Front Brakes.

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bossbob
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Re: Front Brakes.

Post by bossbob »

Thanks notop, I'll work on that today. Can I get the pads out without removing the caliper, or should I take them apart again.

Linda, yes, that's why I'm sending you a bill for 1/2 the cost, you're the one that talked me into them.

Next thing I want to do is replace the 2 by pass hoses on the water tube, how should I proceed so that I don't take 2 steps forward and 14 steps backward? Looks like they are in there pretty tight.
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mraitch
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Re: Front Brakes.

Post by mraitch »

remove the pad retaining clip (10mm bolt- i think) and then pull pads with little tab attached. Don't bend or it might break and then you know what will follow!

For the two annoying hoses, could be a bit tricky

A) undo the brass/copper fitting at left end of water tube, that will allow you access to that hose.


The tube is held on by two u-clamps secured by 2 phillips screws each with typically somewhere from 7-9 mm nuts.on the backside. If you can undo, the tube will drop allowing you access to the right hand.

Personally, I have found it ultimately MUCH easier to remove the carbs. Initially slightly longer procedure, but ultimately less frustrating.

HTH
Peter Harrison
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Linda
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Re: Front Brakes.

Post by Linda »

Bossbob,
Re bill: good luck with that :D
Or, I get to drive your car 1/2 the time :)
Don't worry, I only drive 55 so should be stopping fine :smt006
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
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bossbob
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Re: Front Brakes.

Post by bossbob »

The Good...

Brakes are complete, sanded down the sides of the pads, I think I'm happy with the end results
Front end lubed, found all zerk's except the one for the e-brake
By-pass hoses on the water tubed replaced
Fresh coolant
Changed Trans oil

The Bad....

Brake fluid contaminated on the rear circuit, the fluid turned black from the bad rubber on the M/C cap
Thermostat isn't opening, and the engine is running hot
https://postimg.cc/nXKFfG2D
So, no maiden voyage this weekend.
I plan on replacing the Thermostat and Coolant cap, and need to source out caps for the brake M/C
68 Roadster 1600
70 Boss 302
65 K-Code Fastback
69 Mach 1 393 Stroker 5 spd
63.5 Galaxy Conv. 427 Dual Carb, 4 spd
72 Ranchero
65 GT Coupe
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Linda
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Re: Front Brakes.

Post by Linda »

If MC is going , might consider a early 510 master w adapter for line or a SS reline from Karp's..... As mentioned in Archives and Tech Wiki
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
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bossbob
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Re: Front Brakes.

Post by bossbob »

The MC is new, just the caps are old, and the rubber is super soft I may have found some at my local dealer. Will know for sure tomorrow when they come in.

But, now help me with my cooling issue. The car has been running at mid temp on the gauge every time I start it up. Now all of a sudden it's running near the top, but not boiling over or acting up. I pulled the thermostat and put it in a pot of hot water and verified that it's opening at 180 degrees. The only thing different is that I drained the cooling system so I could change out the 2 little by pass hoses at each end of the engine. Guess I'll put it back together and try again, see what happens.
68 Roadster 1600
70 Boss 302
65 K-Code Fastback
69 Mach 1 393 Stroker 5 spd
63.5 Galaxy Conv. 427 Dual Carb, 4 spd
72 Ranchero
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notoptoy
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Re: Front Brakes.

Post by notoptoy »

Typically, sudden changes in operating temperature, following a change in coolant means that you have introduced air into the system. Park the car with the nose up hill or on ramps, a curb, whatever to get the front end up. Repeatedly squeeze and release the lower radiator hose while going from cold to warmed up. The intent is to burp the air out. Once you get all the air out I'll bet your temp will stabilize.
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