New guy looking for help on what to buy or not buy.

[bossbob]

Hello everyone, I'm a new guy trying to re-live some good times. My first car was a 68 Roadster 1600 given to me by my grrandfather back in the 70's. Drove it through high school until it the trans went out. Been working on mustangs ever since.............

So, I was at a car show last month and saw the same car, same color, etc. and thought that would be a fun car to do and so the search began.

I'm looking at several cars, some are in boxes, some are somewhat complete but haven't run in 10+ years, some are running and just need body, paint, interior, etc. Anywhere from $1 - 6k

A 68 seems to be mostly there but will need everything, motor turns by hand. Been sitting 10 years.
A 67.5 low windshield completely apart, dash is apart and gauges are in a box, motor runs, needs valve cover, and windshield frame and glass, been
sitting a long time.
A 69 2000 with a 240sx motor in it, engine swap needs to be finished, guy say's it could be a 68 on a 69 frame, still needs cosmetics.
A 70 complete been sitting 15 years.............
A 67 running, broken windshield, needs cosmetics, but seller has shocks, brakes, rubber, to go with it has new tires and muffler $5k

My car was a 68, so I kind of lean that way, but as all of these are major projects and since I don't know squat about the roadsters, I thought I would ask for your input. I've been reading quite a bit of the buyers guide here. But really wandering how hard it is to get the windshield frame if I go for the 67.5.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can share.

[spags1986]

If you go with a low windshield I have a spare frame.

I think it depends on how much work you want to do and how soon you want to be on the road. The 67's low windshields are a little more desirable and I believe have a better resale value. Just reading your short descriptions the last one, for 5K sounds like it is possibly the best buy. That rubber kit is not cheap and if it runs you can drive it while you restore it.

[notoptoy]

Since I believe everything is repairable, I would look to your skill set first and budget second. Personally I don't want to mess with any body work, especially RUST - so I would look for rust free or minimal body work first. I am capable of doing any drive train stuff so I am OK with any of that- short of a seized block or obviously worn U20 timing chains (EXPENSIVE) as long as it's at least mostly complete. I am not skilled in interior work, so that would weigh in as important, but last on my list of needs. Your method may vary. I do believe that you can get a quite nice 1600 for 5-6K - complete and running, driving and stopping. Beyond that it's up to as much or as little as you can afford. Always lean towards the most you can afford.

[fj20spl311]

Sound like you must be close to SOCAL as the list sound familiar. LOL
Buy the best you can afford....it cost 2-3X to repair as compared to buying usually.
There is a world of difference in driving a low and high windshield cars. if you are near 6', I would suggest driving a low windshield first.
Roadster are kind of addicting, so its most likely not going to be your last......LOL

The red 2000 with the KA has '69 front marker lights and the other in the pictures has '70 marker lights.
You should post your location in your signature or avatar.

[bossbob]

Yep, I'm in SoCal, in the Corona area. And yes those are 2 of the cars I'm looking at. I'm currently 6'1 but feel I'm getting shorter and fatter.......... never sat in a low windshield car so, hope the top of the frame isn't in my line of view.

Thanks for the feed back.

[Pjackb]

I'm talking with someone in SoCal that I think has what you're looking for
Pm me your email and I'll put you in touch
This is the last message he sent me about it

"Jack
It’s a 1969 2000 roadster in White never color changed but has been painted it’s a scruffy runner but super straight and rustfree floors are mint. She goes very well and stops ok except brakes are pulling to the right. The transmission and clutch are smooth as silk the instruments work except fuel gauge. Dash is pretty awful door panels good and seats are okay biggest problem is the softtop frame is missing.
My asking price is $5,900
regards Steve"

[AidanDawn2000]

from memory I'd say anyone over 5'11 is going to be looking strait into the frame but i haven't sat in one for a while...

[AC77]

I would agree with that. I'm 5'9"-10" and I don't have much of a problem, but if I was a little taller, I think I would. The PO of my car was 6'1"-3" and he didn't drive it much due to his height. I think you need to sit in one to know for sure.

[jamesw]

I agree with what Phil said - buy the best that you can afford. If you are in SoCal you are going to be lucky and have a lot of cars to choose from. Besides here and craigslist also check Ebay.

You should get a '60 2000 so that you can fit with the top up. You'll also want a 2000 if you get a 1600 (just my opinion).

Things that are important:

No rust on the front of rocker panels under inner fenders
No rust behind rear wheels
Floorpans good where they connect to the firewall. Especially under the pedals and brake fluid had a tendency to run down there.
Frame not rusted
Check in trunk to make sure weight of gas tank has not cracked the trunk floor
Check that the timing chain is not loose and hasn't cut into the "evil L"
If engine runs listen to it at startup at the front for chain rattle
Check for overheating - shoot the thermostat housing with an IR laser thermometer if gauge not working. You want 180

Things that aren't as important:

Brakes - replacement caliper pistons readily available
Chrome: can be re-chromed
Gauges working (there are plenty of good 69 gauges available here or on ebay)
Soft top or seats - if they are old or ripped it's not very hard or expensive to get replacements from the vendors
Dash: just apply a dash cap if it's ugly and drive it - they look fine.

HTH
James

[inline4]

Sound like you must be close to SOCAL as the list sound familiar. LOL
Buy the best you can afford....it cost 2-3X to repair as compared to buying usually.
There is a world of difference in driving a low and high windshield cars. if you are near 6', I would suggest driving a low windshield first.
Roadster are kind of addicting, so its most likely not going to be your last......LOL

The red 2000 with the KA has '69 front marker lights and the other in the pictures has '70 marker lights.
You should post your location in your signature or avatar.

the 68/69 and 70 are mine, but I only technically advertised the KA car. they've been in storage for a while. the title lists it as a 68, so I'm thinking it was re-bodied at some point in its life or possibly late 68 that had the requirements for 69.

I originally was going to complete the KA car first, because the motor was shot, the body didn't need much work, and I had the KA parts. plus it's a 2000
the 70 has a pounded out passenger inner fender as the main reason why I didn't start with that car, not horrible but I wanted to start a swap.

edit:

I sent Bob a detailed email of what needs to be done to complete the car, based on what was needed with my 510, it sounds like it's a bit too much to chew, which would lead me to think the basket case 67.5 on San Diego Craigslist will be too much to handle too. if he's going to spend 6k on a roadster, he might as well spend another 1.5k and buy that white one on CL, but then he would probably want to repaint, which would add more to the figure if his original car wasn't white.

it sounds like based on what he's asking, he'll end up spending the same amount on a car regardless, but he needs to find one with the best looking trim bits. or the best looking project.

Here's a copy of the title for the KA car. I don't know when the cutoffs for the 67.5 and 69 are. anyone know?

[bakerjf]

I'd only add that coming from a background in mustangs, I think you'll find the level of commitment in time, effort, and money to restore and maintain a Roadster to be on an entirely different level. Go into it with your eyes wide open. There are no OPG-type catalogs, or otherwise any companies falling over themselves to spoon-feed an owner involved in a restoration. Many of the parts on these cars, especially the 2000, are Porsche-expensive...for a car at the end of the road will still only bring Datsun-money.
On the plus side, except for maybe an old beetle, if there is an easier car to work on I haven't come across it yet. Also, this Forum is probably one of the best out there for an owner/enthusiast to get help along the way.
If you're determined to get a Roadster I'd agree with the others who recommend buying the very best one you can afford. I'd really push that number out as far as you can - even if you need to go in the hole some - you'll be glad your did.

[fj20spl311]

@inline4
Using the VIN, your KA car SRL31109871 is a 69. It would be nice if All your cars were added to the registry. It can be corrected at the DMV to a 69 when the title is transferred to the "NEW" owner.

[RCMike]

from memory I'd say anyone over 5'11 is going to be looking strait into the frame but i haven't sat in one for a while...

Not entirely true.. what matters here is if the seat straps are too tight, or if the seats are overstuffed.. both of those raise the occupant. Miata seats or similar will stick you up in the wind.. but I have been very happy driving low windshield cars on ling trips, as long as everything is properly broken in..

[Linda]

There are lots of pics of owners driving so you can see how it looks.
Linda

[oppositeLock]

I'd be inclined to get something that's drivable (or at least running) so you get a better idea of what needs to be fixed / replaced.