Mothra SR20DE Swap in Florida

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bobd
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by bobd »

It's a big hole, larger than any of the existing holes. I used the Wiring Specialties harness.

Image
'69 1600 with SR20DE
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Bigtaku
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Bigtaku »

bobd wrote: Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:30 am It's a big hole, larger than any of the existing holes. I used the Wiring Specialties harness.

Image
Nice photo Bob, I also have the Wiring Specialties harness. My Vintage Air sits right behind where you go thru the fire wall it looks like. I ended up drilling a hole in the center lower part. Note to people using the Subaru Justy Alt, Let the folks making your harness know before you order the harness. Not a big thing but it's one more thing to do that wasn't necessary with better planning.
Michael Montez
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Bigtaku »

IMG_0467_Moment.jpg
IMG_0468_Moment.jpg
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Yesterday started out quite well with setting up the wiring harness. Then as I began plugging in the reverse plug I saw that it was hitting the tunnel. Also the frame cut-out is really close to the passenger side oil pan. Probably too close. Looks like I will need to cut out more before I proceed.
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Michael Montez
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Bigtaku
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Bigtaku »

Does anyone have a photo of the clearance they have with their oil pan passenger side or know what the clearance is?
Michael Montez
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bobd
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by bobd »

I try not to overthink things like that. If I remember correctly, a hammer, long punch, and a pry bar were involved.
'69 1600 with SR20DE
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RCMike
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by RCMike »

Probably won't help, but I had this picture in my phone..
Screen Shot 2018-10-02 at 1.11.38 AM.png
.
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sfdaugherty
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by sfdaugherty »

Michael: The location of the penetration for the ECU harness depends on the location of your ECU. For most, mounting the ECU on the passenger side makes sense. I have mine on the driver's side due to my Vintage Air Gen IV Magnum evaporator, Ron Francis fan controller, and my Infinitybox Mastercell and wifi on the passenger side. The hole needed to pass the ECU connector through is about 2" so it is a VERY big hole. I located my penetration in the center above the transmission tunnel. I originally just cut the huge hole and ran the harness through but, with the tight clearances, the 1" or larger harness (about 48 wires) is hard to manage under the dash (in my case routing around brake and clutch pedals is a pain) so I cut my harness and installed Deutch bulkhead connectors (HDP20) so that I can disconnect my harness at the firewall and I don't have to pass the ECU connector through the firewall. The Deutch connectors are waterproof (up to about 30 feet) so my firewall is much more airtight than before. Deutch connectors require a 1.75" hole and I have three of them . . . a 47 pin (20 gauge and 14 gauge) for the ECU, and two 29 pin (12 gauge, 16 gauge, and 20 gauge) for the ECU overflow for all other wires.

Shannon
69 2000 SRL311-10088 (Type 4 Solexes)
68 SR20DE SPL311-18735 (SR20DE S15 Autech)
68 2000 SRL311-01179 (Restoration underway)
68 1600 SPL311-20462 SOLD! After 41 years in the family
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Bigtaku
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Bigtaku »

RCMike wrote: Tue Oct 02, 2018 3:13 am Probably won't help, but I had this picture in my phone..

Screen Shot 2018-10-02 at 1.11.38 AM.png

.
How much clearance do you think you have in inches? I have about 1/4 inch.
Michael Montez
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Bigtaku
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Bigtaku »

sfdaugherty wrote: Tue Oct 02, 2018 7:15 am Michael: The location of the penetration for the ECU harness depends on the location of your ECU. For most, mounting the ECU on the passenger side makes sense. I have mine on the driver's side due to my Vintage Air Gen IV Magnum evaporator, Ron Francis fan controller, and my Infinitybox Mastercell and wifi on the passenger side. The hole needed to pass the ECU connector through is about 2" so it is a VERY big hole. I located my penetration in the center above the transmission tunnel. I originally just cut the huge hole and ran the harness through but, with the tight clearances, the 1" or larger harness (about 48 wires) is hard to manage under the dash (in my case routing around brake and clutch pedals is a pain) so I cut my harness and installed Deutch bulkhead connectors (HDP20) so that I can disconnect my harness at the firewall and I don't have to pass the ECU connector through the firewall. The Deutch connectors are waterproof (up to about 30 feet) so my firewall is much more airtight than before. Deutch connectors require a 1.75" hole and I have three of them . . . a 47 pin (20 gauge and 14 gauge) for the ECU, and two 29 pin (12 gauge, 16 gauge, and 20 gauge) for the ECU overflow for all other wires.

Shannon
Thank you, I am learning as I go here. I really like the HDP20 set up.
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RCMike
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by RCMike »

At which point? I have a little clearance everywhere..
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Bigtaku »

RCMike wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 4:17 pm At which point? I have a little clearance everywhere..
The forward part of the passenger side oil pan to the cut out of the frame.
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Bigtaku »

I plan on using 1/4 inch body bushings to lift the body away from the frame for clearance on the transmission tunnel and rear shocks. It may need to use layers of bushings to get my desired look and clearance. pictures on the way when I get them in.
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Bigtaku
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Bigtaku »

Anyone know or remember what they used for their clutch line on the SR20DE S14? Having trouble figuring out what size to get...ugh
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Ed Mason
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Ed Mason »

I believe the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic hose for the sr20 clutch is a 10mm-1.0 thread. So you need a 10mm-1.0 metric steel inverted flare tubing nut to connect to slave cylinder hose. On clutch master side, if you are using a Roadster master I believe it is a 3/8-24 sae. If you are using a metric clutch master which is what I used it is a 10mm-1.0. I went down to Auto Zone and bought pre made lengths of 3/16 tubing with 10-1.0 metric nuts from the slave hose to the master. I routed my clutch tubing underneath the engine between the oil pan and transmission. If you are using a sae master which has the 3/8-24 fitting you can buy a 3/16x 8"tubing adaptor with 10-1.0 nut on one side and 3/8-24 on the other and use a union to connect it. If you route your tubing under the engine like I did, do not attach the tubing on the engine because of engine movement. The hydraulic slave hose allows movement of the engine. Please correct any mis information I may have used. Hope this helps.
Ed Mason
1967 SRL311-00515
1967.5 1600 sr20det s14 swap
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Bigtaku
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Re: SR20DE Swap in Florida

Post by Bigtaku »

Ed Mason wrote: Wed Oct 10, 2018 3:37 pm I believe the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic hose for the sr20 clutch is a 10mm-1.0 thread. So you need a 10mm-1.0 metric steel inverted flare tubing nut to connect to slave cylinder hose. On clutch master side, if you are using a Roadster master I believe it is a 3/8-24 sae. If you are using a metric clutch master which is what I used it is a 10mm-1.0. I went down to Auto Zone and bought pre made lengths of 3/16 tubing with 10-1.0 metric nuts from the slave hose to the master. I routed my clutch tubing underneath the engine between the oil pan and transmission. If you are using a sae master which has the 3/8-24 fitting you can buy a 3/16x 8"tubing adaptor with 10-1.0 nut on one side and 3/8-24 on the other and use a union to connect it. If you route your tubing under the engine like I did, do not attach the tubing on the engine because of engine movement. The hydraulic slave hose allows movement of the engine. Please correct any mis information I may have used. Hope this helps.
Thanks Ed.
Michael Montez
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