Road trip to bring back my first roadster

[msampsel]

I went after market on both. Still work fine after a year or so. No complaints

[Manu]

I went after market on both. Still work fine after a year or so. No complaints

Ok thank you for the feedback.

[AidanDawn2000]

Any advice against going aftermarket for Master or Slave Cylinders?
Looking at them on datsunparts.com

I'm using both the of them, purchased from datsunparts.com . SC is perfect. On the MC you need to twist out the tank and (looking at your stock one for reference) cut about 3/4in off the bottom so the hood will close nicely. Also swap the old lever arm thing off your old MC or the pedal might be to high.

[Manu]

Ok thanks Aidan.

Did the bleed this evening and clutch is working again. Process was quick and simple with a friend helping with the pedal. Slip point (not sure that’s the right word in English) is still pretty high though. The old fluid that came out was very dark.

SC has a slow leak where the rubber seal meets the metal. How can I be sure I order the right part, is the number on the part itself?

Thanks!

[Linda]

The part number is not on the part, see the Tech Wiki Parts Interchange for aftermarket parts numbers. Listed is the AutoZone Duralast 10030 slave.
Probably will need a new hose, or at least an idea to check
Try to clean off the oil and dirt if you can so that you can see leaks and not contaminate anything.
Great peace of mind to have a good clutch!
Linda

[Manu]

Thanks everyone. New SC coming in the mail tomorrow.

Now I need to replace those broken exhaust mounts.
Linda, you mentioned in this old thread that you found them on Ebay? http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=7849

[Linda]

Yes, since that post I got some mounts off eBay ( type in exhaust mounts to match up), a flex pipe from AutoZone, to keep the stock size, a used header, better gaskets, refurbed the resonator by painting, and getting it welded, and added a VW megaphone tip cut to Roadster dimensions...
Linda

[Manu]

Ok so I think the exhaust will have to wait.
My mechanic just told me my front brake calipers are leaking and rotors too thin and all need replacement. I need to stop by his shop to check everything with him today...

edit: just found this thread about resleeving http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ve#p158940
could that be an alternative to buying new calipers?

[notoptoy]

Resleeving is an excellent alternative, but a bit pricey. Plus side, more durable and less prone to pitting and rust - should be the last time you ever have to mess with or worry about a cylinder bore (May still need to replace the rubber bits from time to time.) Downside, time to get the repairs made, send out for rework, and time waiting without the car versus buy new - it's quicker to just by new stock parts. Cost, about equal to slightly less to buy new versus resleeve, but with a resleeve it will last longer.

[Manu]

Resleeving is an excellent alternative, but a bit pricey. Plus side, more durable and less prone to pitting and rust - should be the last time you ever have to mess with or worry about a cylinder bore (May still need to replace the rubber bits from time to time.) Downside, time to get the repairs made, send out for rework, and time waiting without the car versus buy new - it's quicker to just by new stock parts. Cost, about equal to slightly less to buy new versus resleeve, but with a resleeve it will last longer.

Oh I thought re-sleeve was cheaper. The quotes Mike mentioned in the resleeve thread were about $80/caliper for sleeve & complete rebuilt. Whereas the prices I found for 2 new full calipers on datsunparts is $394.
Am I missing something?

[pebbles]

Disassemble the calipers and check for wear and pitting. If they are in good shape, a polish and seal kit may get back in the drivers seat.

[notoptoy]

I believe the $80 is per caliper half, so there are 4 of them, $240 versus $397 - so yes, cheaper on the surface. I am not sure what that resleeving covers, if it is just sleeving, or does it include the rubber parts - for a drop in ready caliper? That is what you get with new. If you can get that price complete and have the time that is good and a better option. When I looked around the East Coast (Apple Hydraulics and White Post Restorations) it was closer to $100 per caliper half, plus the rubber bits.

[Linda]

Here is my experience:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... hilit=Karp
Nice to resleeve so that no water can affect cylinders again.
I would first get a second opinion . Clean off area of brakes well to establish leaks. Check hoses and bleeders, could be leaking there.
Is your brake pedal soft or do you have good braking? Losing any fluid?
Linda

[Manu]

Disassemble the calipers and check for wear and pitting. If they are in good shape, a polish and seal kit may get back in the drivers seat.

I would love that to be the case!

I believe the $80 is per caliper half, so there are 4 of them, $240 versus $397 - so yes, cheaper on the surface. I am not sure what that resleeving covers, if it is just sleeving, or does it include the rubber parts - for a drop in ready caliper? That is what you get with new. If you can get that price complete and have the time that is good and a better option. When I looked around the East Coast (Apple Hydraulics and White Post Restorations) it was closer to $100 per caliper half, plus the rubber bits.

True. I reached out to Karps to get a quote and turnaround time.

Here is my experience:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... hilit=Karp
Nice to resleeve so that no water can affect cylinders again.
I would first get a second opinion . Clean off area of brakes well to establish leaks. Check hoses and bleeders, could be leaking there.
Is your brake pedal soft or do you have good braking? Losing any fluid?
Linda

Pedal was not soft. Did not seem to be loosing any fluid, but I might not have not been noticing it.

Thank you all for the advice. There's a lot of info here and lots of ways to address this brake issue it seems!
I'll first have to look at the brakes myself, clean/disasemble, post pictures here and try to locate the origin of the leak(s) together!

[Manu]

I can only pick up Ruby tomorrow morning. I'll update you guys when I see her.

You were right Notoptoy! (sorry I don't know all your real names yet) - here is Karps' quote:
5-10 days in the shop, $243 to stainless steel sleeve and rebuild each caliper.
$486 total for both wheels so about $100 more than new calipers.