Verifying the wires on a VR, aftermarket

[Linda]

So this VR I have is supposed to work, but doesn’t seem to. It is not Nissan. It is new, mechanical. Supposed to be plug and play but it is not playing. Not ruling out another issue, but in any case how do you know which wire goes where? Anyone have one like it? Apparently there are no pin out diagrams that I can find.
Which wires are F, A, E, N.. Not going by color since colors may not match. No guessing.
One wire is yellow w white stripe, other is yellow.
Open up the box?
Thx
Linda

5E124869-674B-44C0-A7F1-0A7D044B6B85.jpeg

And yes, I know about internally regulated GM alternator for the right side, don’t want one , but may do it after I throw in the towel.

[Nissanman]

Try typing in the part number in your web browser.
It should bring up the item and info. on it

[JT68]

If you want to send it to me, I'll be glad to test it for free on my car. If it messes up my car's charging too you know its the regulator, if it functions normally, it isn't. Takes 5 minutes to test// JLMK- glad to do it. j

[Linda]

A generous but dangerous offer. Basically plug it in and see if it melts your wires? I would never ask that of anyone, sounds horrifying! No way, JT. Isn’t there a better way to determine the wires? Like whether a wire is near the cutoff regulator or something?
I checked the internet like Nissanman said and there is nothing. This is an IDI 29-0133, Japanese made, supposedly, regulator listed for a z, 510, Roadster and a few others. It is a simple device if you can verify the wires, without have to play watch for the smoke. Why don’t they provide pinouts or mark the wires? How hard is that? Crazy frustrating.
Instead of plug and play, it is plug and pray....( maniacal laugh)
Linda

[spl310]

Page 96 of the 1600 shop manual covers the regulator - it has testing procedures iirc.

[JT68]

A generous but dangerous offer. Basically plug it in and see if it melts your wires?

I appreciate your concern, but this really won't happen. You forget I'm also an EE. I'll confirm the primary connections and positions in the connector first.

Ground, B+ , F and N are most likely the correct colors if its for a 510. It would typically only melt wires if Ign, ground or B+ are reversed which I would verify first. I have lots of regulators i can compare it to.

Most likely it will simply over or under charge. If it's bad you spent 10$ in shipping and have the answer. Not much to lose.

[Linda]

Appreciate the info, JT, I would not want to be known as the gal who burned your harness up. I am sure it is very nice too!
Still would like to know how the average owner could test one of these things without plugging it in, starting and guessing wrong. Hopefully not requiring an EE degree or super fancy equipment!
Once verified the info could be posted to the Tech Wiki.
Apparently AutoZone etc can not test off the car either .
Shipping not a concern for this but again hoping for a fix I can do myself, since who knows what the next VR wire colors will be.
Thx
Linda
I see that the service manual explains general operation, adjustment and troubleshooting but unsure if wire location could be determined from the info, at least by me. Thx

[JT68]

Sometimes the best test method is to change the test method.

You could probably verify it from the old service manual if it was identical, but since it is aftermarket, and a later version, internally it is probably different from the old roadster version.

I don't think you are going to be able to troubleshoot a regulator if you don't have a good understanding of how it works.

[nismou20]

Linda, Is your car down cause of a reg? I can give you mine that’s just taking up space as I went GM.

[Linda]

If you have one to test with that would be great like JT is mentioning. Of course I bet wire colors are still different but the relative positions might point to the matching function.
I have a rudimentary understanding of how they work. One part of it adjusts the voltage and the other part cuts it off when it reaches the correct number. The contact points vibrate rapidly. One set starts out closed then opens, the other set is open and then closes. The points can get pitted but not in a new VR. Some recommend burnishing the points. The manual pages, referenced by sp310, mentioned that. Also what the specs should be too.Maybe with a bit more info you could deduce which wire was which by where it ended up. Don’t know.
Let’s try it Tom, then if it doesn’t work I can send the VR to JT if he promises not to risk his harness, but uses some other arcane method for testing the wire functions, that only EEs know about
Linda
PM sent

[JT68]

Trying it on your car makes sense too, except if your wiring is causing failures/intermittency/problems/messed up.

That's why I suggested changing the test method by testing the components independent of your car.

Certainly glad to test one or both regulators@ no charge-that would help narrow things down.

Glad to help, I promise no smoking will be involved lol// j

[Curtis]

I've never bothered to learn about the voltage regulator since I switched to an IR alternator but find this interesting.

So here's the wiring from the schematic. L, the lamp terminal is not used on ours.

ScreenHunter_48 Jan. 31 08.16.jpg

If you scroll down on this page it has a wiring diagram that's nice. Shows the wire colors from a 75 Z and has a lamp wire as well.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ ... index.html

I went and grabbed the two VR's that I have. The one on the left is one that came off my car and is electronic and sealed on the bottom. So no luck there. The one on the right is one I bought when I was having alternator trouble with the stock alternator. It had a tall cover so I'm thinking mechanical type. Drill out the cover rivets and nope, electronic. What puzzles me more is the one wire is not hooked up which goes to the A terminal. Hmm, probably was meant for a 510 or some other Datsun model.

Wires follow what I found with black, red and blue stripes.

IMG_2311[1].JPG

IMG_2312[1].JPG

[Linda]

Wiring configuration is correct EN FA..that plug looks like it is upside down ...right side has the indent like on the brush cover plate on an OE alt.
The white w blue stripe is the ign wire I believe there, the white w red is the L lamp which we don’t have.
Only on my VR there is a white w red (Lamp?) and a yellow w white stripe ( ignition?) to match up with the harness side plug ign wire.
The Tech Wike notes a 510 VR will work. Just have to get the wires correct. And be sure the rest of the system is OK..grounds etc
Linda