are fine. No doubt my car will be a money pit as is. For what will be a Sunday Driver another $1500+ in brakes and wheels for now is not in the budget. After reading the "cost to paint" these cars thread over on the Facebook page I'm like :shock: :shock: :shock:
1967 1600 in waiting SPL311-09002 / R-28178
2018 Hyundai Elantra GT Sport Ultimate
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theunz
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Re: Windshield

Post by theunz »

Don’t get hung up on high dollar paint jobs. If you want to do more than just drive your car to local shows you’ll be happy with a mid level paint job. Some get hung up on using no filler and think everything must be an “all metal” repair. Filler when used properly will last for a very long time. If your car needs minimal body work then 2 or 3 thousand will get you very nice paint. From that point you will really see the law of diminishing returns take effect. Those $10,000 paint jobs look great until you get that first chip, scratch, or ding. Save those for high dollar show cars or museum pieces. You don’t want to go as cheap as Maco of course, but there are many options in between that and the high dollar jobs. Just find your comfort zone.
Mike M

Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!


1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
DAC21
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Re: Windshield

Post by DAC21 »

theunz wrote: Wed Nov 11, 2020 10:26 am Don’t get hung up on high dollar paint jobs. If you want to do more than just drive your car to local shows you’ll be happy with a mid level paint job. Some get hung up on using no filler and think everything must be an “all metal” repair. Filler when used properly will last for a very long time. If your car needs minimal body work then 2 or 3 thousand will get you very nice paint. From that point you will really see the law of diminishing returns take effect. Those $10,000 paint jobs look great until you get that first chip, scratch, or ding. Save those for high dollar show cars or museum pieces. You don’t want to go as cheap as Maco of course, but there are many options in between that and the high dollar jobs. Just find your comfort zone.

There are a lot of options for Paint in So. Cal. But when guys are saying on Facebook they are paying 3k for Maaco I took a big gulp. I will need minimal body work, maybe nothing I can't handle. Currently the car has yellow over the orig. gray so some say it had to be taken down to bare metal??? I'm ok with Maaco and I'm ok with single stage paint if that helps the budget providing it comes out good, I'm fine with not great.
1967 1600 in waiting SPL311-09002 / R-28178
2018 Hyundai Elantra GT Sport Ultimate
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rwmann
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Re: Windshield

Post by rwmann »

Back in 1978, I treated an earlier roadster to a $750 MAACO single-stage polyurethane overpaint in the #531 beige-gray metallic. Said paint was shedding in large sheets by 1980. Nice color and finish while it (and the car) lasted, though.
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theunz
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Re: Windshield

Post by theunz »

Maaco can lay the paint down decently. What they won’t do is prep your surface properly.
Mike M

Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!


1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
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