Gutless, no power

[Nissanman]

The firing order as you may know is 1-3-4-2.
Normally #1 is located at the index mark on the distributor cap which when viewed from the top is about at 11 o'clock on the cap.
If the oil pump distributor drive spindle is inadvertently inserted 180deg out then the distributor rotor will also be 180deg out and #1 will now be at about 5 o'clock on the cap [usually the position for #4].
This incorrect setting can easily be the result of having cylinder #1 at TDC on the EXHAUST stroke instead of the COMPRESSION stroke
By re-organising the plug leads with #1 at 5 o'clock as above the engine will work just fine.
But, as I said before, unless you are well aware of this, it makes life tough when following any Workshop Manual that will assume the correct factory sequencing and timing

[C.Costine]

I had mine 180 degrees out when I first tried to start it. It would not run. It would fire on only one or two cylinders. I agree with checking compression first. It is a very easy way to eliminate major problems.

[bossbob]

Thanks again, I'm out this weekend but when I get back I'll run a compression test, then check for TDC with #1 piston up on compression stroke, check the distributor position, then check the carb pistons, needles, and report back.

[Linda]

You might need to retorque the head if it has never been done in who knows when. But that can be tricky since those head bolts could be rusted and snap. Good job for a pro mechanic, then if he snaps one he can fix it.....
A correct torque is important of course, ARP studs make it easier.
Good luck
Linda

[bossbob]

Tomorrow I plan on working on the car, running the compression test on it, forward through the carbs. My little mind is telling me that since this car sat for so many years before I got it that there may be some build up or corrosion on the needles or piston or inside the piston where the needles ride so no matter how much I turn the needles up or down there just not making any adjustment. Remember, the pistons are sticking after a day or 2 of not running them.

Since I don't know much, really nothing about these carbs, I'll start by removing the domes, will the oil pour out the bottom when I remove them? Will I have access to the needles at that point. As far as cleaning the pistons and domes, what is recommended? I checked the wiki, but didn't really see what I was looking for.

Any input is appreciated.

[notoptoy]

You can remove the domes without fear of the oil pouring out. One thing to consider, if these have both been apart at the same time, someone could have mixed up the two domes and plungers - they are matched sets. You could try swapping them and see if that stops the sticking. If it doesn't make it worse - it could help.

[Nissanman]

*WARNING*
Keep the parts separate for the front and rear carbs.
DO NOT intermix the parts.
Hehehehe until further notice as mentioned above!
You can use aerosol carb cleaner or brake cleaner to clean all the parts.
There is very little oil involved so don't let that worry you.
The Tech Wiki has a section on bench setting the 1600 carb jet needles which is very helpful.
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... sNewSuTech
I followed it when re-assembling my 1500 carbs.
Although not spot on it got me in the ball park and some minor adjustment of the jet needle seat height was all that was required

[Linda]

Tech Wiki has good info. Don’t use sandpaper. You can check that needlea are straight by putting in a drill and spinning. Bent needles can cause a hang up in carb. Parts that have been sitting for a long time are worth cleaning, lots of gunk sometimes.
Linda

[bossbob]

Compression test results:

The good:
Cyl #1 = 145 psi
Cyl #2 = 150 psi
Cyl #3 = 140 psi
The BAD
Cyl #4 = Nada, zip, nothing, zilch, goose egg, ZERO

Rocker arms and valves seem to be moving freely on all cylinders.

Supposedly a rebuilt engine some years ago per the PO.

I blew compressed air in #4 and it's escaping through the spark plug hole in #2. Broken valve maybe? Both valves on #4 are closed during the test.

[Linda]

Did you try a squirt of oil in the #4 spark plug hole with a repeat compression test?
were the valves ever adjusted previously ?
Any overheating or water in the oil?
Might have to pull the head and get things checked.
Sounds like an unlucky situation. But engine can be rebuilt if necessary or there are used engines around, advertise for one here, if needed.
Let’s see what the gurus say....
Linda

[redroadster]

Check if the valves are too tight on 4. If not. or with a air nozzel. 20psi hear whats leaking
Boroscope time

[C.Costine]

Compression test results:

The good:
Cyl #1 = 145 psi
Cyl #2 = 150 psi
Cyl #3 = 140 psi
The BAD
Cyl #4 = Nada, zip, nothing, zilch, goose egg, ZERO

Rocker arms and valves seem to be moving freely on all cylinders.

Supposedly a rebuilt engine some years ago per the PO.

I blew compressed air in #4 and it's escaping through the spark plug hole in #2. Broken valve maybe? Both valves on #4 are closed during the test.

I would say that you have a bent valve stem or burned valve and some of the air that you are blowing in is going over to #2 through the manifold. You will need to pull the head in order to repair it whichever it is. The good news is that you have good compression otherwise.

[bossbob]

Linda, it's not even trying to make pressure, don't think oil is going to seal it up, no water in the oil.

Redroadster, valves are set cold at .18 - .19 with the feeler gauge, air is coming through the #2 cyl.

C.Costine, I think this is what makes the most sense. sounds like I'll unfortunately have to pull the head to find out.

Could be worse I guess, not quite enough wrong with it to justify an SR20 swap...... YET!

[redroadster]

Ive seen a valve catch a fragment of carbon and hold it right on the sealing ridge
Id pressureize the 4 cly with 15lbs it will show the problem .could save time and work if its that
Also a slow / sticking valve is a possibility

[bossbob]

Walk me through it Red, why 15 lbs? assuming both valves closed? Pressurize and hold for how long? What am I expecting? As mentioned before, I can clearly hear the air coming through #2, should I have a spark plug in #2 or leave it open?

I put it back together, but that's no problem, fired it up just to see, noticed the new valve cover gasket isn't re-usable friendly.

I'll give anything a try.......