Roadster Mechanic

[yusef]

Hi all,

I don't post regularly but am an avid follower of the site. I wanted to share a recent experience I had. My roadster (69 2000) was having a whine clearly coming from the tranny in neutral (clutch to the floor and sound goes away). Rather than mess with the tranny myself, I thought best to take it to a shop. I took it to Z-expert in West Los Angeles on Venice Blvd...the reviews online seemed favorable and this shop was fairly local to my address. I explained the problem to shop owner and he quoted me quite the bill, but not being a transmission expert, I felt it worth it. In any case, the car sat at this shop for over 1.5 months. I would call regularly to ask status and they would tell me they are working on it. I didn't want to rush them because I knew it was delicate job. Anyway, this week they told me to come checkout the car, but that admittedly the sound is still there. I went to checkout the car and sure enough the sound is still there. We settled the bill to just pay for the bearings that were swapped out and a valve adjustment that was originally supposed to be comped. Anyway, on the drive home, literally, 3 miles away, the car jumps from 5th gear to neutral (I suspect this is the classic nut backing out issue). I call the shop and explain the issue and they basically tell me tough. I explain this wasn't an issue before I brought the car to you guys and the shop owner tells me that he's "tired of working on this tranny." I ask what he can do for me given the situation he recommends get a new transmission and he'll swap it out for $1500. Obviously, I'm not happy and I let him know I'll think about it.

I'm writing this to let other folks know to avoid Z-expert on Venice Blvd in SOCAL at all costs for your roadster needs. These guys clearly do not know what they are doing.

Thanks,
Yusef

[Linda]

Contact this CA dept and file a claim:
https://www.bar.ca.gov/
Sounds like they want you to buy another transmission and for 1500 dollars they will install it? I’d say steer clear, they had their chance.
Go to a GOOD Datsun mechanic Skip Miller, Pasadena, CA Miller Sports and Imports. Have him do a diagnosis on your car and the tranny to use in your case against the alleged scam shop. Take pics of odometer, do not drive the car. Flat bed to Skip’s.
My .02
Linda

[yusef]

Yes, that is exactly what they want me to do...total BS.
Much appreciated. Right now, my plan is to pull engine and trans myself and see about getting an estimate for the tranny repair. Not sure what recourse I have. I'll checkout the bar, but this is definitely a bummer.

[Linda]

I believe I heard that every time you file a claim it cost the shop a fee, so they don’t get off for free. The state may also list the number of complaints, they do that with other boards (Insurance). So you have a bit of leverage, at least.
Others hopefully will chime in, but it sounds like a clutch or clutch slave issue?. But the 5th gear neutral is not good.
Best of luck,
Linda

[yusef]

I was reading on the forum that this was due to rear main shaft nut backing out...? Is that accurate?

[Gregs672000]

I was reading on the forum that this was due to rear main shaft nut backing out...? Is that accurate?

Typically. Sorry to hear of your troubles. The trans is just about the only thing I've never tackled, but I haven't heard that they are anything particularly difficult vs other transmissions when you are aware of its quirks, one of which is securing that nut. I'm not a vindictive person, but that shop owners attitude would have me doing what ever I needed to do to expose him... social media, yelp, BBB complaint. His answer was simply unacceptable. You paid him good money for a job... its not your fault he got it wrong or that he underestimated the challenge. Not like he couldn't have educated himself almost instantly on the Web, on this very site if needed. If I'd paid by check I'd do a stop payment, by credit card I'd dispute the charge. The measure of a shop is often found when things go wrong and how they handle it. Just like morals.

Phasers on kill, blast him.

[notoptoy]

I was reading on the forum that this was due to rear main shaft nut backing out...? Is that accurate?

That or that the 5th gear itself is bad. There are two types of 5th gear, early "non-splined" and later "splined" versions. The gear is actually two components pressed together, basically a hub and the gear. The non-splined have been known to spin on themselves. They can be welded, or replaced with the splined type. The replacements are very expensive.
If you go with a weld repair, make sure you get someone who knows what the heck they are doing.

[2mAn]

Sorry to hear about this Yusef.

Ironically, I know another Roadster owner who also just took their car to them for an oil pan gasket change and got the car back leaking more oil than it did prior to them touching it.

Sounds like Z-Expert is a Roadster-Newb ...

[Linda]

Jeez, who can screw up an oil pan gasket change...
True story, I took my car into “ Sam’s Datsun” and told the guy the car was leaking and I wanted him to change the oil pan gasket. He said he would have to pull the engine! I said No, the oil pan gasket is fully accessible, no engine pull needed. He repeated himself three times while smiling. I told him it was not a rear main seal, just a gasket, so since he didn’t know the difference, adios.
He knew, just trying to rip me off
Linda

[yusef]

I was reading on the forum that this was due to rear main shaft nut backing out...? Is that accurate?

That or that the 5th gear itself is bad. There are two types of 5th gear, early "non-splined" and later "splined" versions. The gear is actually two components pressed together, basically a hub and the gear. The non-splined have been known to spin on themselves. They can be welded, or replaced with the splined type. The replacements are very expensive.
If you go with a weld repair, make sure you get someone who knows what the heck they are doing.

So I do have a new welded fifth gear (from Dean, installed back in 2018 at a shop in the valley), so unless this Z "expert" shop swapped my fifth gear, I'm pretty sure it's the nut backing off issue because of their shoddy workmanship.

Is there a guide to to getting to that transmission nut so I can do the repair myself?

[notoptoy]

Scott Scheeler's book is pretty good.

[MattGabe]

Ironically, I know another Roadster owner who also just took their car to them for an oil pan gasket change and got the car back leaking more oil than it did prior to them touching it.

That would be me.
I was also about 3 miles down the road from Z-Expert and used them twice. They were pleasant enough to me...but I would definitely not recommend then for Roadster work...or really any work that you'd like done well. Even thought they take...forever, it would appear that they rush their work.

1st Experience: Install Solex Carbs and intake
• charged a lot
• took nearly a month?
• cut my stock SU crankcase vent hose to about 3" and added a crappy white PVC elbow and filter...basically right on top of the engine cover (looked terrible and wasted a $70 hose)
• mangled the solex throttle guide with vise grips (teeth marks all over, squeezed the clamp area and ruined the shape, and stripped the screw tightening screw hole) because the throttle cable on the car wasn't working. This could have been easily avoided by getting a new throttle cable...or telling me about it so I could get a new throttle cable (which i did after getting the car back).
• they installed and charged me for a new distributor which i dont think i needed. It uses some sort of vacuum line from the intake manifold, which ive never seen on a roadster. I noticed scratches around the area they installed a nipple into the manifold. Loved seeing that on the NOS unubtainium manifold.
• Less than a mile from the shop, the throttle was sticking open when stopped in traffic — and would only close after blipping the pedal. I called them and they said drive it over the weekend and see if it gets better. it didnt get better.
• brought it back, waited another week, went to get it and on pickup i had about 1.5 inches of usable gas pedal play. As in: slight pressure on the peddle and its floored. As in: there is no way they took this car for a test drive after doing whatever they did. I made them fix it while i waited there after they closed on a friday.
• they were also supposed to do an oil change, and oil pan gasket change to stop a leak. I have them all the parts for this...work was not done.

2nd Experience: Oil Pan Gasket and Oil Change
• charged a lot, took a week
• sent pictures of the bottom of the car all cleaned up and said they kept it in the same spot for a couple days to make sure it wasnt leaking
• drove it home, parked it, took it out 2 days later to find more oil had leaked out then what would previously leak out.

Z-Expert sucks. Sean who i dealt with when picking up and dropping off was cool...but he didnt seemingly work on the car at all.

[jrusso07]

I was reading on the forum that this was due to rear main shaft nut backing out...? Is that accurate?

That or that the 5th gear itself is bad. There are two types of 5th gear, early "non-splined" and later "splined" versions. The gear is actually two components pressed together, basically a hub and the gear. The non-splined have been known to spin on themselves. They can be welded, or replaced with the splined type. The replacements are very expensive.
If you go with a weld repair, make sure you get someone who knows what the heck they are doing.

So I do have a new welded fifth gear (from Dean, installed back in 2018 at a shop in the valley), so unless this Z "expert" shop swapped my fifth gear, I'm pretty sure it's the nut backing off issue because of their shoddy workmanship.

Is there a guide to to getting to that transmission nut so I can do the repair myself?

Scott’s book is a really good guide on 5
Speed rebuild. There are two types of main shaft nuts, early have a single nut that requires massive torque to seat - 165 ft lbs IIRC. You need to bolt a torque arm to the center plate that is at least 4 ft long to get the leverage you need. JT 68 has the tool to grab the nut...it’s a big nut. I got one and it works great. You also need a lock plate that essentially pics up the flats on the nut and holds it to the shaft. JT has these too. Later version use two lock nuts. Still require massive torque.

Z 5 speeds aren’t much different than roadsters. I am surprised your Z expert couldn’t correct the problem. pisses me off too... I have taken a number of 5 speeds apart and only once did if find the lock nut loose. If you can shift back to 5th and transmit power to wheels, then it’s not a 5th gear issue (Splined or press fit). It could be loose or improperly located lock nut or excessive play in the gear train. I believe there is a thrust washer that goes on before the nut...my Scott Sheerer books are packed away. See item 105 in this diagram https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/s ... ed-(servo)

How does reverse fair? The reverse and 5th use the same shift rod. Try driving a short distance in reverse and see if it pops out of gear. If it does, There is a selector spring that mIgor be missing.

[yusef]

Thanks for the info Joe.

My box is a warner (brass) synro rings. Does this thrust washer still apply? Reverse felt fine yesterday, but was reluctant to drive it any further in case of catastrophic failure. Engine and tranny are out today.

Is the rear nut, and possible culprit the one in the attached pic circled in red? This is a pic of my tranny when it was partially disassembled at the shop.

Also, I could shift into fifth gear, but would not stay in place unless I held it there. Also, didn't matter what RPM, would not stay in fifth.

Thanks.

[Datrock]

It might be worth removing the bolt on the side of the tranny that holds the 5th and reverse detent ball to see if there is a spring and ball under the bolt, it is the lower one of the three on the side of the center plate. A small magnet will work to find out if they are both there. I mention this since there are notches on the shift fork that rely on the detent ball to keep the gear engaged in 5th and reverse, not saying the detent ball is the cause but it's a possibility that the shop left something out in that area and worth checking before you crack it open. Plus on the detent bolts, there are two lengths of bolts, the longer of the two lengths goes in the side detents, so there is room for errors in this area of the tranny.