Gutless, no power

[bossbob]

So, I rolled the roadster out to adjust the slave/clutch and while testing the new adjustments the car is really running crappy.

No power, gutless, backfiring through the carbs, won't rev under load. I thought I had it running decent in the driveway, but no way.

Also, carbs are going dry after sitting a few weeks, is this normal? Taking for ever to pump fuel back to the carbs to start. (new pump)

Also, carb pistons are sticking after sitting for awhile, I have to manually lift them then to break them loose, then they seem to move freely. I can't imagine it is a bent needle since they both stick.

?????

[23yrRebuild]

When is the last time you ran, or drove it ? ....if it's been long enough, it could be "sticky" carburation and fuel delivery components, ....the float valves and carb body jets can get gooey after sitting a few months, depending on gas quality, overall carb conditions, etc. ....and affect starting and running issues....IMHO...
Mike

[nismou20]

Running in your driveway = without load. If it’s backfiring when driving, carbs might be lean

[Nissanman]

As for the carbs going dry, I have that as would most Roadsters I think.
I put it down to the float bowl vents open to the atmosphere and time.
To solve that issue at next startup, I remove the overflow tube banjo bolts and fill the float bowls with a little can I have that has a long narrow spout.
Once the fuel covers the float, visible through the top of the float bowl, replace the banjo bolts, rinse away any spilt fuel, and you are good to go.
With everything else being equal, the engine should fire up and commence to pump the fuel from the tank whilst running on the fuel you intravenously supplied to the carb float bowls.

[dynaguy]

Plugs wires on in correct order?? BTDT Pat

[Gregs672000]

Plugs wires on in correct order?? BTDT Pat

1 3 4 2 counter clockwise. First place to start.

[bossbob]

Okay, firing order is confirmed 1-3-4-2, carb pistons were stuck again after 2 days. I guess pull the domes, clean the pistons, can I inspect the needles at that point. Also, I turned the needles all the way in and all the way out with little difference in revving up. Just coughs and seems like it's starving for fuel.

Do these engines run if the distributor is 180 out?

[Nissanman]

Do these engines run if the distributor is 180 out?

Yes, there are two settings where the timing order is correct.
But if you are following any sort of workshop manual it is very wise to set up the distributor to the factory setting to avoid any misunderstandings
Not hard to do since the distributor drive gear is easily extracted and re-positioned to the correct orientation.
Just spin the oil pump drive shaft to the correct position an re-insert the drive gear as per the Workshop Manual.

Oil pump and dist drive.jpg

[Linda]

Did you tighten the domes down a little at a time evenly? And as you tighten, push the pin up and be sure pistons are dropping nicely all the way thru. Piston groove can have dirt that can hang it up also
Otherwise possibly the nozzles may not be centered.

Linda

[C.Costine]

Bob, What all have you done since it last ran well?

[theunz]

Have you checked the timing? I distributor can slip over time. Have you checked your point gap?

[bossbob]

Bob, What all have you done since it last ran well?

The only thing I've done is change the points, condenser, and coil, when I 1st got the car. I was tickled that it fired up. I have since driven it around the block, didn't think it had any guts then either. I haven't spent much time on the engine at all, just getting into it now.

Did you tighten the domes down a little at a time evenly? And as you tighten, push the pin up and be sure pistons are dropping nicely all the way thru. Piston groove can have dirt that can hang it up also
Otherwise possibly the nozzles may not be centered.

Linda

Haven't had the domes off, but have checked and filled with light weight oil. I've replaced the fuel lines, and floats, gave the gas tank and lines a good cleaning, and new fuel pump.

Awhile back, I had adjusted the carbs with the synch, thought I had it adjusted fairly well, still no power, but have been all over the place since with the carbs and timing.

[Linda]

Might want to check compression.
On carbs I would spray with carb cleaner the fuel valves in the float bowl lids, check the carb screens for debris, make new fuel bowl gaskets, check float height, open up the domes and clean the pistons and carb bodies. And while carbs are open set nozzles to “ magic number” in Tech Wiki as a starting point. Then sync . oh be sure carbs are fastened to spacer blocks tight with no vacuum leaks. Carb parts, nozzles, needles, throttle plate bushings, etc could be worn. Check the nozzles for ovaling and oversize.
Of course I would do all that first to avoid the compression check hoping I got lucky. lol
Linda

[Gregs672000]

I agree with Linda, never hurts to start with the condition of the engine first. But I also noted the list of other cars you own, and then thought "gutless compared to what? A dual quad 427... ummm, YES!"

[2mAn]

Do these engines run if the distributor is 180 out?

Yes, there are two settings where the timing order is correct.
But if you are following any sort of workshop manual it is very wise to set up the distributor to the factory setting to avoid any misunderstandings
Not hard to do since the distributor drive gear is easily extracted and re-positioned to the correct orientation.
Just spin the oil pump drive shaft to the correct position an re-insert the drive gear as per the Workshop Manual.

Can you explain this a little more? Not to correct the 180 out, but how the car will respond when its 180 out? I believe this might be the issue with mine right now too. When I previously had it running VS how it is running now the wires are definitely 180 off from each other.