clutch and brakes ongoing

[mraitch]

That's why I suggested she 'bullet' her 'inquiries'~

[Lorna c]

Sorry was out of town. I didn't put a spring between the fork and slave. The pressure plate seems to have plenty pressure to push the slave back in. I like the light pressure on the clutch pedal. I have had the situation where there was clutch pressure on the clutch slave when it was fully retracted and for whatever reason the clutch slave kind of locked up and wouldn't actuate. It was fixed by just adjusting the adjuster nut a little bit to loosen it.
My pedal does have a slightly ovalized hole that Linda spoke about. I thought about bushing it, but that's as far as I got with it. It works fine as is and I assume if yours is the same it will also work fine (depending on how much it was ovalized).
Glad you got your working.
Rustbucket

my last slave didn't have one either . haha but I guess it don't matter much .. it seemed to move opposite without but it only needs to move I guess .. yeah all good here too . all running well .

[Linda]

Just get a clevis pin from Home Depot that fits in the hole and takes up the slack and you will notice the difference.
Linda

[Lorna c]

That's why I suggested she 'bullet' her 'inquiries'~

lol I'm just seeing these .. I thought I was ..haha .. it worked out like always . I somehow find my answers in all this mess. haha

[Lorna c]

THIS IS WRONG WRONG WRONG
This is for bleeding brakes not a clutch.
The clutch is gravity bleed....Just fill the M/C and crack the bleeder until you get some fluid.

Just air in the line. Not too hard to correct. Most easily done with two people.
1.Hook a clear hose to the bleed screw of the slave.
2.Make sure master reservoir is full.
3.Open slave bleed1/4 turn or so to just crack open
4.Have helper depress clutch pedal and hold down
5.Close slave bleed screw.
6.Have helper release clutch pedal.
7.Repeat steps 3-6 until no air comes out.
If you loop the clear hose up a little it is easier to see the air coming out.
You can achieve the same thing with gravity and without pumping the pedal, but it takes significantly longer.
Just be sure to keep that reservoir filled. If not you will have to start over again.
Rustbucket

I got it .. thanks !!

[Lorna c]

She already got speed bleeders.
Proving that few want to read the entire long thread, especially when there are 2 or more topics all mixed in...so stuff gets missed.
On the clutch pedal lever, see archives for why that ovaled hole is important. Some will weld it and redrill. Some will get a larger size clevis pin and fill the hole better.
It can and does make a difference to not have any slop in the pedal motion via a ovaled hole.
Linda

haha I hope I don't drive you too crazy . . .. really . I'm trying to conform . I'm just not there yet I guess . still .

[fj20spl311]

Lorna,
If you have a speed bleeder in the clutch slave, replace it with a standard bleeder. They are for the brakes also.

[Linda]

Why not speed bleeders for clutch slave, Phil? They have been recommended before. Just pump slowly til no bubbles and done. As opposed to just letting it drain?
Linda

[Lorna c]

Lorna,
If you have a speed bleeder in the clutch slave, replace it with a standard bleeder. They are for the brakes also.

I don't think I know what speed bleeders are now . I thought a speed bleeder was a bleeder I have . sounds like it's what's on the opening for bleeder valves where you bleed from ? the thing you twist to open it up to bleed ?? if so idk yet what one is thesn .. my phone's (or me) having issues on dropping the GB under 2 again so I can't get a picture to post yet .. I'll Google this speed bleeder and see what's up ..

[fj20spl311]

Why not speed bleeders for clutch slave, Phil? They have been recommended before. Just pump slowly til no bubbles and done. As opposed to just letting it drain?
Linda

The Master Cylinder is different for the clutch and the Brakes. The internals of the clutch master cylinder are such that the fluid that is displaced into the line and slave cylinder is required to return the piston when the clutch is released. When they are in good condition, the clutch Master cylinder piston will stay deep in the Master Cylinder if there is no fluid to return the psiton. This is why its a gravity bleed system and not a pump bleed system.


Speed Bleeder have a internal ball and spring the allows the fluid to flow out only while keeping air from flowing in to the system.

A small pressure bleeder is the best system.

[Lorna c]

ok so I definitely don't have a speed bleeder then . I have a vacuum hand held pump thing that you hook up under on the slave , pump it until there's vacuum pressure built up , then you crack the bleeder nut allow it to drain into the tube collecting into a container allong the hose line on vacuum pump while maintaining the vacuum pressure on gauge until bubbles are gone in line . then close bleader nut and remove vacuum hose off tip of it .. lines blead .. this isn't the speed bleader y'all are talking about I don't think .. I don't pump clutch using this method . I've tried using another method a couple years ago but I didn't like draining the top container all the time during trying to " chase the bubbles upwards" and out , feeding the brake fluid from below at slave . (messy) anyway I hope I'm bleeding it correctly now ? and all still holding and working properly .. thanks for all your help . AGAIN !

[Lorna c]

Ok now since I'm on brakes again but different parts I'm asking here so not to have more threads .

Well I've got a question ,
How tight is the pin supposed to be ? It's super snug . Its straight still . I put one brake (piston part ) together without oil on anything and I cant get it apart again. Ugh . It won't even spin / turn with tools so I'm assuming it won't function either .. any ideas how to separate the two . I was going to put it back on the car and push brakes , but I have the other one still disassembled so idk how I can do that idea .. any help out there would be appreciated please . ..

[Lorna c]

This pin

[Lorna c]

Ok ok . I give . . Idk . I ask it wrong ? Ok . I'll figure it out I guess . .

[spl310]

You can remove the piston with either hydraulic pressure - brake fluid or grease - or air pressure. You have to get the appropriate fitting to make it happen.