1969 2000--NO POWER ANYWERE!

[wmckid68]

Hi All,

Just diving into this, afraid my ammeter has perhaps blown itself up out of protest, but hopeful/looking for guidance about other possibilities

1969 2000, SU, 5 Speed

I'm getting no lights when I turn the key.

Seems to have spontaneously failed during storage, as I've checked periodically over the convalescent period and had lights before.

Battery is Optima Red Top, but is old. Local, trusted, sports car mechanic tested with machine and says it should be good despite age.

Before car stalled out I replaced the Distributor/Coil with electronic parts from East Coast Roadster, (Thanks Tom!) battery cables were replaced, ballast resistor bypassed...(I will have to check that, but the car ran well with the parts installed...)

I've finally got my new fuel pump fitted, and I'm excited to try and get it started (sadly to help make it more saleable) but am feeling at a loss about where to start with this electrical issue.

I have a VOM and will be able to test ignition switch, I have a remote starter, so I think I should be able to connect that and see if the battery can turn the motor.

Does anyone have any good guidance about test points to help narrow the field at all.

Many thanks in advance,

Nic Close
SRL 31108481

[VonMussa]

Just replaced with an ECR EI as well. I’ve found the plug to the top of the cap is REALLY loose and can be bumped/wiggled off. Make sure it’s pushed down firmly.
Matt

[JT68]

If everything is dead, check the little starter harness. That brings power to the dash harness. There is a 3 or 4 prong connector behind the air filter below the master cylinders. If it is loose or disconnected, the whole car is dead.

[notoptoy]

Matt:
Remove the connector, and gently bend the ignition module terminals, just a touch to spread them and tighten up that connection. Also you can add a zip tie if you are really uncomfortable with the connection.

[notoptoy]

What JT says and yes, the ammeter also runs all the power through it. You can bypass the ammeter connecting the two terminals together ( a 30 amp inline fuse would be a good idea).

[Curtis]

Does your horn blow. The power for the horn and the ammeter both come from the starter harness. The horn power goes straight to the fuse box. As noted check the starter harness plug and terminals. If the horn blows and the plug is okay then move on to the ammeter.

See if this helps.
http://kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsun_char ... _69_70.pdf

This of course is all based on stock wiring that has not been hacked up.

[VonMussa]

Matt:
Remove the connector, and gently bend the ignition module terminals, just a touch to spread them and tighten up that connection. Also you can add a zip tie if you are really uncomfortable with the connection.

Thanks! Already did the bend trick and works great. Just took me two days to figure out the problem. The EI works GREAT though.

[wmckid68]

DEAR 311 FRIENDS--THANK YOU SO MUCH!

So many great leads here.

Quick field report before I dive back into my trouble shooting.

I am returned from the garage after some testing, some tweaks, and some confusing results...sigh...

Curtis--the horn trick was great! I think the horns themselves were removed by previous owner (which is why I've never heard them) but I can hear a click in the engine bay when I press the button, so that seems good!

Metered across all 8 fuses (either side of the terminals with fuses in place, didn't remove fuses) and had continuity, so that seems good.

I checked the 3 wire starter harness--it had been zip tied closed already someone other than me--possibly my mechanic, possibly PO. I cut the tie and cleaned the connections with spray cleaner.

There are two more plug sets here under the clutch MC--another 3 wire and a two wire--I cleaned those out too just in case. I also have a weird two wire male/female bullet connector here that is attached to nothing.

Tried the key and still have no dash lights...HOWEVER! THE MOTOR CRANKED! Which seems to indicate the ignition switch is working at least for that set of terminals...

Digging into the schematic and Tech Wiki now to see if I can figure out what the other two harnesses do.

Wish me luck please!

Best, N.

[JT68]

Dash lights are part of the lamp circuit, they are not on the ignition circuit, so the switch is not related. Do you have headlights? Brake lights? Check the rheostat connections too.

Glad you found the power.

[Curtis]

The other connectors next to the starter harness plug are for the rear harness and the bullet connectors for the reverse switch on the transmission. Apparently you are missing the 2 wire harness.

[wmckid68]

YOU GUYS!

THANKS! BRILLIANT!

I'm feeling a little like a numbskull for not realizing/testing the other electrical appliances in the cab earlier.

I have: Fan, Wipers, Headlights, S/Stop test light

I do not have: Gauges of any description, flashers, or dash lights. I feel like there used to be a green light that went on when I turned the ignition key to the run position and the gauges used to quiver into life (although the fuel gauge is seriously suspect...) which is why I'd decided I had nothing.

Also, until this afternoon, no amount of turning the key to "start" caused the motor to turn over, so I don't know if I "fixed" something by wiggling the connectors in front of the firewall, or the switch is wonky and is just now making connection.

Anyway, this is all very exciting and feels very much like "progress" however disparaged that idea may be by the modern age.

Studying wiring diagram close ups now, will return to the fray momentarily.

Again, many, many, thanks, total day lifter to be this far ahead of nowhere, which is the station my train left from this morning.

Best, N.

[Curtis]

No fuel and temp gauge would point to the gauge voltage regulator probably mounted to the side of the steering column. Your oil gauge should be mechanical. Generally the clock is only correct twice a day unless you've had it Framptonized. Jon Frampton, the gauge wizard.

http://www.kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsun_ ... _69_70.pdf