Repaint or Leave Original?

[ARowe84]

Thanks guys! Didn't expect to come back on here and see somebody else post a picture of my car, pretty cool! You guys have me sold on the idea of keeping it original. I've got replacement side brightwork I may throw on but it sounds like taking off the old stuff will be a major PITA. Hope you are doing well Cole, you'll have to come back and drive it now that the carb float isn't sinking

[ARowe84]

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[datsun1500]

You are crazy if you repaint that. No way is that detrimental to the looks of that car. It’s perfect to me.

[Alvin]

Count me in for leaving the paint as is/correcting. It's only original once certainly applies here!

Pics from the fun run we did...and for Pete (Peters) Sake, paint the entire car, including the engine bay if you do a resto down the line.

[dynaguy]

Grab some 0000 steel wool to polish up existing chrome, does wonders. Follow up with chrome polish to get shine and protection. Sweet car, the original paint is part of it's story. Pat

[ARowe84]

Thanks everybody! Project for tomorrow...going to start polishing!

[C.Costine]

I recommend a little protection to stop the rust in places like where that right fender meets the valance. Some rust converter, if you get the right one, will not only convert the visible rust to iron phosphate so that it will be black instead of brown, but it will also creep in to where you can't see to stop the rust from growing. I use Rust Mort from SEM. It is watery thin and nearly colorless.

[Pjackb]

Not sure if these were single stage or B/C paint but if single stage follow this guide

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2014/11/2 ... age-paint/

You don’t have to do everything in the guide the 2 important steps are good cleaning and polish , waxing or glazing is optional . You can do this by hand (and should) and don’t have to be an expert and you’ll get amazing results
Good luck

[Gregs672000]

I recommend a little protection to stop the rust in places like where that right fender meets the valance. Some rust converter, if you get the right one, will not only convert the visible rust to iron phosphate so that it will be black instead of brown, but it will also creep in to where you can't see to stop the rust from growing. I use Rust Mort from SEM. It is watery thin and nearly colorless.

I was going to say the same thing here about the rust spot seen on the rear. I too have used SEM products, including Rust Mort. I prefer their Rust Seal as it does not have to be coated/painted to maintain the protection like Rust Mort. Used it 34 years ago and the treated areas that are still exposed remain rust free. I would clean out crevasses where sheet metal meet up (like where, inside the trunk, the wheel well meets the fender) using a small stiff brush to get the years of dirt in the seams, blow it out or vacuum, then brush in the Rust Seal. It will seep into spots between the sheet metal and kill the rust... not perfect, but a LOT better than no treatment. I would go over the entire car looking for places to treat... there are many spots where moisture sits and rusts the car. I also used an aerosol rust converter product to spray some protection into areas that are hard to reach using a straw like that comes with carb cleaner cans (one example would be behind the front fender in the door jamb area near the hinges). You can go over the car, lightly dab rust converter into the little rock chips, and use a touch up pen to fill the spot. Smoothing out those dots with say 1000 grit sand paper (if needed) followed by the cut and buff I suggested (could probably go with a product that starts aggressive but breaks down to a very light compound) will greatly improve things and most will almost disappear.

[C.Costine]

I recommend a little protection to stop the rust in places like where that right fender meets the valance. Some rust converter, if you get the right one, will not only convert the visible rust to iron phosphate so that it will be black instead of brown, but it will also creep in to where you can't see to stop the rust from growing. I use Rust Mort from SEM. It is watery thin and nearly colorless.

I was going to say the same thing here about the rust spot seen on the rear. I too have used SEM products, including Rust Mort. I prefer their Rust Seal as it does not have to be coated/painted to maintain the protection like Rust Mort. Used it 34 years ago and the treated areas that are still exposed remain rust free. I would clean out crevasses where sheet metal meet up (like where, inside the trunk, the wheel well meets the fender) using a small stiff brush to get the years of dirt in the seams, blow it out or vacuum, then brush in the Rust Seal. It will seep into spots between the sheet metal and kill the rust... not perfect, but a LOT better than no treatment. I would go over the entire car looking for places to treat... there are many spots where moisture sits and rusts the car. I also used an aerosol rust converter product to spray some protection into areas that are hard to reach using a straw like that comes with carb cleaner cans (one example would be behind the front fender in the door jamb area near the hinges). You can go over the car, lightly dab rust converter into the little rock chips, and use a touch up pen to fill the spot. Smoothing out those dots with say 1000 grit sand paper (if needed) followed by the cut and buff I suggested (could probably go with a product that starts aggressive but breaks down to a very light compound) will greatly improve things and most will almost disappear.

While doing the body work on mine I used a syringe to inject Rust Mort in between the metal sheets of spot weld joints

[Mackn367]

First - you have a very nice roadster there

If it was a different yellow like the very bold showy yellow on corvettes and others alike I’d say repaint - but the yellow you have looks awesome. Definitely the style I would pick if I chose yellow/red/blue/etc. I like the modest style yellow.

So all in all I say leave it original, give it a nice clay, wax, and buff and enjoy it on the road.

[ARowe84]

Thanks everybody, great advice and recommendations! I used steel wool on the chrome today, next will be stopping the rust.

[ARowe84]

Thanks everybody, great advice and recommendations! I used steel wool on the chrome today, next will be stopping the rust. In regards to stopping the rust and which product to use. Does Rust Seal also dry mostly clear like Rust Mort? I would be applying it over the paint so whatever product looks most natural would be ideal.

[C.Costine]

Thanks everybody, great advice and recommendations! I used steel wool on the chrome today, next will be stopping the rust. In regards to stopping the rust and which product to use. Does Rust Seal also dry mostly clear like Rust Mort? I would be applying it over the paint so whatever product looks most natural would be ideal.

I haven't used that one but I looked it up and I get the impression that you will end up with black over your yellow.

[ARowe84]

But rust mort you think would blend ok with the paint color?