Ohhh I hate that
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- dads311
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- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2016 9:24 pm
- Location: Emmett, Id.
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
Ohhh I hate that
Yesterday I was going to go look at a roadster a new member had just purchased that wasn't far from me. Jump in my roadster start cranking and after about a half revolution it stops, dead, just like the battery was gone. Nothing, I tried the key a couple more times and nothing. Not a click, nothing. So I figured I'll have to check it tomorrow since I didn't have time to mess with it then.
So today I go out disconnect the battery and pull the wires off the back of the starter switch, make some jumper wires, grab my meter and check the switch. I thought of the switch first because it has been suspect for a while anyway but it checks out OK. So then I look at the wire to the solenoid and of course I can't get my hand down to it and I'm thinking I don't want to have to pull the intake off again. So I decided it was lunch time.
Came in and remembered I had read something about cutting the triangle panel out of the way to get to the starter. Logged into the 311s site and did a search and sure enough there it was with pictures, I knew what I had to do next. With the panel gone it is amazing how easy it is to reach the starter. I then pulled the start wire off the solenoid and tested the wire between the switch to the starter, all good. So next I thought let me do the test with power so I reconnected the battery and tested the voltage into the switch. It was good 12.8 volts. Tested voltage at the starter again 12.8 volts. Tested the start wire from the switch to the starter again 12.8 volts.
So now I'm thinking switch is good, wires are good, voltage is good so it must be a bad starter. I decided it was break time so I come in grab a cold one out of the fridge and sit down to check the tech wiki for the correct starter numbers. I had put in a high torque starter when I was putting the car together a couple years ago but you never can tell about quality with things today. So I find the correct starter and get it ordered from that ebay place.
I go back out to the shop and decide to put everything back in place so I don't mess up and and put them on wrong when the new starter gets here. Then I decide what the heck I'm going to hook up the battery and try the key one more time. She fires right off... WTF... Must be a fluke. Try it again 6 more times and every time just like the last. So now I have a spare starter on the way and I have no idea what the problem really was. All I can figure is it was a loose connection somewhere or I am so good I can fix things just by touching them; not. I decided I was going to go out and crimp all of the spade connectors down just a bit to make sure they are all tight and wait for the next gremlin to make itself known.
Mike
So today I go out disconnect the battery and pull the wires off the back of the starter switch, make some jumper wires, grab my meter and check the switch. I thought of the switch first because it has been suspect for a while anyway but it checks out OK. So then I look at the wire to the solenoid and of course I can't get my hand down to it and I'm thinking I don't want to have to pull the intake off again. So I decided it was lunch time.
Came in and remembered I had read something about cutting the triangle panel out of the way to get to the starter. Logged into the 311s site and did a search and sure enough there it was with pictures, I knew what I had to do next. With the panel gone it is amazing how easy it is to reach the starter. I then pulled the start wire off the solenoid and tested the wire between the switch to the starter, all good. So next I thought let me do the test with power so I reconnected the battery and tested the voltage into the switch. It was good 12.8 volts. Tested voltage at the starter again 12.8 volts. Tested the start wire from the switch to the starter again 12.8 volts.
So now I'm thinking switch is good, wires are good, voltage is good so it must be a bad starter. I decided it was break time so I come in grab a cold one out of the fridge and sit down to check the tech wiki for the correct starter numbers. I had put in a high torque starter when I was putting the car together a couple years ago but you never can tell about quality with things today. So I find the correct starter and get it ordered from that ebay place.
I go back out to the shop and decide to put everything back in place so I don't mess up and and put them on wrong when the new starter gets here. Then I decide what the heck I'm going to hook up the battery and try the key one more time. She fires right off... WTF... Must be a fluke. Try it again 6 more times and every time just like the last. So now I have a spare starter on the way and I have no idea what the problem really was. All I can figure is it was a loose connection somewhere or I am so good I can fix things just by touching them; not. I decided I was going to go out and crimp all of the spade connectors down just a bit to make sure they are all tight and wait for the next gremlin to make itself known.
Mike
Mike
rebuilt dads 67.5 1600
1952 GMC 302ci 6cyl w/cam and 3 deuces
1965 Mustang (Wife's)
1971 Nova (Son Claimed)
rebuilt dads 67.5 1600
1952 GMC 302ci 6cyl w/cam and 3 deuces
1965 Mustang (Wife's)
1971 Nova (Son Claimed)
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- Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
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Re: Ohhh I hate that
I have had the experience a few times of getting lead oxide in a battery terminal. It is not easy to see because it is gray. It will form when the connection is not quite tight so that when you turn the key the amp draw is too much for the surface area of the good connection, so an arc will jump and lead oxide takes the place of more of the small good area. Removing and reinstalling the battery terminal can clean enough oxide out of the way for it to start a few more times. I good cleaning of connections will probably reveal the problem connection. They need to be shiny.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
- Solex68
- Site Supporter
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- Joined: Fri May 25, 2012 3:30 pm
- Location: Laguna Hills, CA
- Model: 2000
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
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Re: Ohhh I hate that
Well, having a spare starter is not a bad idea anyway. I keep a spare starter, water pump and and alternator just in case. I swear having the spare is like reverse jinxing yourself and you'll never need the spares, but I'd rather be in that situation anyway.
Greg a.k.a SOLEX68 - http://www.datsunvents.com/
Laguna Hills, CA
68 2000
Always willing to help another Datsun Roadster owner
Pending installs: SS brake lines, Stan Stealth Dizzy
Laguna Hills, CA
68 2000
Always willing to help another Datsun Roadster owner
Pending installs: SS brake lines, Stan Stealth Dizzy
- dads311
- Roadster Fanatic-Site Supporter
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- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2016 9:24 pm
- Location: Emmett, Id.
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
Re: Ohhh I hate that
Greg, I agree having a spare is OK but not knowing what caused the problem in the first place is what is unsettling. But I am just going to roll with it for now. Thanks
Mike
Mike
Mike
rebuilt dads 67.5 1600
1952 GMC 302ci 6cyl w/cam and 3 deuces
1965 Mustang (Wife's)
1971 Nova (Son Claimed)
rebuilt dads 67.5 1600
1952 GMC 302ci 6cyl w/cam and 3 deuces
1965 Mustang (Wife's)
1971 Nova (Son Claimed)
-
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 334
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2013 12:36 pm
- Location: Redding, CA
Re: Ohhh I hate that
Could be the solenoid. On occasion, I’d have to give mine a whack to wake it up. I’ve since replaced the starter.
John
SRL311-05287
SRL311-05287
- redroadster
- Roadsteraholic
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- Location: KCMO
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Re: Ohhh I hate that
Multimeter - voltage drop test
Datsun dealer tech 76 to 87
Mitsubishi tech 9 yrs
Volvo, Kia, Toyota too
6 month - Rolls Royce
ASE MASTER TECH 96. - 11
70 SPL 86 Z31 T , Sportster
Mitsubishi tech 9 yrs
Volvo, Kia, Toyota too
6 month - Rolls Royce
ASE MASTER TECH 96. - 11
70 SPL 86 Z31 T , Sportster
- amazgjoe
- Roadster Fanatic
- Posts: 114
- Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:10 pm
- Location: Syracuse,NY
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
Re: Ohhh I hate that
I have to clean the spade connection at the starter solenoid every year because of this. I haven"t had a problem since.
1967 1600 (Doris)
1967 1600 restored (Former Linusrp)
1987 Porsche 924s
2004 Ralliart Lancer
1967 1600 restored (Former Linusrp)
1987 Porsche 924s
2004 Ralliart Lancer
- Gregs672000
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- Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:47 pm
- Location: Tacoma, WA
Re: Ohhh I hate that
In my experience, no click has always meant a problem with the connection to the solenoid. I bet that your wire had popped off the spade connector or was just not making contact. It sure is easier to get to the starter with the triangle out eh? The wiring there gets baked by the exhaust. I have since covered mine with some cloth tube heat shielding, and have "wrapped" my header with heat shielding (not header wrap) that works so well that I no longer need a heat shield for my carbs.
Greg Burrows
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
- Linda
- Fraternal Den Mother-RIP
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Re: Ohhh I hate that
The starter harness takes a beating from the heat. Might consider replacing it and/or putting the shielding covering on it.
The connectors at the top of it have given me trouble also
Linda
The connectors at the top of it have given me trouble also
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
- DCooke
- Roadster Fanatic
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- Joined: Mon May 03, 2004 10:58 am
- Location: Cary, IL
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Re: Ohhh I hate that
Yup, I 2nd that comment on cleaning the spade connection on the starter. I was having similar issues and a good cleaning of the starter connection solved my issues.
Dave Cooke
Cary, IL
1968 1600
1969 1600
2016 BRZ
Chicagoland chapter of the Dairyland Datsuns
Cary, IL
1968 1600
1969 1600
2016 BRZ
Chicagoland chapter of the Dairyland Datsuns
- 23yrRebuild
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Re: Ohhh I hate that
Hey Greg,
Please tell us more about your header heat shielding (not header wrap), I'd really like to know, what you know works for you.
Please tell us more about your header heat shielding (not header wrap), I'd really like to know, what you know works for you.
MikeGregs672000 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 08, 2020 1:02 pm I have since covered mine with some cloth tube heat shielding, and have "wrapped" my header with heat shielding (not header wrap) that works so well that I no longer need a heat shield for my carbs.
Mike - '67 Stroker / 5-Speed