'69 2000, shop recommendations please

[Dino in Reno]

It's a 1969 2000, I will be trying to get it up and running over the fall and winter. I will need help
Long story for buying it, to be told later, maybe.
Mostly rust free with only a few square inches of rust-out at the right rear wheel arch, at the rear bottom. The floors and trunk wells look good. Reno is kind of dry after all.

My first plea for help is for a few shops you would recommend for engine work/rebuild, on the west coast from Sacramento up to Seattle or ? OK, LA too... Or a rebuilt or good running used engine I guess.
Chain noise until the oil pressure is up at first start, but I found the pressure drops far too low at a hot idle . No smoke of any color and no engine leaks.
Clutch slave cylinder was leaking, now replaced. Transmission seems ok.

There is a family history of having them, 30 years ago...
Thanks in advance,

Dino in Reno

[Dino in Reno]

Please?
If there is anyone local to Northern Nevada, you are more than welcome to drop by to give hints and a look-over of Dino's Folly...

Dino in Reno

[SLOroadster]

I think the closest guy to you is probably Mike Kerr in Placerville.

There is a guy here in Napa that is one of the best cylinder head guys in the country, he could do a nice engine for you. He's looking for "fun" builds rather than the high profile race engines he's been building for Ferrari North America or a few other large manufacturer Spec engines. Look up TEM Machine in Napa Ca.

You might not need a rebuild, perhaps just a spacer behind the upper tensioner. They all rattle briefly if they have been sitting for awhile (longer than about an hour or so.) Look at the upper guide and see if you A) have the evil L for the cam gear, and B) if the timing chain is chewing through it. If you have no L, and there isn't a huge amount of space behind the tensioner foot to the base, you are likely fine. As for the oil pressure dropping low while at idle, U20s have HUGE oil passageways and at idle they likely only have about 7 psi, as long as the needle on the gauge moves as soon as the rpm come up, you are likely fine.

Lets see some pics of the car. Its hard to make any suggestions without anything to see. Normally I'd be heading up to Reno this week for the Air Races, but since they are canceled, I'm not planning on heading up that way anytime soon.

Will

[unklpat]

Too much is made of shimming the tensioner. I've seen tensioners with 5 shims, 4 shims, and 3 shims. In all of these cases, the head had been cut, and needed cam tower spacers to make up the difference. An easy thing to check, is cam timing in relation to TDC. I replaced my chains, after bringing my cam timing up to 0 by shimming my towers .040, and using .040 over lash pads, and having too much play in the tensioner. Problem solved, no shims on tensioner, no rattle on startup, more bottom end. These cars didn't rattle when new, and as far as I know, didn't come with tensioner shims. I am just a pup, tho. Pat

[Dino in Reno]

Will and Pat, thanks!
I will add some photos, this is a project car that I likely spent too much on but there are reasons I wanted one to have running well by spring.
I will check out what you suggest. Until I signed on here I had not heard of the "Evil L" or cam tower spacers... I have new chains, tensioners, and gaskets, but not gears. I was thinking of a new oil pump, just because, as well as gears if needed. New flex brake lines and brake and clutch cylinders are on hand to put on. When I feel bolder I will check the timing and see what's up there and if the chains need to be replaced.

The four cylinder I have the most time working on is a 1943 MB Jeep... a bit simpler. Did you know a flat head jeep will run on Coleman stove fuel? Mine did, two cans got me to the gas pumps from 15 miles out in the desert.
Will, I am having air race withdrawal myself...

Dino in Reno
'69 Datsun 2000
'43 MB jeep
'86 Land Cruiser

[70-1600]

Dino - I have a very dear friend who lives in Sparks who is going to get back to me with a recommendation or two. I trust his recommendations; he’s been through several engine rebuilds of both domestic and foreign cars, and a number of motorcycles. He knows his stuff and knows people who know their stuff. I specifically asked for someone who he would trust working on a ‘69 2-liter single OHC Datsun Roadster. He’s also very “frugal”, so I trust he would recommend someone who wouldn’t take you to the cleaners for crappy work. Stand by...

-jt

[Dino in Reno]

JT, many thanks!

[Dino in Reno]

What the heck, here is the back story on my buying it. Have Kleenex handy.

35 or so years ago a pretty blond showed up to a friends house in a yellow 1600 roadster. 31 years ago we were married. About two years before that she lost her roadster to an engine fire, she did not have the money to get it rebuilt so bye bye roadster.
At least once a month after that for the next 30+ years she would look at everyone in the room, put a sad face on, and say "I miss my roadster".
When we had money, no good priced roadsters, when there was one at a good price, no money.
I just lost her to glioblastoma, they gave her six months to a year and a half, but she fought to over four years. The week she went into the hospital for the last time this yellow 2000 roadster showed up for sale. I was hoping for another of her "No way, no one recovers from that" comebacks, but she was just too tired.
So I want this for trips through the West, like she did. Not restored for shows, but rebuilt for driving on the dusty, pebble strewn Nevada and Sierra two lane roads.

Dino in Reno

[MattC]

I've never heard a better reason to own a roadster.

Very sorry for your loss, Dino.

[Gregs672000]

Dino, I'm so very sorry to hear of your loss and struggles. Life can be cruel, it often doesn't make sense or seem fair. Having worked in an ER for many years has made this very clear. I applaud your desire and actions to route your thoughts and energy into a positive opportunity to honor your wife, and I know she will be riding with you and sharing the love and smiles you will experience with the car. I wish you the best as you continue down the road of life. You always have friends and family here.
A Roadster engine is not a particularly difficult build. If you're unable to get a clear recommendation from us, I would spend some time interviewing a few shops to judge their attitude. You're looking for a humble expert... someone who will listen to you even if you're telling them something they already know, someone who will take the time to check on the the nuances of the U20 just to be sure. We are a good resource for info and parts if needed.
Not to sell you parts, but if the shop discovers the gears are too worn to use, I have a complete set of new gears I can offer at a very good price. I bought them for my own engine but found my gears to be fine, so I don't need them. There are specific things to look for in a worn gear, and again we are a resource for that info.
My best to you.

[70-1600]

Recommended from my buddy: Complete Auto and Restoration tel:356-2888 they should ask for Justin (he’s a BACA member who used to work on classic show cars for some millionaire here but now he kind of runs this classic care restoration shop).

BTW, BACA stands for Bikers Against Child Abuse. My buddy was a member of the local Reno chapter.

Good luck!

-jt

[Dino in Reno]

Thanks JT, I will call Monday.
Dino in Reno

[Dino in Reno]

Greg, Thanks! I will call on you if I need to change gears. OK, if I need them
She liked my silly puns...
With new chains, tensioners, and if needed gears, the last thing to check seems to be If I need shims for the cam if the head was milled. And maybe an oil pump, just because...

Dino in Reno

[SLOroadster]

From the pics you posted, you have a 1970 2l. I bet that paint will clean up quite a bit. Yes its got rust in areas, but if you are okay with that, a good polish with a rotary buffer will pull that oxidation right off and you will have bright shiny yellow paint. All in all, that is a pretty decent looking car from the pic you posted. It might have comp rear springs, or just very tired stock springs. From what I can see of the interior, its not bad either. A good starting point for sure.

Have you changed the oil and filter on it yet? 20/50 oil with a good filter (Nissan filter is the best, WIX/Napa Gold is second best) If you have pulled the oil filter, was the anti drainback tube there? (Aluminum tube that goes into the center of the filter base, extends upward about the length of your index finger.) The odds that you need a new oil pump are fairly low, these appear to be very robust pumps (No clue how many miles mine has on it, but I've put a little shy of 100K miles on my car myself, with a good amount of high rpm use.) A new set of rod bearings might not be a bad idea, those can be done with the engine in the car pretty easily. If you are pulling the engine and transmission to replace timing chains and guides, you might send the head out to be cleaned and freshened, its got to come off anyway to replace the timing cover.

Will

[Dino in Reno]

Will, Thanks for the info
It's really a '69, but it does have a '70 right fender...
No damage to the frame or suspension I could see, so I suspect a "fender bender" in it's past
Who ever had it before me did some odd mods. They removed the trunk key and release and routed a pull cable to the back of the interior, installed an electric antenna first in the drivers rear fender then back to the front for the "Realistic" radio that was "smushed" into place in the dash center console, and an electric 'interior" type light on the rear deck behind the hardtop...