SPL311 17277

[Ralph]

OK ... lean out the mixture...thanks Ross.
How long does it take the plugs to change colour? (idle or run-time...miles?)

[sports imports]

You can clean them with some brake clean or carb cleaner and a toothbrush. Make sure you check the gap before installing back into the head. Color should change after a good run but best to start with clean plugs.

Ross

[Ralph]

Ok...thanks, Ross. I will let you know how it turns out

[Ralph]

Valve gaps checked and adjusted cold, leaned out the mixture right to the "stop" position...no RPM change.
Went for a spin, got half a block and it felt like it was running out of gas...checked fuel level with a dip stick and have about 2" or so showing. Will add fuel and try again....my driveway is pretty steep leaving. Maybe there was enough "slosh" to create the problem.

[Ralph]

I see Stacey Wilber seems to be having a similar high idle issue...I'll try the diagnostics on that thread.

[Ralph]

Here is what the wires look like going in to the alternator ... and inside. I know this will be beyond me, so I'll need to "call a friend". I'll see if my mechanic friend is up to the re-wire, or take it to my local automotive electric shop ... or do the GM alternator upgrade now.

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[garth]

Here is what the wires look like going in to the alternator ... and inside. I know this will be beyond me, so I'll need to "call a friend". I'll see if my mechanic friend is up to the re-wire, or take it to my local automotive electric shop ... or do the GM alternator upgrade now.

IMG_20170424_204636.jpgIMG_20170424_204721.jpgIMG_20170424_204712.jpg

Ralph, What does your alternator not do?

If it was charging and you just want to make it more reliable?

Take the brushes out and wash all the dirt and carbon out with varsol. Blow it dry with air and sit it out in the warm Okanagan sun for a few afternoons. Check the bearings for "slop" Check the both the field and main windings to make sure you don't have a ground R> 1 Meg Ohm. Check the diodes to see if they all conduct in the positive direction and withstand voltage in the negative (reverse). Replace any bad lead wires with similar. Crimped connections with heat shrink tubing is better than solder and taping. Replace the brushes with new. And your alternator will survive another 50 years.

[sports imports]

Easy for the electrical engineer to say......

Ross

[Ralph]

The problem is that two of the four wires going in to the alternator have snapped....so I need to reconnect them. Alternator was doing fine till this.

[garth]

The problem is that two of the four wires going in to the alternator have snapped....so I need to reconnect them. Alternator was doing fine till this.

Take pictures or make a diagram of how you found it. If it is just the leads from the alternator connection it should be pretty easy to identify what the wires connect to.

I will be up in the Okanagan on the long weekend in May but you probably want to be on the road before then.

Your local auto electric shop cany help with a quick id and repair too.

Good luck.

[Ralph]

Took it to my auto electric guy and I hear he does great work but is really backed up. Seriously contemplating a replacement

[Lorna c]

I'm in the same boat . If I find what they are in the book here next I'll let u know ...

[Lorna c]

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I don't know what it says yet . But hope it helps . Now I need to figure out how and what wires need to be here on this new one I got .

[Ralph]

Ross sent up a loaner alternator and has coached me through the replacement of it and the female plug the alternator plugs into. Easy peasy..right? Not so much. Again. When I dis-assembled the old plug I failed to make note of which wires went where ... ASSuming ... that the colours would be really easy to see & match up. Long story short, I was able to dig through the wiring harness wrap and find the colours, get continuity and thought I had it the plug put together correctly. Plugged it all in, attached the battery and ... the VR went click. Disattached the battery. Click again. Reconnect click. Voltage readings car off, alternator not plugged in to VR 12.95; Voltage readings car off, alternator plugged in to VR 12.89; Voltage readings car at idle, alternator plugged in to VR 16.8 & rising; Voltage readings car at idle, alternator not plugged in to VR 13.93 & dropping; Voltage readings car on, increase revs, alternator plugged in to VR 16.9 and rising with revs. My lay-person brain figures 1) I've re-wired the female plug connector wrong, 2) the VR is bad 3) there is a short in the harness. I have a few chores to complete and a hockey game to watch ... so any comments are welcome. Ross, thanks for all the step-by step help so far... kinda feeling like a dolt for not mapping that original plug. Lesson learned. I'm going to watch some hockey now.

[Ralph]

Dolt booboo diagnosed. When I reassembled the connector I inserted two of the wires in the wrong spot. To diagnose I hooked things up like this...(probably tricky to see)

alternator Connector 3.jpg

alternator Connector 2.jpg

alternator Connector 1.jpg

and as I did the connections I heard no clicking of the VR.
New volt readings are at idle 14.19 ish and steady; hi to mid revs up to 14.71 is and stays there; with load (lights & fan on) at idle 13.4 ish and with revs about the same and steady. I gave Ross a quick shout to confirm the readings are OK...and they are. Big thanks for the phone support & easy access to parts!
Tonight I'll finalize things and hopefully get her out for a long-ish spin.